Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgate
IamIan..
This would not be necessary on my proposal since the ICE would be in autostop and the car would initially pull off on the electric motor and could be driven this way up to its controlled max before the ICE came in.
By doing this the present clutch would be redundant.
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There's probably a few reasons why Honda didn't do a free-wheel system...
The first is that the original IMA motor was a lot thicker and that's one of the reasons they made the I1 ICE a 3 cylinder rather than a 4 cylinder, as the space given up by the extra cylinder was used by the IMA motor. The later IMA motors were thinner so the Civic and I2 have 4 cylinder ICEs again.
The second is that the IMA motor is used to start the ICE so a free-wheel device won't work (it can't apply reverse torque to start the ICE because it's free-wheeling). You'd need a secondary clutch or some kind of hydraulic lockup to allow the IMA to drive the ICE to start it and then the lockup would have to disengage to allow the ICE to run in free-wheel mode. The extra clutch and control system would have made the I1 even more expensive to make than it already was (and Honda lost money on every I1 they sold as it was).
The IMA was bolted on to the flywheel as a heat sink. Separating it would have meant dealing with the heat build-up in the IMA separately.
Lastly, I'm not sure how much power / shock a free-wheel drive can take. On a bicycle the driven gear is only receiving 60-100W of power at maybe 60 RPM with the driven gear doing about the same. So the potential engagement RPM differential is very low at the point where the free-wheel gear "bites". On a Civic the engagement differential potential is going to be high with the ICE having to get from idle (700 RPM) to maybe 3,000 RPM and match the speed in such a way that the rate of RPM change near the point of engagement isn't too high. If the rate of RPM change is high (the ICE is revving up too fast to match the driven gear speed) you might hit the engagement point hard and cause the car to jerk, or worse, strip the teeth on the free-wheel gear. The ICE is going to be practically unloaded all the way up to the engagement RPMs and then suddenly heavily loaded. This would mean the ECU will have a hard time getting the fueling right at the transition from no load to high load at the same RPMs.
When I had a manual geared car, I used to free-wheel sometimes on long highway hills but it's tricky to balance the throttle to bring the ICE up to the driven gear speed (or as close to it as you can manage) before letting the clutch out. You only need a little bit of throttle to make the engine race but as you let out the clutch and the engine takes up the load you have to apply a lot more throttle suddenly. Get it wrong and the car slows or surges suddenly and in both cases you burn up the clutch a bit. Mind you, lots of people drive like that all the time - Lifting off the throttle too soon when pulling in the clutch and forgetting to press the throttle before letting out the clutch during gear changes (giving that "face in the dash" gear change smoothness).
Bicycle free-wheel gears also make a ticking noise when free-wheeling which is the escapement lever clicking over the teeth backwards. This is fine in a gear only working at 60 RPM but will wear out one working at 3000 RPM. Not to mention the ticking noise becoming an annoying whine. No doubt there are other types of uni-directional drives that could be used but the cost and engineering problems should not be underestimated.
Compared to all that, devising a control mechanism to just shut the ICE valves, kill fuel delivery and use low friction cylinder linings and so on (which benefit ICE efficiency as well) are probably the best compromise between cost, complexity, and payback.
As a side note, people have been saying the Insight does not have this EV mode (with the valve-shutting). The I2
does do this and you can see on the drive information display as you are driving whether the system is in ICE, ICE+IMA or IMA mode so that you can modulate your right foot to produce the conditions that will allow you to "select" a drive mode.