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Old 12-23-2012, 03:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Has anyone tried removing the resonator tube and canister. I looked up my car to see if all my underbody plates were there and before even checking that, I notice something hanging down 1-2" below the bottom of the rest of the car. Popped the hood and it was the resonator canister. Missing the bolts so it was just kinda hanging there.

Also, if I could customize the tube or make a custom one to go behind the engine, instead of in front, that would cause a warmer air charger, maybe helping for the winter ahead. Will see if I can come up with anything.

Also, may be changing jobs. Instead of 75 miles one way, ill be doing 40 miles one way and never have to get on the interstate, so I won't have a speed limit over 55 mph. Mostly city and country roads.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Right now my trip consists of 41 miles on the interstate running 65-75mph and the rest is about 60% 55mph highway and 40% city.
It's all relative: how much do you want to pay for the MPG gain? How much time and effort are you willing to dedicate to the mods or changes?

-Slow down to 50 or 55 MPH. This is FREE, but will cost you a few minutes a day in your time. Enjoy the ride! This will almost certainly get you up to the 50s in MPG.

-If you don't already have Potenza RE92s, they will cost you a $100 each now. Is it worth the MPG gain for it to pay off at the miles you drive per year for the life of the tires?

-Air up tires. But does the ride difference matter to you more than the MPG gain? Is the risk of not following mfg recommended PSI acceptable to you and your passengers?

-Change plugs. OEMs are VERY expensive. Will it make a modest difference?

-Trade the CVT for a 5 speed. Leanburn will get you there!

-Do a full underbody cover with recycled campaign signs. (Check out Jime's or BlueCivic's cars!)

-I cannot vouch for MPG gains with the rad block.

To some, the MPG gain is purely economics, and it's not worth the expense. To others, it's a matter of pride, hobby, obsession/lunacy
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I want a 5 speed and thought this one was until I got there but I already had the loan and what not. But it was because I had been look at 2 other 5 speeds and I guess forgot to ask this guy. But it's still a great gain over my 20 mpg mustangs.

As for 50-55. It's not the trip taking longer, but it's just unsafe on the interstate where the speed limit is 70 an everyone runs 80.

The potenzas are 80 something on tire rack. Hadn't checked anywhere else. May get some with taxes but need one more wheel. One of te stock wheels and 1-2" missing out of part of the lip of the wheels. That's one other reason I don't want to jack up the psi. Also, needs front end alignment. Tires are starting to feather.

The thing is, I want to get the mpg high but hate to put a lot of money in it because I really want a 5 speed. Unless I could get a hold of a ecu out of a euro or jap car.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:11 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Cperrigo View Post
Has anyone tried removing the resonator tube and canister. I looked up my car to see if all my underbody plates were there and before even checking that, I notice something hanging down 1-2" below the bottom of the rest of the car. Popped the hood and it was the resonator canister. Missing the bolts so it was just kinda hanging there.

Also, if I could customize the tube or make a custom one to go behind the engine, instead of in front, that would cause a warmer air charger, maybe helping for the winter ahead. Will see if I can come up with anything.

Also, may be changing jobs. Instead of 75 miles one way, ill be doing 40 miles one way and never have to get on the interstate, so I won't have a speed limit over 55 mph. Mostly city and country roads.
I'm not a fan of removing the resonator. Ask yourself, are you a better engineer than the Honda engineers?

Freezin4 gives a pretty good rundown of the things which are reasonably proven to improve fuel economy. It just depends on how much effort you want to exert. I'll add two, the grill blocks that you mentioned are very productive both in warmup improvement and aerodynamic improvement. You MUST have a good temperature gauge to watch for overheating conditions. block most of the top, except for about 2 inches on the right, and the right side of the bottom. In addition, right side mirrors are not required in many states, but if you take it off, use a supplementary convex mirror inside.

The car is pretty darn good the way it left the factory, but I plead "lunacy"
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Last edited by jime; 12-24-2012 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:17 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I'm not a fan of removing the resonator. Ask yourself, are you a better engineer than the Honda engineers?

Freezin4 gives a pretty good rundown of the things which are reasonably proven to improve fuel economy. It just depends on how much effort you want to exert. I'll add two, the grill blocks that you mentioned are very productive both in warmup improvement and aerodynamic improvement. You MUST have a good temperature gauge to watch for overheating conditions. block most of the top, except for about 2 inches on the right, and the right side of the bottom. In addition, right side mirrors are not required in many states, but if you take it off, use a supplementary convex mirror inside.

The car is pretty darn good the way it left the factory, but I plead "lunacy"
If the car is like a gm, the resonator is just there for comfort. It quiets the incoming air. Myself, I don't really care about a little noise, the radio will cover most of it.

And as for the how far do I want to go. No, I don't want to remove the side mirrors, the car already has a blind spot over there. Also, I will use the grill block. But I'm afraid my mpg won't improve much until it gets spring time.

Like I said, I'm not going for 115 mpg like you guys. I like wang 6 more mpg to get to 50mpg. 60mpg would be nice but I can't see me selling my soul for it.

Also probably impossible. I carpool with a guy. I'm 180lb he's about 280 lbs. that puts us at 460lb. Which is not only over the payload but is also 1/4 the weight of the car itself.

I have a feeling this hydrogen generator I plan on building will give me 5+ mpg.

Does anyone know if there's a wire somewhere that doesn't carry voltage when the engine is in autostop? I would like to put a relay in the system that will turn of the hydrogen generator one the car goes into autostop.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:30 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Sounds like your commute is similar to mine. Mostly interstate, some rural. Check out 'my commute' in my signature.

The mt's definately have it over the cvt's, but i'm lovin my cvt.

I have re92 tires and run em at 65 psi, no unusual wear issues. (Keep high pressure tires in mind when on slick roads though). I eased off speed to avg 55 on the commute. Takes me 7 more minutes to get to work.

Try some hypermiling techniques like lane postion to the right (ride the ridges, get out of the ruts). Hold fuel position for a steady mpg vs varying fuel position for steady speed. Allow speed to fall off going up inclines and to increase going down. Let the gas guzzelers go by.

I read about risks of radiator blocks and stuck with the grill block listed in my signature (AbCaRed00 drives in Canada).The grill block along with the warm air mod restored 6 mpg when I installed it.

From what I've read, I get pretty decent mpg for a cvt, and I'm still learning to drive it better. Lmpg continues to climb

Like many members state, it takes alot of practice to get good with these cars.

Stickin with my cvt,

..Bob
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mountain driver View Post
Sounds like your commute is similar to mine. Mostly interstate, some rural. Check out 'my commute' in my signature.

The mt's definately have it over the cvt's, but i'm lovin my cvt.

I have re92 tires and run em at 65 psi, no unusual wear issues. (Keep high pressure tires in mind when on slick roads though). I eased off speed to avg 55 on the commute. Takes me 7 more minutes to get to work.

Try some hypermiling techniques like lane postion to the right (ride the ridges, get out of the ruts). Hold fuel position for a steady mpg vs varying fuel position for steady speed. Allow speed to fall off going up inclines and to increase going down. Let the gas guzzelers go by.

I read about risks of radiator blocks and stuck with the grill block listed in my signature (AbCaRed00 drives in Canada).The grill block along with the warm air mod restored 6 mpg when I installed it.

From what I've read, I get pretty decent mpg for a cvt, and I'm still learning to drive it better. Lmpg continues to climb

Like many members state, it takes alot of practice to get good with these cars.

Stickin with my cvt,

..Bob
'Stewart county to nashville' bike map |

There's my daily one way.

Mountain driver, I'd like to know all you've done to yours since we're both in cvt's. All the semis on my route go well over the speed limit. There's not much I can do after I'm road kill, so I just go with the flow on the instate, but make it up with drafting semis.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:14 PM   #28 (permalink)
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'Stewart county to nashville' bike map |

There's my daily one way.

Mountain driver, I'd like to know all you've done to yours since we're both in cvt's. All the semis on my route go well over the speed limit. There's not much I can do after I'm road kill, so I just go with the flow on the instate, but make it up with drafting semis.
Cperrigo,

That's quite a ride.

My signature lists the few mods I have. (also put in a fumoto drain valve). For now, I'm just trying to get the most out of the car 'as is'. The more I read, the more I realize I lucked out & got hold of a G1 in pretty decent shape.

Looking at purchasing an OBDIIC&C for monitoring parameters to help me better understand what my driving habits are producing in the car, as well as read codes when they begin to appear.

As for drafting, I'm not a fan. Some folks get good results. I'm a part-time truck driver (when I'm not burning coal) and I'm never comfortable with a vehicle close to my trailer; so I don't close in on other drivers.

It took a while, but I've become accustomed to letting others 'blow by' while I'm hypermiling (or learning to hypermile). I do watch the rear-view more closely now.

Since I travel the same route each work-day, I'm learing to 'use' the terrain to my cars' advantage.

Give it some time, you'll get used to going slower, and get better feel for your throttle. Seems that adjusting driving habits is one of the better mods I can apply.

As for other mods, use the search feature, and read the forums, there's lots of good ideas out there; just a matter of how much you want to spend.

..Bob
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Well since you have a cvt don't ignore the fluid. Pull the dipstick and wipe it on a clean white paper towel. It should be a light brown, if black and you have no growling in drive then do a drain and fill at least or drop the pan and replace both filters. If you have noise then it's probable a bearing going out...been fixed on this site.
Going to alcahol free gas netted me a 10mpg increase which just offsets the cost. You can go to 50psi in the factory RE92s without increasing the ride harshness too much and your milage should go up. The stock 165/65r14 size tire is at the min. limit for the stock 5.5" wide wheels and raising the air pressure transfers some of the wear characteristics to the center tread also increasing milage.
As far as the intake resonator you could just put a plasti bag over the tube and reattach it to the fresh air tube to test, easy enough to put back.
Try relocating the air intake temp sensor to the upper rad. hose...tape it with duct tape and plug the hole.
Winter time you can duct tape off the lower grill opening for a aero upgrade as well as warmer coolant. The factory temp guage will only give you 6 bars from 170d to 220d so you should monitor temps in some other way...Scangauge or OBDIIC&C.
Keeping you car in a warm garage overnight can help as well as getting a block heater.

I bought my CVT back in April with the IMA light on (GOOD DEAL MADE)and drove 200+ miles home with no assist and got 50mpg driving mostly 70-75mph. When I got home the tires were 30-40 psi. After the IMA battery was replaced under the extended factory warranty I changed the cvt fluid and engine oil and started getting 60-70mpg at 65mph for my 50 mile trip to work.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:48 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Well since you have a cvt don't ignore the fluid. Pull the dipstick and wipe it on a clean white paper towel. It should be a light brown, if black and you have no growling in drive then do a drain and fill at least or drop the pan and replace both filters. If you have noise then it's probable a bearing going out...been fixed on this site.
Going to alcahol free gas netted me a 10mpg increase which just offsets the cost. You can go to 50psi in the factory RE92s without increasing the ride harshness too much and your milage should go up. The stock 165/65r14 size tire is at the min. limit for the stock 5.5" wide wheels and raising the air pressure transfers some of the wear characteristics to the center tread also increasing milage.
As far as the intake resonator you could just put a plasti bag over the tube and reattach it to the fresh air tube to test, easy enough to put back.
Try relocating the air intake temp sensor to the upper rad. hose...tape it with duct tape and plug the hole.
Winter time you can duct tape off the lower grill opening for a aero upgrade as well as warmer coolant. The factory temp guage will only give you 6 bars from 170d to 220d so you should monitor temps in some other way...Scangauge or OBDIIC&C.
Keeping you car in a warm garage overnight can help as well as getting a block heater.

I bought my CVT back in April with the IMA light on (GOOD DEAL MADE)and drove 200+ miles home with no assist and got 50mpg driving mostly 70-75mph. When I got home the tires were 30-40 psi. After the IMA battery was replaced under the extended factory warranty I changed the cvt fluid and engine oil and started getting 60-70mpg at 65mph for my 50 mile trip to work.
I have been meaning to change the engine oil, but I checked it before I test drove it and it was clear so I just ain't got around to it yet. As for the trans, what kind of fluid did you use? I was think valvoline is what I was gonna use, but I'm a big royal purple fan, and I'm gonna check and see if they have cvt fluid, but I doubt they do.

Someone actually backed over my insight yesterday in a parking lot :'( and bent the hood, busted the headlight and pushed the core support back just a little, so I gotta talk with their insurance and get everything straightened out before I start working on increasing the mileage. Maybe it'll total it (I doubt it will) but if it does, I'll buy it back and buy a 5speed!
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