Trying to drive with IMA off but car is stalling out...

jaystock · 10-22-2011, 11:18 AM

My 2000 Honda Insight IMA battery is deteriorated (error codes 1447 and 1449) and I tried to disconnect the IMA computer and turn off the IMA Frankenstein switch. Unfortunately, both before and after doing this, my car has had voltage problems. Every couple days, the car stalls out and requires a jump. First the radio becomes intermittent, then the power steering and dash light go, and finally the engine stalls.

I've been to three separate Honda dealers, and their only suggestion has been to replace the IMA battery, which I can not afford. Is there an alternative? I've also chewed through a couple 12 Volt batteries, so something is definitely wrong with the way the battery is being charged or discharged.

Is it possible to successfully drive a 2000 Insight without the IMA? What is the proper way to disable the IMA such that the car can be driven using only the 12-Volt battery to power all the electrical systems? I'm on the verge of junking the car, which I would really hate to do, so any advice you can lend me would be hugely helpful!

Ecfool · 10-22-2011, 02:05 PM

Some times I read posts here "my battery has the dreaded code of death, I need to disconnect the IMA", why? it only makes the car harder to live with and if you cant afford to replace battery whats to be gained? My 2001 CVT has had batttery degradition code for some time IMA light comes on and some times "check engine" light also. What I do ? Sometimes read codes with scan tool to verify nothing new bad happening, other whys just reset system via negative cable and back on commute, life goes on untill I can replace battery, so what for crimminy sakes its a car to commute to work in cheaply. Over 140000 miles on it now and second battery but stilll dependable commute car (daily commute of over 70 miles).

Willie Williford · 10-22-2011, 05:34 PM

I agree. Why panic. Just "KEEP ON TRUCKIN".

Willie

kennysmith · 10-22-2011, 07:10 PM

He says that before and after disconnecting things it was dying and requiring jumps. Sounds undependable and frustrating. I think he needs more help. I think the car should be drivable for a long time with a bad battery before DC-DC converter won't work so I suspect something else is going on. Possibly bad ground wires?

Don't give up yet, others around here have the advice you need.

Eli · 10-22-2011, 07:25 PM

I responded to your email, but will post here also.

Something I didn't mention in my email is ground straps. I should have clarified if the red 12V battery light on the dash is coming on. If it is NOT, then either the light is burned out or you have ground strap issues.

Disconnecting the BCM like I outlined in my email should keep the DC-DC converter on, but this isn't going to do much if the power is having trouble getting into the 12V battery.

Check all 3 ground straps; the two under the air box from chassis to engine/transmission, and the one from the 12V battery to the chassis. The one from the 12V battery to the chassis is notorious for corroding internally, which isn't visible from the outside.

Eli · 10-22-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ecfool

Some times I read posts here "my battery has the dreaded code of death, I need to disconnect the IMA", why? it only makes the car harder to live with and if you cant afford to replace battery whats to be gained? My 2001 CVT has had batttery degradition code for some time IMA light comes on and some times "check engine" light also. What I do ? Sometimes read codes with scan tool to verify nothing new bad happening, other whys just reset system via negative cable and back on commute, life goes on untill I can replace battery, so what for crimminy sakes its a car to commute to work in cheaply. Over 140000 miles on it now and second battery but stilll dependable commute car (daily commute of over 70 miles).

I agree overall, but the battery can deteriorate to the point where it throws the IMA light immediately. But yes, the car should be able to be driven indefinitely with a bad IMA system, just a matter of ensuring that the DC-DC stays on.

I'm leaning towards a ground strap issue in this case, as you only have a few tens of miles once the 12V battery light comes on. It sounds like his 12V battery slowly dies, but the DC-DC is still operating. Yep, ground straps.

Willie Williford · 10-22-2011, 10:00 PM

Monitor the 12V batterry either with a scangauge or an instrument that plugs into the 12V accessory plug. (I've got one that I bought at Walmart and it is very handy for trouble shooting.) Like ELI said especially check the ground straps. If they look OK, loosen the bolts that connect them, spray them with WD40 or something similar and retighten. Sometime, especially in the "salt on the road" areas, corrosion is your enemy. I don't ever remember of a DC-DC converter going out.
HTH
Willie

hichamkhalili · 10-25-2011, 06:56 PM

Hi guys I need assistance, I have a 2001 honda insight I am trying to drive without the IMA. I disconnected the BCM and aslo trurned off the battery, but the battery and break light still on. I drove it today for about half hour it was driving fine but the battery light is still on and i have a battery tester that I plug through the cigarette lighter and it reads that the battery needs to be charged.
does this mean the dc-dc converter is not charging the 12v? and how do I check the ground starp for the battery?
thank you in advance

Eli · 10-25-2011, 06:59 PM

If the red 12V battery light on the dash is on, it means the DC-DC isn't operating.

I am not sure if the battery switch needs to be on or off with the BCM disconnected. Try on, and see if that makes the battery light go out? The problem isn't with the ground straps if the 12V battery light is on, though it doesn't hurt to check them.

They're kinda under the airbox area.

hichamkhalili · 10-25-2011, 07:12 PM

thanks for the prompt answer Eli, I will try to turn the battery on and check if it works.