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soc reset

9K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  retepsnikrep 
#1 ·
I'm waiting on my OBDIIC&C to come in here on my end, just wondering if there is another way to reset soc after a grid charge, i understand if i pull fuse # 18 under the dash it should reset, i havn't had any luck getting it to work... is there a certain way i should be doing it for the car to recognize correctly upon start up?

thanks
-steveo
 
#4 ·
If I am looking at the correct fuse panel under the drivers side dash, just above the kick panel, how do you see any numbers? I don't see anything identifying each fuse.

Now I did find the IMA fuse in the engine bay and that was #18, didn't do anything tho.
How can I reset my SoC without purchasing more things? Would like to pull a fuse and not disconnect the battery to save my radio memory.
 
#6 ·
Trying to get it to the top after a charge isn't going to happen by pulling a fuse or the 12v. The car will be at zero and it will charge until it detects it is full. Of course this is a problem with your non-standard pack.

OBDIIC&C is your best bet.
 
#8 ·
If you are running a lithium pack and a BCM interceptor your SOC should be fixed at 19 bars anyway if it is set up correctly. The whole point of the BCM interceptor was to fake 19 bars soc at all times unless the lithium pack was exhausted.

Your independent BMS should be telling you what the actual lithium battery soc is.
 
#9 ·
After my grid charge, I pulled fuse 18 (used OM to determine which one), replaced fuse,and drove the car for about 10 minutes. Soc re-established itself indicating 'full' battery. No need to rev engine to 3500 (as when pulling 12 v terminal). bty: OM indicated fuse 18 was lighting even though it was really soc indication.??

..Bob
 
#10 ·
I just go out to the car with my lunchbox, turn the key ahead, go back in to get my laptop and morning drink of choice, kiss the wife and go back out to the car. By the time I get there it will be at 19 bars. Every time. I have my charger set to 169v. I think if it sees 168 or more for 2 minutes it does a positive recal. (on mine anyway)

(Sometimes) I just leave the key ahead and while plugged in the SOC creeps up on its own. This works good on 1 hour waits. (outlets are everywhere)

I have an 8amp charger up to 165v then a 700ma charger to take it to 169. So it only takes me an hour to charge it back up. (if it is not super hot out - then I just don't charge)

Once I accidentally left the key ahead overnight. When I got to the car the 20th bar was lit. It took FOREVER to drop to the 19th bar. I liked it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
.... I have my charger set to 169v. I think if it sees 168 or more for 2 minutes it does a positive recal. (on mine anyway)....I have an 8amp charger up to 165v then a 700ma charger to take it to 169. So it only takes me an hour to charge it back up. (if it is not super hot out - then I just don't charge)....
What you do defies my understanding of the battery and charging. Maybe you're not trying to fully charge the battery? Correct me if I'm wrong, but in general people do try to charge the battery to full with grid charging, and that takes a higher voltage than 169V; I thought it was about 177V, such as 'set the grid charger to 177V unloaded'? Using the car's system I can consistently charge up to 168V. I've seen 170V at very low input amps, less than 2 amps, maybe as low as 0.3 amps... I assume this isn't full, but rather, what Honda determined to be about 75% SoC. What voltage does a fully charged battery settle at after a grid charge, after maybe an hour or two?

When I cycled my sticks, average voltage at delta V was 9.2V at 5.5 amps. That's 184 volts for the whole pack. Not sure what it settled down to though, after some time...
 
#11 ·
I ended up pulling the #16 fuse under the hood, it's a bigger fuse, not one of the mini ones. I checked out the manual that is available for download and it mentioned either #16 under hood or #18 under the dash. I still couldn't figure out which fuse was which under there unless I am missing a cover under the dash or something.

Thanks for the help. I will probably pick up a "soc reset" switch in the future some time.
 
#12 ·
Fuse function and location is printed on the back of the fold out tray/ cubby hole door. IIRR.

Willie
 
#19 ·
Rush, there are several people who have done this. It works fine. I always planned on it, but it was easier to just do what diamondlarry says and leave the car on with a 12V charger hooked up. ;)

It's pretty much a novelty, though there is probably some real value in having the SoC read 100.0%.

That BCM Gauge video is very old with a very early version of the software, the BCM never reads 100% like that normally unless grid charged.

Picture taken at 1:42PM, a bit after the grid charge was started:


This was taken at 5:12PM:


So it took 3 hours and 30 minutes for the SoC to move by ~16% @ ~350mA, or ~76.5mAh/percent. Interesting.
 
#20 ·
Ok, Didn't know that, thanks for setting me straight.

So then the 100% means 100% of *whatever Honda has decided that the max usable is*, correct? Is that also the same for 90%, 80%, etc.? Confusing... Now we have to specify what SOC definition we are using, right? :rolleyes:
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
Thanks Eli. I could not find that one. That is what I meant by "tap into the BCM".

The power supply that runs my fan can probably power the BCM up too thus eliminating the need for waiting 2 min. or dealing with the drag charge in the morning. The first thing I do when driving out of the garage is climb a hill.
 
#23 · (Edited)
SOC Reset after grid charge.

Powering the BCM is OK but there are number of caveats and gotcha's.

1) Why bother and just use an OBDIIC&C or Mike's SOC reset device to set the soc to 19 bars when you come out to the car in the morning after a grid charge. That takes about ten seconds.

2) If you decide to power the BCM overnight you must power it up before you turn on the charger or it will not count the current correctly.

3) Powering the BCM independently of the rest of the car electrics is best done by adding some diodes to it's 12v power feed wires and connecting an approx 1A 12v power supply on the BCM side of those diodes. Otherwise you end up powering up the whole car/ignition system. The car consumes quite a bit of 12v power when sat with just the ignition on (around 200w estimate) as we all know from how fast the 12V battery dies when the dc-dc converter is not working.
The IMA will also likely be energised and the DC-DC converter :? which means you waste a lot of the power in those systems as well.
I suggest someone uses a smart plug to count the KWH consumed by leaving the car turned on all night versus the BCM powered alone and versus just powering the grid charger and reseting the soc in the morning.
 
#24 ·
Sure keeping the BCM powered up will record all the charging and indicate full in the morning, it will work no mater which charger you use.

My system disconnects the in car 12V from the fan circuit on both the + and - sides so the fact than my - 12 V fan power is also common with the HV ground is not an issue.
It is floating relative to the chassis and -12V ground.
If you try to run the BCM with the same 12V, then it is an issue, as the HV then gets connected to chassis ground.
A separate isolated 12V wall wart to power the BCM, and a couple of diodes and you can record the charge and will not require a reset, but as Peter says, it is not a big deal to do it through the OBDII port so why add the complexity?
I have also found that if the last SOC the BCM saw when you power off before the charge was < half scale, that the reset to full can happen on it's own when the car is turned back on.
 
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