The actual blank pcb is pretty cheap so i throw one in when you pay for access to the software. The price for that is $100.
Eli is my US supplier he will build you one for an additional fee, Sam has also agreed to help you.
Everything you need to do to build and install the board in the car is in this thread.
Don't forget you will need an PIC programmer if you wish to keep up with future software updates which are FOC. If you build the device yourself you will also need a programmer to program the pic in the first instance.
Thank for the info Sam, I think for me I will go with Pete or are you his USA distributor and builder? No matter what he said is good, the value fine, software, board, tested and assembled, and thread support, and software updates in progress. "The blank pcb and software access is $100 paypald to me at address in sig below.
A built and tested board is about another $100 on top but it's easy enough to source the parts and build it yourself a lot cheaper."
And Pete thank, I wanted just a ima controller manual, Regen,and low speed assist control, simple, don't want to get carried away and abuse my stock battery pack, hoping the open obd2 port is still functional for my dash command but not necessary. I will pay pal the 200.00. Pin me if it didn't get through.
Well, if you really want to build a board, the schematics are in this thread, you can make your own breadboard version like I did for initial testing.
The finished board is much nicer though.
Personally, I'm excited about getting the word out for this device, I'd be willing to populate a board for you at my cost plus shipping if you're interested. The actual parts that go on the board run $9.30 + shipping... you supply your own USB cable.
Sam
I'm very interested with what you might hook me up with, I'm willing to toy with stuff myself for cheaper so this is right up my alley! We should chat more maybe via email or that other way on here that I'm not so familiar with
So I'm correct in assuming this will run my civics electric engine when I want it to help out, like mima for insight?! This will be push button however which is a little different I'm reading. If I get the rights from peter that will hook me up to either build one or you can build it for me and then it will work for sure when I get it? All I have to do is wire it up How much were you thinking? Thank you for your willingness to get us working with these cars and their technology even more!
So I'm correct in assuming this will run my civics electric engine when I want it to help out, like mima for insight?! This will be push button however which is a little different I'm reading. If I get the rights from peter that will hook me up to either build one or you can build it for me and then it will work for sure when I get it? All I have to do is wire it up How much were you thinking? Thank you for your willingness to get us working with these cars and their technology even more!
Haven't got my delivery yet too early just laying the logistic down Iam assuming That my mini MIMA is coming with a USB spliced in, don't have a soldering iron, I use my trick that worked, peal off about 7" of 14 gage stranded wire, and vision a t where you attached the new wire I just pull tight and wrap around 3 ends tight and travel to 3 points repeat about 8 times solid connection It's copper, and rattle safe. tape and floss finish string wrap for tape unbinding.works for years.
Think Sam color coding say he not using a use cable wires,
So piecing its from many pages together all the bits is this the hook up assuming I get a USB attachments hook up.
Start on the E connecter harness of the ECUpull a few inches away. But before final check the harness picture to verified as they are a few same color wires,
1.ECU Brown/yellow G. -- to--black.USB 2. ECU yellow/blue + --to---Red USB /
3.Cut the red and yellow---- the closer cut from the ECU.the Red and yellow---to white USB. 4. And second cut side red/ yellow that goes to the ECM---green USB. Is this right?
Haven't got my delivery yet too early just laying the logistic down Iam assuming That my mini MIMA is coming with a USB spliced in, don't have a soldering iron, I use my trick that worked, peal off about 7" of 14 gage stranded wire, and vision a t where you attached the new wire I just pull tight and wrap around 3 ends tight and travel to 3 points repeat about 8 times solid connection It's copper, and rattle safe. tape and floss finish string wrap for tape unbinding.works for years.
Think Sam color coding say he not using a use cable wires,
So piecing its from many pages together all the bits is this the hook up assuming I get a USB attachments hook up.
Start on the E connecter harness of the ECUpull a few inches away. But before final check the harness picture to verified as they are a few same color wires,
1.ECU Brown/yellow G. -- to--black.USB 2. ECU yellow/blue + --to---Red USB /
3.Cut the red and yellow---- the closer cut from the ECU.the Red and yellow---to white USB. 4. And second cut side red/ yellow that goes to the ECM---green USB. Is this right?
There's not really a color coding for the USB cables... you can make whichever one go where it's supposed to go however you want... the most important thing is to get the header connections correct (although obviously red/black for +5v/GND is a no brainer for keeping it straight. I couldn't do this because I used CAT5e instead of a USB cable). It's been a while since I wired mine up... but the easiest way to make sure you've got it right is:
MCM side of the wire: hooked to the terminal block (J3) input that's attached to the only transistor on the board (pin 2)
ECM side: hooked to the other side (just a 330 ohm resistor). (pin 1)
+5v: is hooked to the input on the other block (J1) that goes to the removable jumper (pin 1)
GND: goes to the other input (pin 2)
I ran my cable first to make sure I had the length exactly as I wanted it... my final version includes a wide loop under the plastic and around one of the bolts holding things together behind the glove box for strain relief on connections under the dash. Then I made the connections under the dash, then I trimmed the other end and attached the IMAC&C box/board. I just wrote down what color was connected to what when I did the initial connections.
Was Hoping it had a USB wired solder on to my unit as I haven't a soldering iron, I brought a assembled unit and he did say just 4 wires to hook up. I know now you need to get a top of a line 2 into one soldering tip as the last one I brought just cook up the board. This is more tiny, I see what Pete says, while looking to the circuit board design points to solder.
The USB wire lay color match is from the beginning pages using the LED no LED now but Everything and the ECU wire color is the same, if not as you say just red and black is standard.
I did look under the dash and found the right wires that correspond to the 16 MOTA 5 and 3 pin harness it's the right color code, not much second color but unmistakable correct according to location, so I got that side sorted,
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Scott Orgeman Crumb
How much were you thinking? Thank you for your willingness to get us working with these cars and their technology even more!
