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Old 08-29-2004, 07:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Solar Propulsion or Solar Fantasy?

Don't laugh yet!


IMPORTANT NOTE: All thoughts here are just conceptual. Some of them would likely void your warranty, or could cause damage to your car. Tampering with the NIMH batteries is dangerous. The purpose of exploring this topic is to devlop ideas. Often, bad ideas end up producing great results after proper thought, modification, evolution and innovation. Hopefully, in the end, a well organized, safe, benefit-yielding design can be made.....maybe not! We will see! Please don't harm your car or yourself with premature ill-conceived ideas yet to be thought out. Over time, I would like to develop a well conceived plan that takes all factors into consideration -- safe, non-warranty-voiding, and a productive addition the Insight.

----

Background: I have a 2004 CVT. Here are some observations I have made since purchasing it. I think some of these observations are different for 5 speeds. My solar thoughts appear later, and are based upon these observations.

Battery
=====
(1) My battery never fully charges. It is at 2 bars below max 95% of the time! In the other 5 percent of the time, it is 3 bars less than max -- never lower. This is obviously a unique characteristic of the CVT and possibly newer software in the 2004 model.

IMA
===
(1) IMA assist (the way I drive) is never more than 4 or 5 bars. In order to get more, I would have to drive like a maniac. When flooring the gas pedal, it goes several bars higher, but simultaneously the MPG goes below 10 MPG. Therefore, I feel I am better off with 4-5 bars assist and "learning to like it" (gets about 25-50 MPG when using 4-5 bars assist in highway driving). I get 4-5 bars assist in City driving too (more if I lay rubber when pulling out!)
(2) The ASSIST always stops assisting before I am finished accelerating -- both highway and city ... this is very frustrating.

I often wonder if a contributing factor as to why CVT's get poorer MPG is due to the restrictions on how and when assist is applied. I know everybody attributes the primary difference to the lack of lean-burn, but I am not so sure. Perhaps restricted assist is 1/2 the reason, and lean-burn is the other half.

Momentum REGEN - Highway Driving
========================
(1) 4-5 bars assist is very helpful on inclines
(2) On descents, I get 4-5 bars (green) battery charge
(3) The 4-5 bars charging on descents SLOWS DOWN THE CAR BADLY!
(4) I often have to apply pressure to the gas pedal on descents in order to stop it from charging the battery in order to maintain spped DOWNHILL. Using the vehicles power resources to travel down slopes on the highway doesn't make any sense to me. It makes sense when you want to slow down, but that is almost never the case traveling on the highway. But, that's the way it is designed. Remember -- I got a CVT. I owned a stick all my life prior to the Insight. With a stick, putting it in neutral, yields far less resistance on descents than automatics; you just can't 'coast' like you do with a stick. ASSIST complicates this even further creating a real problem looking for a solution.
(5) On ONE (just one!) occasion my battery was fully charged. it coasted very nicely on descents ... it was a real pleasure to drive! As a rsult, I got significantly better mileage because the car did not engage regen, and therefore DOES NOT SLOW DOWN THE CAR!

Momentum REGEN - City Driving
=====================
(1) When I take my foot off the gas pedal in City driving, 95% of the time I do so with the intent to slow down. In the city, momentum charging is helpful for both purposes -- slowing down, and charging the NIMH's.

REGEN -- From the brakes
=================
(1) I can't detect any slow-down whatsoever from brake electrical regeneration. When extreme light pressure applied to the brake pedal, I often get about 10 bars! I can't feel any difference (slow down effect) between (a) momentum regen alone and (b) combined momentum and brake regen. The mod I saw on a thread in this message board to activate brake regen with a button seems like a good idea!

SUMMARY -- AND IMPORTANT OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
====================================
(1) Momentum REGEN is costing me MPG on highway driving (on descents)
(2) Fully charged battery saves me MPG (and frustration) by not having to apply gas pedal going downhill!
(3) Boston, MA climate can be extremely cold during winter
(4) Extreme cold bad on battery system?
(5) MPG suffers badly from cold and extreme cold engine starts
(6) MPG suffers from continued cold engine temps while driving
(7) Extreme hot interior temp is bad on battery during summer?
( Extreme hot interior temp is bad on me during summer!
(9) 12V battery draws power from main system to recharge itself, thereby reducing the potential for full-charge-state of main battery.
(10) Having a fully charged battery system each time you drive it (both 12V and NIMH) would be great!

THE FANTASY BEGINS?
===============
(1) Cover/replace the entire roof of the car with a large solar panel, or panel array. It could be supplemented with more solar panels in other places, but my thought is to not make this thing look like a science project -- keep it's rather distinguished appearance by making the roof panel(s) neatly designed, packaged, etc. -- make it look as good as it can. Note: My idea to use the entire roof for solar panels is a result of posts from other threads suggesting only trivial power can be generated by smaller panels. If this proves untrue, a less dramatic solar system would be used. People smarter than I can hopefully aid in this aspect of the design. Also, smaller panels could be used if a more effecient application of available energy were to be developed thereby reducing the need for additional power.
(2) Acquire a hand-held pocket-pc or palm computer (lowest power consumption possible, minimal RAM, etc.)
(3) Acquire or create a panel controller to connect the panels to the NIMH batteries -- it has to prevent overcharging (of course!), and have a diode to cut off the circuit during non charging time periods. Since the NIMH batteries charge the 12V battery, I don't think it would help to attempt connecting to the 12V for charging purposes (redundant?)
(4) Install exhaust/intake fans on cargo area air vents as described in other threads. Computer would compare indoor/outdoor temps to determine when fans are needed, and only run when needed. The fans move air bidirectionally depending on circumstances. The computer could detect when little or no further benefit could be achieved by running the fans for additional time, and shut them off in order to devote electric resource to some other system.
(5) Install 3 liter thermos to connect to coolant system to help increase engine temp when car not in use, or help heat it while driving during extremely cold temps where desired engine temp can not be maintained. (This was a mod proposal/thought from another thread).
(6) This one might be a bit extreme! Install an electric blind on the rear window. (The purpose of which would be to enable unobstructed vision while driving, yet could be controlled to block sunlight while the vehicle is not in use (to keep interior cooler during summer, and possibly keep it warmer by acting as an isolator during the winter by automatically closing it when car is turned off. During winter, if the computer detects that the outside temperature is higher than the inside temperature, it would open the blinds. Otherwise, it would close them -- 24 hours a day -- all automatic. (Cooling fans could act as both heating and cooling with some added smarts, and would operate in a similar fashion)
(7) install a set of sensors (a) Interior temp, (b) exterior temp, (c) coolant system temp, (d) daylight sensor, (e) car-in-use may not need a sensor since I suppose you could connect to the cig lighter wiring, and detected the presence or absence of current, thereby indicating verhicle in/out of use.
( Install a thermal resistance heater someplace in the car for interior comfort.
(9) (NEW) Add a series of peltier thermoelectric device and develop some type of indoor/outdoor thermal transfer system to cool and heat the interior of the car. These devices are used in coolers that plug into your cig lighter adapter. This idea was mentioned in a couple of other threads on this forum. Clearly, they won't cool and heat very much, but every little bit helps. The "every little bit helps" concept is proven by the Insight's design --- Honda apparently measured every nut and bolt that went into the Insight to produce an 1850 pound car. It appears to have been accomplished by taking advantage of every savings possible. Each on their own may be trivial. However, when considered as an aggregate total, trivial savings can be significant.

IMPLEMNTATION
==========

All of the sensors would be connected to the hand-held. The loads would have to be connected to some type of controller which would interface to the handheld to allow the handheld to programatically turn each attached load on or off.

All the computer has to do is (a) be programmed, (b) be able to read input from sensors, and (c) turn on and off 12v DC loads.

THe computer would operate (unattended) on a 24 hour basis. When the software detects low charge on handheld battery, it would shut itself off (or perhaps hynbernate) and disenable all attached loads and power sources. It might be a thought to attach a private backup power source (perhaps an array of D size NIMH's) to the handheld to allow it to operate for entended periods of time when external charging is not available. (Of course another option would be to implement this system with a programmable controller (chip) for very extremely low power consumption -- more difficult to build!)

Other than an obvious mod to the roof, this system needs to be minimally invasive (if at all) to the "stock" function and operation of the vehicle. Warranties must be protected, and it must be safe to install. This is important to me, as I really don't want to redesign or change the way the car was designed to operate in any way (In other words, I am don't want a mod that simply "tricks" or "fools" the system into doing one thing when it was designed to do another. As an example, I would not want to install a regen-cutoff-switch, or a i-didn't-let-up-off-the-gas-pedal button to fool the Insight's systems into doing one thing when it really should have done another -- and thereby damage the system.

SOFTWARE Fantasy
=============
I'm a software developer by profession, so this part seems the easiest to me.

The overall purpose and design of the software would be to manage all resources as appropriate ... as needed, as available -- on a 24 hour a day basis. It would turn systems off when generated electricity is not available, and distribute them based on a needs-based criteria when they are available.

I would develop a desktop based application with a friendly user interface to configure/program the handheld. It would likely use a Compact Flash or SD memory card to allow me to easily transport it back and forth from the car, and allow easy reconfiguration.

The computer would allow you to monitor the environment, and make intelligent decisions as to how generated electricity could best be spent.

During the cold: (a) you might want to focus on engine temp while car is parked. (b) you might want to focus on NIMH charging while driving, or (c) perhaps interior heat. During cold, once computer detects NIMH battery is fully charged, it could then switch from the NIMH charging load to interior heat, or perhaps engine coolant heater.

During summer: (a) while parked, you might want it to concentrate on NIMH charging and once it detects full-charged state, switch to interior temp reduction. Or (b) perhaps, you might want it to split the electrical resource between interior temp reduction AND NIMH charging (not by running them both at the same time, but by programatically splitting the amount of time devoted to each load). Or, (c) it could turn off the other loads for a few seconds, and adjust the rear electric blind such that the sun is blocked.

In other words, make it smart. Another possible enhancement would be to add voice recognition to the handheld, and have it give audial beeps and/or computer generated voice status reports. The "magic" of the system would like in the computer and software. With the hardware in place as described, the features of the software are only limited by your imagination.

LOGGING DEVICE
============

THe handheld could be used as a logging device to measure how successfully different systems perform. As an example, while using the coolant heater, it could log coolant temperature in 5 minute intervals over an extended period of time. This would provide you with precise knowledge of how each system preforms given environmental considerations With this data, you could then better configure the software to allocate energy resources. Overall system effeciency could be tightly managed. The log could easily be examined on your in-home computer.

802.11b or BLUETOOTH
===============
I already own an HP 5555 Pocket-PC. It accepts SD memory cards, Compact Flash. It also has built-in 802.11b as well as Bluetooth. For long term use, it has way too many features needed for this application. However, I would likely start with it with the intention of replacing it later with something smaller and less power consuming.

With wireless capability, however, I could have the pocket-pc log performance data directly (remotely) to my indoor desktop PC. Also, I could reconfigure it wirelessly without having to run outside. This would allow me to study how well different heating/cooling systems work, and easily make changes to test lots of different configurations. The intent here would be to optimize the Solar systems resources to achieve the greatest return.


SOLAR PROPULSION?
==============

I started with "Solar Propulsion". If this idea could make a car able to (on average) move from point A to point B with improved MPG, would it qualify as "Solar Propulsion?"

Solar charging the NIMH's while driving would give me a better chance of reach ing full power -- something it has only done once since I have owned it. Again, full charge means no descent slow-downs from regen charging --- improved MPG! Also, Higher engine temps in the winter helps propel the car more efficiently. Coolant engine heating would help while parked (for startups), and keep it warmer while driving -- both helping MPG.

CONCLUSION
=========

It is true – solar panels can’t create large quantities of electricity on demand. They can, however, produce large amounts over extended periods of time (for example, while the car is parked in the parking lot, and you are inside working for 8 or more hours).

Based on the input from many of you in other posts, it became clear that solar power is a limited resource. So, I decided to focus on how to find the best possible application of a limited resource to produce a greater benefit (and also, to intelligently direct that resource to the most immediate need!)

Ok, so have I really lost it? Need to be committed? or What? I have decided not to show this document to my wife. Reasons should be obvious.

This would obviously take some time to implement -- probably more design and planning than actual installation. While I have the software skills, I lack in the required hardware skills. Also, I lack other knowledge dealing with electricity and solar power generation.

I would welcome any ideas, suggestions, problem identification, and knowledge, anybody might be willing to contribute to this exploration.
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Old 08-29-2004, 08:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't think you would need as much in the way of solar panels as you have proposed, but they could definately be used to charge the battery. One important note, however, is that you should find a way to route the power from the solar panels through the battery controller. The battery controller doesn't actually measure the charge in the battery, but rather keeps a running tally based on current flow in either direction through the battery controller.

Also, the battery normally only charges to 80% of it's capacity, and discharges to 20% of it's capacity. (The guage is adjusted to compensate for this, so "no charge" is actually 20% charge and "full" is 80% charge.) Limiting the cycle like this preserves the life of the battery. So this is another reason why you should route through the battery controller.
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Old 08-29-2004, 09:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Since you asked for opinions:

I don't mean to sound negative but, a primary consideration you are overlooking is keeping the batteries "happy". Not too full nor too empty and during charging, not too hot nor too cold. Failure to correctly account for these paramenters will severely shorten battery life.

Also if you do the "math" in regard to the amount of energy useable from a solar array and the mere seconds of engine operation that it equates to you will see the very limited return on your investment. And don't forget the weather and "efficency" losses.

Using solar for cooling (ventalation) of the interior in the summer is a better inventment.

The hot air mod and the cool temperature radiator block along with driving in the high MPG style are simple proven methods that are _very_ cost effective.

See:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... fdd3075a64

For more thatn you probably want to know about the IMA pack.

HTH!
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Old 08-29-2004, 10:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don, I've been a solar enthusiast for decades, building a model solar car before the official solar races started and more recently a one man solar boat. As a technologist with a background in power conversion I'd love to see something done with our cars.
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Old 08-29-2004, 10:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments Trekker... Actually, I am seeking the negatives regarding this thought! Any you may have are welcome! I view negatives as "problems which have yet to have found their appropriate solution". If something is a bad idea ... PLEASE LET ME KNOW!

You mentioned:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Insightful Trekker
I don't mean to sound negative but, a primary consideration you are overlooking is keeping the batteries "happy". Not too full nor too empty and during charging, not too hot nor too cold. Failure to correctly account for these paramenters will severely shorten battery life.
In my original post, item #3 under "The Fantasy Begins?" reads:

(3) Acquire or create a panel controller to connect the panels to the NIMH batteries -- it has to prevent overcharging (of course!), and have a diode to cut off the circuit during non charging time periods. Since the NIMH batteries charge the 12V battery, I don't think it would help to attempt connecting to the 12V for charging purposes (redundant?)

Foxpaw noted I should investigate using the vehicle's battery controller -- a good suggestion. I will have to find out if it requires power of it's own to function, and if so how much. If it has to be "powered up" to work, maybe topping off the batteries only while driving could be something to look at. I have a good bit to learn about charging NIMH's -- Foxpaw's point of counting instead of measuring would have to impact the design. His idea would clearly be a great solution for keep the battery "happy" -- better than the one I proposed in item #3.

With regard to how much propulsion I would get from extended solar charging ... my purpose is to "top off" the batteries in order to avoid regen on descents. It's not to propel the car directly any distance at all. Clearly, though, I need to investigate how much power it would take to charge the NIMH's (for example) from 75% to 80% capacity given available solar energy as a function of time. From what I know so far, I get the sense that the NIMH's don't hold a large amount of electricity as it is. My though was that "topping them off" might be something to look at.

I guess my thinking is this .... If I invest in solar panels to drive 12v fans during the summer, do I just let them lie there and do nothing all spring, fall, and winter long? It's a fascinating line of thought ... fun to think about!
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Old 08-30-2004, 12:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWatson3558

<snip>

With regard to how much propulsion I would get from extended solar charging ... my purpose is to "top off" the batteries in order to avoid regen on descents.
If I am understanding your terminology correctly "regen on decents" would equate to "charging on deceleration". Which is almost "free" in that the car's momentum is slowing for some reason. Why not convert some of the energy to electricity?

The bigger loss is that of a forced charge event which is due to depleting the batteries on acceleration faster than is recharged on deceleration or braking. Power is drawn directly from the ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) during this type of charging event.

But if you've got a CVT (automatic) Insight then the above "rule" doesn't apply. A CVT equipped Insight allows for an additional dimension of battery happiness in that the ICE's RPM will be infinitely adjusted in balance with IMA assist or charging. Which adds flexibility in battery thermal and load management. Forced charging events are virtually "transparent" to the driver (for most situations). In any case a CVT forced charge and a 5spd event are very different animals from behind the wheel. My understanding from postings and exchanges with several CVT owners is that they have never experienced a forced charge. See my old post link as referenced in my earlier reply.

And to reiterate: charging a NiMH battery when its too cold will cause damage. The Insight's battery management uses thermo sensors to determine just how to treat the batteries according to their temperature. A much more sophisticated system than a diode.

HTH!
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Old 08-30-2004, 01:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insightful Trekker
If I am understanding your terminology correctly "regen on decents" would equate to "charging on deceleration". Which is almost "free" in that the car's momentum is slowing for some reason. Why not convert some of the energy to electricity?
Trekker -- that's precisely my point. With my CVT, charging on decererations during highway driving is not free. It costs! I have to apply the gas pedal (pulling power from available energy sources) to get down the descent! The "some reason" you mentioned is because it has incorrectly assumed that my intention is to slow down rather than continuing foward.

My "real intention" only happens when the battery is fully charged. I can drive on the highway the way one would expect to drive on a highway. Up and down small slopes without the car assuming I want to stop -- and then applying the momentum regen "brakes".

It even goes into regen on very mild descents when I let up on the gas pedal slightly! (I let up on it trying to coast a little or increase MPG, but the darn thing forces me to put the pedal back down. I get the sense that 5 speed drivers don't suffer from this problem.

If the batteries were charged to full (80%), I could go down a descent normally during highway driving. Clearly, the car MUST regen if when (if ever) the batteries are low -- so the basic design of the system can not be mofified. The only option is to improve the chances that the NIMH's are fully charged, thereby providing the opportunity for non-regen descents to occur.

Solar enhancement to charging the battery is not a total solution, but my thought was that it would at least increase-the-ever-rare-occurance of getting down hills avoiding regen. I get the sense 5 speed drivers don't suffer from this problem. BTW, I have only had a full-charged state once since I bought it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Insightful Trekker
The bigger loss is that of a forced charge event which is due to depleting the batteries on acceleration faster than is recharged on deceleration or braking. ..... But if you've got a CVT (automatic) Insight then the above "rule" doesn't apply.
I noticed that. I read your thread and didn't identify with much of what was said due to differences with CVT. Also, I don't think I could deplete the batteries if I tried. I am at 2 bars below full 95+ percent of the time. The other 5- percent is at 3 bars below full.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Insightful Trekker
And to reiterate: charging a NiMH battery when its too cold will cause damage. The Insight's battery management uses thermo sensors to determine just how to treat the batteries according to their temperature. A much more sophisticated system than a diode.
Yes, I clearly learned something important here. As both you and Foxpaw have stated, any added charging capacity to the system must use the NIMH's battery controller with all it's built in safeguards.

Thanks again for all the comments!
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Old 08-30-2004, 03:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Donwatson3558:

___As Insightful Trekker has already mentioned, the energy output of a roof full of solar cells is so small as to be almost meaningless other then topping off the pack over a few hours period of direct sunlight. Our packs are good for maybe 1 mile of actual propulsion so after a little math, it just doesn’t add up.

___On the modding of your CVT, it almost sounds like you might prefer the 5-speed? The efficiency gained by lean burn alone will do far more for fuel economy then a yard full of solar panels charging our smallish packs.

___In terms of high external temperatures, keep the windows cracked a small amount or ventilate before taking off. The solar panel fan mod was a neat idea but in Boston, just as in Chicago, it isn’t that hot on most days? In terms of cold, an engine block heater is available for out Insight’s and the cost is < $35.00. Plug it in and you are done considering a thermos to hold coolant at higher temperatures (ala Prius II) or whatever … Mine is still sitting in a box waiting to be installed in another 3 or 4 weeks.

___I don’t know? Fuel efficiency can be extended and maintained using Hypermileage driving techniques and the simple setups far more then anything discussed so why not start there instead? I love reading about the mods many do to our little beauties but after driving my own for almost 30,000 miles now, fuel economy comes from the simple stuff like using the car as it was built with warm air mod(s) and high pressure tires, not the wild ideas and there implementations some here have tried in my short experience. Not that I am not interested but Honda built one hell of an efficient automobile and asking for much more with lots of HW changes is like diving into a pool devoid of water. It is going to be painful and the outcome may not be what you expect.

___Good Luck

___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___[email:3dcdfrf8]Waynegerdes@earthlink.net[/email:3dcdfrf8]
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Old 08-30-2004, 05:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWatson3558
Ok, so have I really lost it? Need to be committed?
Well if you're off to the loony bin then I should be going too!

I thought about this possibility in terms of the Daihatsu UFE-II a while back, calculating how many miles of daily range could be achieved using today's best solar cells on the roof. The answer was amazing, 53 miles per day with today's commercially available solar cells.

So here are my thoughts on that translated to a modified Insight....

1) The Insight is 1695mm wide by 3945mm long. From above, that's 6.7metres squared of footprint. However, only about 70% of that will be available for solar panelling, so call it 4.7 metres squared.

2) In much of the US, the average incident solar energy is about 5 kilowatt hours per metre squared per day, (averaged over the whole year - in summer a lot more, in winter a lot less). That means the cells on the modified Insight could be exposed to 4.7 x 5 = 23.5 kWh per day.

3) However, no solar cell can convert 100% of that to electricity. The best you can buy today are SunPower A-300, independently verified at 20.4% efficient. So, the modified Insight would only absorb 23.5 x 0.204 = 4.8 kWh per day.

4) The amount of power provided by the cells on the whole roof is tiny! You're looking at a maximum power of just 960 watts, or just a fraction over 1 horsepower! There is no way this amount of power can propel the car directly.

5) Therefore, the 4.8kWh has to be stored over the whole day in a storage battery, and the Insight has to be modified to have an EV mode (say 100 miles worth of lithium-ion storage).

6) Assuming an efficient EV drivetrain, at 7 miles per kWhr, you'd be looking at an all solar EV range of 7 x 4.8 = 34 miles per day, or about 12,000 miles per year.

Of course when the sun doesn't shine or you park it in the shade, you'd have to use the ICE. But as an eco-friendly alternative to gas, you can't go far wrong with pure solar!

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Old 08-30-2004, 08:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcel
___As Insightful Trekker has already mentioned, the energy output of a roof full of solar cells is so small as to be almost meaningless other then topping off the pack over a few hours period of direct sunlight. Our packs are good for maybe 1 mile of actual propulsion so after a little math, it just doesn’t add up.
That's good news! Although I had never considered trying to directly propel the car any distance at all with solar, perhaps it's something to think about. I think I'll keep my focus limited to just topping off the batteries. Topping off the batteries once a day would be a great improvement compared to the ONE time it has ever been topped off since have I owned the car. Topped off batteries means good improvement in downhill MPGS on a CVT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcel
On the modding of your CVT, it almost sounds like you might prefer the 5-speed? The efficiency gained by lean burn alone will do far more for fuel economy then a yard full of solar panels charging our smallish packs.
Could be true. I have had a stick since college. I'm now 46, and the Insight is my first automatic. However, I didn't buy the Insight because of fuel economy alone. I bought it because of a life-long passive interest in the technology. Also, I feel in my own small way, it's my contribution to the war effort. While I am not unhappy with the CVT, I would not be any "happier" with the 5 speed. In fact, if I owned the 5 speed, I would be exploring ways to improve it's economy from XXXMPG to XXX+YMPG -- likely via solar. I think much of the discussion on this message board explores Insight mods for the same reason -- not because something is bad, but an interest in how to improve/enhance the technology and make it beter. In this case, I don't want to modify the technology -- only augment it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcel
___In terms of high external temperatures, keep the windows cracked a small amount or ventilate before taking off. ..... In terms of cold, an engine block heater is available for out Insight’s and the cost is < $35.00. Plug it in and you are done considering a thermos to hold coolant at higher temperatures.
True. Cracking the windows helps. I just bought a Covercraft sun shield, and also installed the Honda engine block heater last weekend. But I'm not done condidering the thermos. I do fear issues with it ... difficult to install, impact on warranty, etc. In the end, it may never get done, but from a technology improvement viewpoint, I want to consider it to see where it takes me. One idea usually leads to a better idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcel
Honda built one hell of an efficient automobile and asking for much more with lots of HW changes is like diving into a pool devoid of water. It is going to be painful and the outcome may not be what you expect.
Very true ... as a matter of fact, almost most all of the mods I have heard fit this description. Second guessing how the internal software works, and modifying the engine and/or fooling electrical systems sounds like driving through quicksand to me. When and IF I install a solar system, I just want to help top off the batteries and do some other projects that don't involve monkeying with the Insights internals!
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2004 CVT Insight, Purchased July 20, 2004, #262
2005 Toyora Prius, White, Package 5, Purchased 4/18/05
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