I'm getting ready to flush and refill the radiator of our 2000 Insight. I've got the rubber gasket for the radiator drain plug but am unsure about the engine block drain. I believe I know where it is (if any of you have done this, please let me know for sure where the drain is) but don't know what size washer goes on the drain bolt. The Honda dealer in our area had no clue on it's whereabouts or size so I'm asking the knowledgable Insight owners here.
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-2000 NF Red
-64.6 LMPG
-JVC El Kameleon HU, JVC 12 disc changer, Infinity Kappa 3-ways up front and Alpine 2-ways in the rear
Unless the engine has been run with straight H2o there is no reason to pull the engine block plug and drain the coolant. It was mandatory with cast iron blocks but not required on aluminum blocks. Just draining the radiator and refilling with a 50-50 mix of collant will be sufficent. After removing the drain plug, let it set for a while and most of the fluid in the block will drain out. (IMPORTANT) Don't forget to "burp" the cooling system after filling. (There is an actual "burp" fitting.)
If you must:
The block plug is located on the reward side of the engine, behind the cat. converter and just above the oil pan fitting junction.
A 1/2 inch ratchet will remove the plug.
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01 5 speed. "Little Red Rocket"
The first "TURBOCHARGED" Hybrid, (01/2003)
296,000 mi. @ 58.0 LMPG
2007 Honda Fit, Red Sport AT
1998 Ford F-150, NASCAR "Limited Edition"
(3K made, possibly the prototype one)
Thanks. We are actually planning on flushing with straight H2O for a few minutes so the block drain will have to come off. Now if I could ever find a weekend to do it...first Charley, then Francis!!!!
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-2000 NF Red
-64.6 LMPG
-JVC El Kameleon HU, JVC 12 disc changer, Infinity Kappa 3-ways up front and Alpine 2-ways in the rear
Look in the owners manual. Everything you need to see is in there. The hardest part is getting the engine block coolant drain off because space is so tight. It's the huge (27mm I believe) bolt on the back left side of the engine. The bleed valve can be seen in the owners manual and can easily be gotten to by removing the engine cover.
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-2000 NF Red
-64.6 LMPG
-JVC El Kameleon HU, JVC 12 disc changer, Infinity Kappa 3-ways up front and Alpine 2-ways in the rear
Kapps; I believe you are incorrect on that. When I flushed my system, the block coolant drain was a bronze colored, FEMALE cavity, square hole looking bolt. My 3/4 inch socket drive (male) fit into the hole perfectly, and yes, it was installed quite snug. billy...
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2005 Red 5 spd, color video cam w/5' monitor instead of outside mirrors, no rear wiper, tint, clear-coated & highly polished, car shows on weekends, LMPG 89.5
Yea, it is a female socket. What I meant by 27mm is the size of the aluminum gasket that I had to special order from Honda. Yves, make sure you have one.
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-2000 NF Red
-64.6 LMPG
-JVC El Kameleon HU, JVC 12 disc changer, Infinity Kappa 3-ways up front and Alpine 2-ways in the rear
The standard and sufficient change interval for the 02 model is the first 120K miles, then every 60K miles. By the book Canadian's should replace it sooner. _IF_ your using a non silicate based anti-corrosion type antifreeze. Honda Type II is Honda's recommended, duh <VBG>.
Using silicate type antifreeze will require a future more frequent change interval of 30,000 miles _and_ the silicate "grit" will take its toll on the water pump seal in the long term. Once its installed you'll never get it all out.
AFAIK Honda has recently extended the replacement interval and should include all Insights.
You may have noticed my position of more frequent oil changes. So you may be of the opinion that I am one to "over maintain" my car. This new extended change interval for Honda Type II coolant is sufficient. It's that good. So are _some_ of the other silicate free formulas. YMMV by brand.
But why the first 120K then every 60K? They say that it takes that long on a "new" engine for the original antifreeze to need replacement. I'll probably "over maintain" mine with a first 60K then every 60K interval <VBG>
The block drain crush washer usually doesn't need replacing 'til the 2nd or 3rd removal.
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