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Old 12-17-2012, 12:26 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Gorgeous car, quality thread, great information, thank you.

My system is a crappy Alpine driving two Polk MMC6500s in the doors, two 6.5 do-nothing woofers in the rear, and a home audio powered sub in the front passenger footwell, driven from a 300w inverter. I know, I'm crazy, but... lol, it's enough to keep me from going truly crazy while I deal with crappy traffic in 1.5hrs commuting every weekday.
Yes, that's a little crazy, considering you're converting DC to AC and back to DC to create an AC waveform....

You deserve MUCH better, esp with a commute like that. A self-powered sub would be WAY better and installation is simple. This one from Kicker has a 10" driver and an integrated 90-watt amp. I prefer a wedge shape over the tube-style enclosures because it's stable on its own and requires relatively little space. Until I complete my custom sub enclosure, I'm running the Kicker 10" ported wedge box and it's pretty decent.

Despite the lofty marketing-driven power claims of most manufacturers (like 50W), typical head-unit power output is honestly about 15 watts per channel RMS. Taking it further requires a 4-channel external amplifier. This gives you the flexibility to run it bridged in a 2-channel configuration to power a coaxial set or component set using passive crossovers, run it in a 3-channel bridged configuration to power door speakers plus a sub, or better yet... run an active setup with one speaker per channel (requiring a pre-amp crossover). A 2-channel amp severely limits your choices unless it's dedicated for subwoofer duty.

I'm extremely happy with Arc Audio's mini series. The ArcAudio KS125.4 mini sounds great and powers my front stage (woofer/tweeter pairs) perfectly with one speaker per channel. It's small enough to go almost anywhere, including under the seats, and in my case, paired up with the 500.1 sub amp in the shoebox area. They aren't cheap, but they don't sound like it either. I found mine in the DIYMA classifieds forum with a mix of good timing and patience.

Get rid of the rear speakers. Friends don't let friends have rear-fill. A good car system focuses on the front stage if sound quality is interesting. It might sound counter-intuitive to get better sound from fewer speakers, but trust me on this. A vehicle's interior is a complicated space that poses many challenges to get good sound from.

The Pioneer DEH-PRS80 is a solid foundation head unit and will get you onboard EQ/crossovers for an active front stage at a good price. To get better, you have to spend twice or more. I'm still sort of fighting the urge just to get this head unit for my setup, but I want that P99RS anyways.

The components I listed here add up to $930. Add a decent set of component door speakers for another $200 and now you have the basis for a relatively simple system that will blow away what the Insight came with and make your car something you actually enjoy listening to.
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:23 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Replacing the springs and dampers was quite the project digression, but that's mostly finished now so this is back on track. I decided to move the crossover to under the passenger seat from it's perch on the battery unit enclosure in the rear hatch. I wanted it closer to the amps to cut down on RCA cables, but later on this crossover will be swapped for an Audison Bit One DSP, and it will be much more convenient to access the USB port for tuning this way.

Here's some head-unit harness action that I worked on last night:


This fixed all the installation slop from previous owners. The harness looks kind of thin because I removed all the speaker wires (8 total) and others from the Alpine's connector and the oem harness connector since they aren't used at all. The only 2 wires used on the oem connector is the ACC and illumination/dimmer, so they were the only ones invited to remain.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:42 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Head-unit's cables are finally up to standards. I moved the Alpine bluetooth module to the far right of the dash. There's a nice little unused pocket of space there perfect for an alarm system cpu or similar. There's a weld spot towards the left of the frame tube that I strapped my wiring bundle to that had a really sharp, jagged edge that my thumb found... a system is never quite complete unless I bleed from it.





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Old 02-04-2013, 12:23 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Fantastic wiring harness you created there!
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:44 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Fantastic wiring harness you created there!
Thanks! It takes a bit more time to put together than the sloppy version, but I like knowing that it will never be a problem down the road, especially if I don't have a fire extinguisher handy.

Next up... a component mounting panel for under the passenger seat.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:57 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Great project, and nice execution!

Did you have any trouble with removing the plastics around the original head unit?

My oem radio stopped working with the cassette tape adapter, (or any cassettes for that matter) . will have to find a cheap used one and replace it...
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:40 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Great project, and nice execution!

Did you have any trouble with removing the plastics around the original head unit?

My oem radio stopped working with the cassette tape adapter, (or any cassettes for that matter) . will have to find a cheap used one and replace it...
Thank you. My new DSP (Audison Bit One) arrived today. This replaces my crossover since the DSP does that function plus EQ and time alignment. I don't intend to enter sound quality competition, but all the hardware is now present to do so.

The panel surrounding the head unit (center panel) comes off easily. Two screws for the glove box hinges and it comes out. This allows access to 2 screws (top/bottom) on the left edge of the glove box opening for the right side of the center panel. The rest of the panel is held in place by springy clips. A quick rearward tug on the panel will free each side of it from the dash. If you are removing it for the first time, it might make you a little nervous. Quick force actually works better than careful/slow pressure. Disconnect the 12v outlet power connector and the panel is free.

I find it an odd choice for such a futuristic car to come with a cassette deck. CDs came out in the 80's and were mainstream media long before the first Insight model hit the market.

A decent quality head unit can be had for not much more than $100. If you are willing to spend a little more, the feature set increases quickly. If you can use a screwdriver and crimp wires, you can upgrade your system in less than an hour. Just match the new head unit's wire harness to the oem harness adapter. The wires are industry-standard color coded- just match them up and crimp them together. Even better if you solder and shrink-tube insulate.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:06 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Thank you , good info ,
will try tomorrow to open it look around , may go with an aftermarket unit with an audio input jack...
thank you!
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:31 PM   #49 (permalink)
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I just did a quick search and found the Alpine head unit I have on Amazon for $222. That's less than what I paid for mine last April- quite a bargain.

Amazon.com: Alpine iDA-X305SBT Package Car MP3/WMA/ Digital media receiver and Bluetooth adapter: Electronics Amazon.com: Alpine iDA-X305SBT Package Car MP3/WMA/ Digital media receiver and Bluetooth adapter: Electronics
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:35 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I just did a quick search and found the Alpine head unit I have on Amazon for $222. That's less than what I paid for mine last April- quite a bargain.

Amazon.com: Alpine iDA-X305SBT Package Car MP3/WMA/ Digital media receiver and Bluetooth adapter: Electronics
Thanks for the link!
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