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Old 10-07-2010, 05:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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At What mileage should the oil be changed for the first time?
I don't want to change it too soon and loose the break-in additives. But I don't want to leave it in too long.

Dose anyone use synthetic 5-30 in the summer, in hot climates. 0-20 will be like wd-40 when it is 105 out in traffic.
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Old 10-08-2010, 09:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by johnplus8 View Post
How do you replace the oil yourself?
Typically I'll let the dealer do the first 3 or 4 oil changes, If there is something that is going to cause a warranty problem with Honda it will be some rare thing that happens with in the first 15000 miles, if there are no problems then it's going to be along time after the warranty goes out before something major goes wrong.
After the 3rd or 4th oil change I do it my self because it is quicker for me to change the oil, rotate the tires and look it over than it is to drive to the dealer and wait. I do take pictures of the odometer and the old oil filter for records just in case.

Sorry I have to rant here,if your like me and don't like to here people complaining stop reading, I know I did, but my fingers are still typing.
I have never trusted dealers anyway, I have had one striped drain plug on a 90 Honda civic, The dealer tried to claim that It must of happened at a quick lube place, I told them to check there records, they did the last one. I had to wait while they replaced the oil pan. I wouldn't of minded there error if they had of just emitted it and not tried to shift the blame.

On my Subaru Baja the dealer over filled the oil by more than a quart and a half to the point it was foaming. The N/A Baja holds 4.5 quarts with filter I took in my own 5 quarts of Mobile 1, where did the other Quart come from
Called the dealer and they said it will be OK, I said the oil was foaming, they said not to worry. Then I discovered a light scratch on the hood that must of happened with there free had car wash with oil change, dirty sponge or a piece of jewelry must of cause it .
There is a lot more but I'll stop.
Complaint over sorry
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dntower85 View Post
At What mileage should the oil be changed for the first time?
I don't want to change it too soon and loose the break-in additives. But I don't want to leave it in too long.

Dose anyone use synthetic 5-30 in the summer, in hot climates. 0-20 will be like wd-40 when it is 105 out in traffic.
As somebody already mentioned the thickness of 5W20 or 0W20 is pretty much the same except for the cold start up benefit of the 0W20. Both oils are still a 20weight oil. The 0 or the 5 only states it's ability to crank easier when the engine is cold. BTW, there is no such thing as a miracle break in Oil anymore. This isn't a 57 Chevy that the rings have to seal properly. The tollerances of todays cars are so much tighter that a break in oil is no longer necessary. I even asked the Honda Service Rep when I had my Insight in for service and he said that it is regular Honda oil that is put in at factory.
He said to bring the car back when it says about 30 percent Oil life or about 7000 miles for it's first oil change. Mine is at 6800 miles and it still reads 40% oil life. I will change it at 7000 miles just for the peace of mind.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sabrina View Post
Hybrid owners can forget about this annoyance; the gas motors starts automatically when the battery gets low and proceeds to charge the battery - a hybrid never needs to be plugged into an outlet. Of course, if you forget to fill the tank…. Still, you can carry a gas can a half mile while a tow truck is necessary in a straight electric car.
?? This has what to do with an oil change???
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just to add another reference point for pricing. I changed my own oil last week.

Filter at Napa was ~$6
Mobil 0w-20 full synthetic was ~$8.50/qt (3x)

Add to that 8.75% sales tax because California is awesome and it comes to $35.

I did find that you can get to the drain bolt and the filter from the top of the engine which was neat. But you still need to pull the under body plastics which are kind of a pain to get to without a jack or any ramps, but still possible.
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:00 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If you are buying from NAPA, you will............."always".............overpay.

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Old 07-05-2011, 05:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I forgot to mention I got the oil at Kragen because Napa didn't have it in stock at the time.

Napa generally carries a bigger inventory of parts but their prices are higher. However they also have a 10% discount for AAA which makes the prices come out in a wash with their competitors.

I've found Autozone usually has the cheapest prices on parts and a reasonable inventory depending on the location. However I would not recommend their online store if you have the remote chance that the parts will need to be returned. The store and website are loosely connected and it is beyond ridiculous trying to return or cancel an order.
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Old 07-05-2011, 06:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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NAPA has certain things that I can't find other places, if I want an Amsoil product like the MTF transmission oil that I have in my car or if I want some automative paint color matched and not pay a ridiculous price for a pint. There have been times that getting a gasket for a different car I had to go there because all of the other auto shops didn't have it and even the dealer parts department said the gaskets been discontinued and out of stock for years(car hadn't been in production since 1997) but I found it at NAPA after looking at pretty much every possible place that I could go to try and pick one up on the same day.
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