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Old 12-24-2012, 03:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok I think I have located the connector, Please let me know if this is indeed the one. It seems to have the correct color wires and is the right area.

If that's it, next question, how to disconnect it. My attempts so far are not working. Thanks
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The connector has two locking mechanisms.

You must first remove it from the metal bracket (there is a press tab for this), then you can use the other normal press tab to seperate the two halves.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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This photo shows the sensor internal view:
http://99mpg.com/workshops/mikessatu...torisaddedtom/
If you remove the air cleaner stuff, you can get at the sensor, but I am not sure if you can get it out without splitting the IMA motor from the engine.
If that fails to find the problem,
I would suggest that the main 100A fuse is checked, as a burst of regen could have blown it?
http://99mpg.com/blog/batterypacksex...ethe100asemic/

Have seen several cars recently with that issue, the fuse has small conductors that do not tolerate much over current.
Easiest way to do that is to measure the Volts in the main HV wires coming out of the battery top terminals
With the car idling, this voltage should be a stable 140-160V, and reving the engine should not change it much. If the fuse is blown, the voltage will swing over a 100-240V range when the engine rpm is changed.
Good luck with your troubleshooting.

Last edited by Mike Dabrowski 2000; 12-24-2012 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dabrowski 2000 View Post
But I am not sure if you can get it out without splitting the IMA motor from the engine.
You can't it's a gearbox out job

The 100A fuse is a good call check that as Mike suggests.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks for the idea about the fuse, this does sound more like a fuse issue since the suddenness of the problem. Question though, the IMA does occasional start the engine, could it do that if this fuse was blown?
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Nope, the blown fuse is the same as flipping off the INMA switch, so the fuse is not the problem.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thought I would bring this story to a conclusion. After some self diagnosis it appeared likely that the problem was the commutation sensor itself. Considering the difficulty of replacing those (beyond my mechanical abilities) I took it to our local Honda dealer. I told them what I knew, but was very curious to see what they thought it was. Later that day the guy called and said they had diagnosed the problem down to a bad commutation sensor and a bad MCM. I told him that I didn't see how both could fail at the same time and I doubted very much that there was any problem with the MCM. He just said that was what their diagnostics were showing. So I gave him the go ahead to replace the sensor only and not the MCM. Next day he called me and said replacing the sensor only worked and everything was running fine!

When I picked up the car he gave me the replaced part and I see one of the three sensors has an abrasion on its back side, so the rubber was worn off and a small hole had developed. Not sure if this happened during the downshift or the downshift was just the last straw of an already dying sensor.

I'm not really upset at the dealer, considering they don't see many issues like this, they probably replace the MCM as standard procedure in these situations. At least they diagnosed the sensor problem correctly and fixed it properly. I'm happy I knew enough to save myself some money, largely because of this forum and the people on it that are so eager to help!

Now to get back to that grid charger project!
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Glad to see the problem solved. You have a first for that problem.
Also impressed that they gave you the part.
This is something everyone should do, Request the old part that was replaced. It is your right. (Unless it is a warranty item)
Now the challenge is to figure out why that part broke.

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Old 01-18-2013, 04:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for that update. It fits in well with my experience of sensors with the ends worn through. Clearly there is not much clearance between the commutation plate and the sensors !!! The missed shift or whatever it was must have just caused sufficient contact to finish it off. The only other explanation is the sensor mounting bolt came loose and it gradually crept out of it's location and made contact with the plate.

Please post a pic of your sensors for comparison.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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What was the charge for replacing the sensor?


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Use: 346K mi. @ 58.0 LMPG


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http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/.../message/12630
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