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Old 05-11-2005, 11:50 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I got the one from Alex Peper.
http://www.obd-2.com

I'm pretty happy with it, but you need a laptop to run it. I have a 110 volt converter and a really old Acer Pentium 120 that only runs windows 95.
I really like the dashboard on it because you can set up gauges to monitor. I have the intake air and coolant temperature on the large ones so it's easy to see.

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Old 04-18-2009, 08:40 PM   #22 (permalink)
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An update to the automatic warm air intake mod:

I moved some parts around so they are much different compared to the original posting at the beginning of this thread.

I took more pictures and replaced them using the same name so older links will still work but will contain the newest pics.

To make it easy for viewing, here are just the pics of the update.

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake01.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake02.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake03.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake04.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake05.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake06.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake07.jpg

The tube that goes from the cat to the air mixer is now all one piece that goes under the battery. It is wrapped with tons of duct tape for stength and some insulating value. After the initial duct tape wrapping of several layers, there are two layers of insulation tape (R2 value for each layer), then another wrapping of duct tape as a final layer. So I know that it is at least R5 value or more with all of the wrappings.

I was able to shorten the length of the insulated tube by repositioning the angle of the warm air inlet 180 degress from the stock part so now the inlet faces the rear of the car.

Also, the metal air mixer is double layered insulated as well.

We will see how next winter goes

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Old 12-22-2012, 08:54 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I did the same thing joecvt did. I used the parts from a 1983 Honda accord. Here are some pictures:

Hot air flapper valve installed in lower insight air cleaner. Hot air comes in the back of the air cleaner. I put in a baffle to duct the cold air from the normal opening into the air valve. I used sheet foam to insulate the bottom part of the air cleaner housing and sheet silicone for the top cover.





The location of the hot air intake on the back of the air box makes for a very short run to the cat. I used two pieces of molded radiator hose to get around the battery. So far I have not had time to insulate the metal hose piece. I used heat pipe for older cars. The hot air valve is a 1 1/2 inch od, so I used the same size radiator hose, 1 1/2 inch id. Connected the two pieces together with a short piece of 1 1/2 inch od metal sink drain pipe. I cut a hole in the cat shield. Due to rust from 10 Chicago winters there was no way I was going to remove the cat shield. Used a dremel to cut the hole, much easier than I expected.




The accord air cleaner assembly included the check valve. I used a cable clamp to mount it to a stock fastener. One outlet to the air temp sensor in the upper air cleaner cover and one to the vacuum flapper valve in the lower air cleaner cover.

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Last edited by Need4Speed; 12-26-2012 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:55 AM   #24 (permalink)
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More pictures. Stock check valve





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Last edited by Need4Speed; 12-22-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:14 AM   #25 (permalink)
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More pictures. The stock accord air cleaner also had the temp sensor. When cold it is not open and no vacuum leaks past it. When hot a small orifice is opened leaking vacuum, then the valve on the air flapper has no vacuum and does not open.



Temp sensor installed in the air cleaner top cover. The temp sensor has a small set screw that can be used to adjust the temp. I used a five gallon bucket and hot air gun to set it for 100 degrees F. In real operation a few nights ago in 32 degree weather I was able to drive about 20 miles with the intake air temp reading 98F. I do not know how cold it can get before I can't maintain 98F.

Has anyone ever insulated the air intake runners from the air cleaner to the head? At stops the intake air temp drops rather quickly. Returns back to temp quickly after starting up. I wonder how much heat is lost in the intake runners.




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Last edited by Need4Speed; 12-22-2012 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:57 AM   #26 (permalink)
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To attach to the cat shield I used an automotive exhaust adapter, cut some tabs, left a few to go inside the hole and most to go outside the hole. Use two large hose clamps to secure it.







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Last edited by Need4Speed; 12-22-2012 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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10F this morning and I was only able to maintain mid 70F IAT temperatures. I guess I will need to insulate the metal tube from the cat....
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Or reduce the fresh air volume coming into the box.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:26 PM   #29 (permalink)
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What do you mean reduce the amount of fresh air? At those temps all the air comes in from the tube from the cat....
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need4Speed View Post
What do you mean reduce the ampunt of fresh air? At those temps all the air comes in from the tube from the cat....
New to the thread, so sorry if I missed this, but with the hot air pipe valve/flapper all the way open, wouldn't the air coming into the engine be a mix of both intake passages (i.e. cat 'hot air pipe' and original factory intake tube)? Or is there a second flapper that closes the factory intake tube that I missed?
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