Check Engine Light =2xP1164 Error Code =Strange

[Lafter]

A little history

On 10-2-11 I changed my oil and added to much oil … I used the larger Mobile 1 Filter and added 3 quarts instead of 2.6 .. (tonight I plan on removing .4 when I get home).

On 10-3-11 in the AM heading to work I over fill my car with gasoline trying to top it off.. (yes I am an idiot).

On 10-3-11 in the PM on my way home my car’s check engine light comes on .. my fuel economy drops about 10mpg.

On 10-4-11 in the AM I swing by Auto Zone and run the code .. I get 2 P1164 Errors.. After doing my research I figure my next step is to clear the code and hope it doesn’t come back or replace the LAF.

On 10-4-11 in the PM I get home and smell rotten eggs coming from my car ..the smell is very strong.

On 10-5-11 in the AM I continue to smell rotten eggs from my car every time I turn it off and get out.

On 10-5-11 in the PM the check engine lights go out (I did not have them cleared) .. my fuel economy returns to normal .. but I still smell rotten eggs.

On 10-7-11 in the AM fuel economy is still normal .. no check engine lights .. no smell.

My theory is this .. I over filled the tank causing the fuel pressure to increase .. causing the P1164 errors.

What I don’t get is how the errors cleared themselves.

Can anyone explain what happened?

[Eli]

Fuel pressure is regulated by the fuel pressure regulator, overfilling the tank will have no effect.

The ECM constantly evaluates the condition of the engine's sensors. If whatever caused the P1164 to be thrown didn't happen again on 3 consecutive drive cycles, the CEL will be cleared though the DTC will still be stored in memory.

[AbCaRed00]

Originally Posted by Lafter

A little history
.... added to much oil
..... check engine light comes on .. .... economy.... about 10mpg.
.....2 P1164 Errors....
....smell rotten eggs ...very strong.
...every time I turn it off and get out.
... check engine lights go out.....fuel economy returns to normal ....still smell rotten eggs.

On 10-7-11 .... no check engine lights .. no smell.

What I don’t get is how the errors cleared themselves.

Can anyone explain what happened?

Interesting, ....glad no hard to replace seals were blown

Possible scenario in engine:
...overfilled oil pushed past worn guides, ..oil partially burned in combustion, ...fouled LAF sensor & likely cats downstream, ...stoichiometry went to the fat side, ...cats then clogged more.. threw codes, ... car needs run rich to burn residue in cats...mileage bad

The hydrogen sulfide gas H2S a.k.a rotten egg smell produced in absence of O2 takes scant ppm of the poisonous gas to smell. Your sense of smell will attenuate with acute exposure and in some cases only others where you roll up will notice the odor.
...after some vehicle use running up to hot operating temperature, the heat burned the contamination ..., functional again, yay......
after 3x good as stated ECU does code self reset as programmed ,...
///remaining residue continues burning off...
... stink persists with diminishing output to point of extinction
_____________
Hope the ERG plate will be ok.
Any jerkiness following up?
Did you actually remove the extra oil as planned? ... a Fumoto drain valve is perfect for that scenario.

Larger Mobile 1 filter?? What size? p/n
TIA

[Lafter]

Originally Posted by AbCaRed00

Hope the ERG plate will be ok.
Any jerkiness following up?
Did you actually remove the extra oil as planned? ... a Fumoto drain valve is perfect for that scenario.

Larger Mobile 1 filter?? What size? p/n
TIA

So far no jerkiness .. The car is running as good as ever.

I did remove the extra oil .. and I do have a Fumoto drain valve installed .. it does make mistakes like that easy to fix.

the larger oil filter is the Mobil 1 M1-110 .. reference this thread for a list of larger filters that will work. Larger Oil Filters

[Willie Williford]

That much overfill on the oil will have no effect on how the engine runs, With the bigger filter you are better off with that amount.
I have been using a CIVIC oil filter in the G1 Insight for years. It is a little larger than the original one. All this is based on experience, not theory.
HTH
Willie

[AbCaRed00]

Glad day when things work out well. Thanks for the link to that thread:
there's quite a selection possible in the list of the filter manufacturers and P/N.
Thanks.
I note the '95 Civic filter's longer too mentioned there plus some other marque's vehicles fit ours.
I think I'll try the M1-110 Mobile 1 one first.
_______________________
To help prevent overfilling fluids when there's a partial volume involved I now transfer the last partial amount into the first empty container by measuring on the level from #'s on the side of the first container. Then, can dump that last fractional amount in holus bolus.
It's faster for me that way, more accurate and eliminates tipping in small portions; all that remains is starting up, revving a bit and checking for leaks and level.
I'd recommend filter changes with each oil change.

[eddgie]

I agree with Willie that a .4 quart overfill won't cause this problem, and it doesn't matter how much oil you put in the crankcase, the oil pump only lifts up x quarts a minute based on the RPM of the crankshaft. The oil IMMEDIATLY drains out of the head after it gets pressed though the valve train galleries and bearings. It immediatly drains by gravity back to the crank, so no amount of overfilling will result in more oil in the head at any given engine RPM.

The LAF sensor might be going bad, but there is anoter possibility.

I have not had a Honda LAF out, but most commonly, sensors like this have cover over the sensor element similar to a typical O2 sensor. This shields the element from the direct blast effects of the exaust gas.

Often, the little windows on an O2 sensor will get covered with a coating of ash. At some point, some of this ash may break away and get inside the cover next to the sensor element causing the element to not read properly.

A few thousand more combustion cycles can oblierate the ash and the sensor will start working again.

Honestly, I think a lot of O2 Sensors in the world get replaced for this reason.

My Jaguar XJS was thowing an O2 sensor code about 6 months ago for the rear sensor. Second one in about a month. Reset the first with my ODB2 reader.

After the second time, I pulled it out, and the holes around the sensor element were partially obstruced with ash (mostly actually).

I used a wire brush and small knife to clean the outside of the cover, and scrape all of the ash from the holes (about 8 little holes as I recall). I blew the residue out with compressed air, put it back in, reset the code, and no codes since.

So, could just be ash in the holes on the cover over the sensor element.

If it comes back, I would pull it and clean the holes.