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Old 08-25-2010, 12:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Also you can try improving the condition of the battery with a grid charger. I just started grid charging like 2 days ago, and have noticed that now a full pack lasts longer, and the SOC stays in the higher range most of the time (maybe 2-3 bars from the top)... Before my SOC used to be around mid line most of the time, and force charging alot too.
Thanks for the reply!

I am mostly *not* using the AC because it's such a drag on the car, even though it's getting pretty toasty here in SoCal now.

The grid charger is an interesting idea, but again, I think that's treating the symptom, not the underlying problem. This new battery pack only has about 30k miles on it, so the battery shouldn't need any assistance. The car has over 100k miles on it; something's worn out, broken, clogged, etc., so it's just a "simple" matter of figuring out what's wrong, and replacing/cleaning it (or "them", since it might be more than one thing).

It feels like there is something wrong with the air-fuel mixture. The bucking at light acceleration, the straining under heavy acceleration, and the overall poopy feeling of the car says to me it's getting:

a) not enough fuel (cleaning the injectors might help!)
b) not enough air (idle air control valve acting up? I have no idea what that valve does...)
c) bad computation of air & fuel mixture (O2 sensor?)

The cheapest option of the three is to clean the injectors, and as you said, you got a little mpg gain from it, so I'm going to start with that. I'll report back here with my findings.

-fly
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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The car bucks quite a bit around 2000 rpm when under light acceleration. EGR valve and manifold plate were cleaned around 80k miles, as I mentioned above.
The bucking sounds like an EGR issue from what I have read here. I haven't had the problem myself. Even though it was replaced at 80k, that's 20k+ ago. Was this work done at the dealer or at an independent???
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The bucking sounds like an EGR issue from what I have read here. I haven't had the problem myself. Even though it was replaced at 80k, that's 20k+ ago. Was this work done at the dealer or at an independent???
I think he had mentioned that he had replaced/cleaned the EGR, so that cant be the issue. Even after cleaning my EGR, I still notice bucking sometimes. I did try an experiment once, where I disconnected the EVAP purge valve and block off the hose going to it, and the bucking seemed to have reduced. Maybe try that and see if the problem is not in the EVAP system.
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yes, I *replaced* the EGR valve with a shiny new one around 80K miles. I did the work myself. Also cleaned the manifold plate around the same time.

If anyone lives near Topanga, CA and has pulled their fuel injectors before (or know exactly what's involved), there's a nice bottle of California red wine in it for you if you volunteer to help me. (Or a nice bottle of Tequila, if that's your preference...)

And, oh, by the way, I'm a chick, not a dude.

-fly
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:57 AM   #25 (permalink)
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pulling the injectors is pretty easy compared to cleaning the EGR plate.

here is how i did it:

remove the engine plastic cover. (3 10mm bolts)
Unplug injector connectors.
Remove 2 (10mm) bolts holding the injector wire holder plastic.
Remove 2 (10mm) bolts holding down the fuel rail, and just pull up.
Take out injectors.

Oh and according to the manual, you are supposed to relieve fuel pressure also, which is done by turning the big nut on the far left side of the fuel rail and hold a rag around it.

and when installing them back in, make sure the injector gaskets/rubber rings dont get pinched.
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:15 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Yes, I *replaced* the EGR valve with a shiny new one around 80K miles. I did the work myself. Also cleaned the manifold plate around the same time.
Good, so you can be certain the job was done and done right. Of course it's possible that the replacement EGR failed early, or that the plate somehow got dirty again. Might be worth taking another look at the EGR while you are working on it.

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If anyone lives near Topanga, CA and has pulled their fuel injectors before (or know exactly what's involved), there's a nice bottle of California red wine in it for you if you volunteer to help me. (Or a nice bottle of Tequila, if that's your preference...)

And, oh, by the way, I'm a chick, not a dude.

-fly
"Tequila in Topanga" has a nice ring to it.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:29 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks for the step-by-step instructions! It definitely sounds easier than what the manual says, but probably because they have to use particular language that I'm not so familiar with... not being a mechanic, and all.

I'll take a peek at the EGR while I'm under the hood -- it wasn't hard to remove at all -- but the manifold plate is a bit of a pain. I'll avoid that if possible.

"Tequila in Topanga" should probably be my new signature or something... certainly sounds nicer, and more girly, than "flymuck", ha ha
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:01 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Default Petunia's back to normal!

Hi guys,

My 'skate (named "Petunia" by a girlfriend of mine) is back to normal, thanks to the fuel injector cleaning done by RC Engineering in Torrance, CA. The pre-cleaning tests on the injectors showed 135cc/min, 130cc/min, and 117cc/min & *dripping*, on the three injectors. Post-test, they were all at 140cc/min.

On my drive into work today, fuel economy was back to "normal" (for my driving and my commute), and most importantly, all the bucking, jerking, and hesitation issues have been remedied!

Thanks for all the help! Pulling the injectors and re-installing them was a snap. I highly recommend it for cars that have over 100k if you're seeing a decline in gas mileage.

Best,
fly
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