Imac&c hch1 civic

[samwichse]

I find that there's not really much difference between 3 clicks and 4 clicks (~16 and ~23 amps) of the regen button, but the jump to 5 clicks (55 amps) is huge.

I do find the 2-3 clicks useful, but maybe we could split the difference for 3 and 5 for 4 clicks and do 32-35 amps (dunno what percent this corresponds to)?

Sam

[retepsnikrep]

I'm going to mount the buttons for my HCH1 IMAC&C in the steering wheel in the right thumb position. Probably use same three micro buttons but with altered software and hardware connection on the little board so I can make the three buttons work using only two wires.
As mine is a manual car it has a few wires free in the steering column cable reel for the connections. I want it to look very discrete and as stock as possible.

I'll use an adc input on the pic with a pull up 4k7 resistor on the input, then three momentary button switched resistors to gnd say 4k7, 2k2 and 1k to give three discrete voltages at the pic input depending on which button is pressed.

Need to find a nice place to stick the little black gubbins box with the led visible.

[samwichse]

Does your HCH have cruise control? If so you could probably put the box on the side of the cruise control pod and work them with your index, middle, and ring fingers.

I've found the e-brake mounting to work well since I've been using it. I can keep my hand on it easily and it's only a few inches to jump to the shifter. The back and forth rhythm seems to help keeping me from accidentally leaving full assist or regen on when I clutch it.

I like the idea of the alteration to two wires... doing so would also leave two free inputs on the PIC... one of which could be a clutch switch detect!

Sam

[Aqua]

Originally Posted by samwichse

Does your HCH have cruise control? If so you could probably put the box on the side of the cruise control pod and work them with your index, middle, and ring fingers.

I've found the e-brake mounting to work well since I've been using it. I can keep my hand on it easily and it's only a few inches to jump to the shifter. The back and forth rhythm seems to help keeping me from accidentally leaving full assist or regen on when I clutch it.

I like the idea of the alteration to two wires... doing so would also leave two free inputs on the PIC... one of which could be a clutch switch detect!

Sam

Samwichse, I remember reading on the hhc1 mima here that you could get the
Electric motor to power the car by itself, was it's just off idle and second gear? Could you elaborate more, just chug along as in parking lots ? so mima chosen assist is possible with the larger engine in time? No rush, just curious ,can't believe the hard work involve. Iam thankful.
Another thing? I've searched , do you know if any of the fas kill switch is friendly with hhc1? The main relay that shut the injectors in the glove box,
and their two, but they was another way that a bit slower kill. but the lights and speedo comes back on using a momentary switch on the fuel pump, the wire under the left driver side door, it's been done on the regular Honda civics. Question, So it would not be harmful for the hhc1 in killing the engine through the fuel pump?

[samwichse]

so mima chosen assist is possible with the larger engine in time?

Assuming I understand what you're asking (using the IMA motor to power the car manually), then: Not only is it possible, it's the purpose of the device Peter's created in this thread. You can maintain speed in any gear on level ground with electric, but not above about 30-35 mph (keep in mind you have a theoretical peak of about 12kw from the IMA motor and more likely something like 8-9kw). Also: anything but lower speed using 10-25% assist is going to drain your IMA battery really fast.

If you have the rpms over ~1200 and start giving manual assist, then tap the gas slightly, usually the OBDIIC&C will show INJ=0, meaning it's running in pure electric with the engine in fuel cut mode.

I try to use whatever gear puts me just above the fuel cut mode and use the minimum assist to maintain speed in that gear.

Also: WRT FAS, due to the aforementioned ability of the HCH1 to close the valves on 3 of its 4 cylinders when coasting in fuel cut mode, FAS would gain you much less with the hybrid than with the standard car, as there's not nearly as much pumping loss going on when you coast. When I want to coast I usually just leave it in fifth and hit the regen button once on the IMAC&C which disables regen.

Sam

[Aqua]

Originally Posted by samwichse

Assuming I understand what you're asking (using the IMA motor to power the car manually), then: Not only is it possible, it's the purpose of the device Peter's created in this thread. You can maintain speed in any gear on level ground with electric, but not above about 30-35 mph (keep in mind you have a theoretical peak of about 12kw from the IMA motor and more likely something like 8-9kw). Also: anything but lower speed using 10-25% assist is going to drain your IMA battery really fast.

If you have the rpms over ~1200 and start giving manual assist, then tap the gas slightly, usually the OBDIIC&C will show INJ=0, meaning it's running in pure electric with the engine in fuel cut mode.

I try to use whatever gear puts me just above the fuel cut mode and use the minimum assist to maintain speed in that gear.

Also: WRT FAS, due to the aforementioned ability of the HCH1 to close the valves on 3 of its 4 cylinders when coasting in fuel cut mode, FAS would gain you much less with the hybrid than with the standard car, as there's not nearly as much pumping loss going on when you coast. When I want to coast I usually just leave it in fifth and hit the regen button once on the IMAC&C which disables regen.

Sam

Thanks, glade to hear that first model e. Motor is up to the task, I would just be happy under 35 mph every now and then as I enjoys sight seening the island and video taping and cruising the beach front road, kind of hard to keep bumping the trottle and coasting at a few mph with a camcorder, Think this might be perfect for my means, plus time to recharge my battery pack in-between stops. thanks

[samwichse]

If you're interested, email retepsnikrep at the address in his signature for pricing... the assembly/installation is really very easy, although if you don't like soldering, he may be a able to give you a price for an assembled unit too.

Sam

[retepsnikrep]

My current price for IMAC&C for the HCH1 is $100 for the blank pcb and software licence/password.

Eli is my US/CAN dealer and he can provide an additional price for the components, complete kit or an assembled unit.
Or you can source the components yourself and or build the project on stripboard.

Sam my HCH1 does not have cruise control.

I'm tinkering with a schematic for a test version with a remote serial lcd and modified remote two wire analog buttons at the moment that will still fit in that neat little box. I'm looking at also tapping the clutch and brake wires with the two spare pic inputs the mod will provide to give better control to the cancel ima control/overide function.

I'm very busy upto christmas so prob won't get much done until January.

[samwichse]

Ok, one more feature request... some kind of ramping between regen speeds... related to that huge jump from 4->5 clicks of the button (24->55 amps regen... I'd still prefer the fourth click be more like 32-35 amps). It's just jarring going from one to another, but a "ramp" change between the settings of even 1/4-1/2 a second would significantly reduce drivetrain lash (and probably improve the life of my engine mounts!).

Sam

[retepsnikrep]

I will consider all the relevant feature requests when I get back to the project in due course.


I have deleted a lot of recent posts as unintelligible or no longer relevant.