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Old 12-15-2011, 12:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default IMA/Dead Battery Pack

Hello All,

I'm looking for advice on how to find a solution for fixing an old battery pack, or possibly taking a different route.

I've read through some of the forums here. I am six months and 3,000 miles past the warranty. I've tried calling several dealerships and called Honda Customer service, and no one is willing to budge with any sort of assistance.

I was driving it this past week with a dead battery out of necessity, but this morning the car wouldn't start at all. Is there a way to disconnect the battery pack and drive it without the assist?

There is no way at this point for me to afford the repair, especially since I'm going to loose my current job without transportation, so besides driving without the assist, I was also looking for suggestions on where to maybe sell the car piecemeal, or to someone who deals in Insight parts. It has a new exhaust system, and I just put a new transmission in it (both repairs combined totaled $5,000), which makes it extremely disappointing that I'm probably going to have to give up the car.

I'm currently in Portland, ME.
------

Moved to correct forum

Moderator Eli

Last edited by Eli; 12-15-2011 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 12-15-2011, 01:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi, welcome to the forum.

There is a massive amount of information written here about how to deal with "fixing and old battery pack".

First of all what does that mean exactly, are you showing IMA, what are the codes -etc.

And once you answer those questions, search the forums to the answers. For instance I just drove 2356 miles with no battery pack, just the Bypass Board. But it will not pass state inspection so I'll have to put in a good battery pack, which I just happen to have.

Keep on reading, good luck
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Don't even think about selling your precious!

You can drive it without the battery pack working. Details to follow after lunch...
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Insight #2 - Silver '01 5MT @ 450,000 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 86.0MPG over 800mi

Insight #3 - Silver '00 5MT, MIMA #163P, BCM Gauge, OBDIIC&C Gauge, BetterBattery @ 228,869 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 78.4mpg over 687mi
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Old 12-15-2011, 03:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Alllllrightythen..

So first we need to figure out why your car wouldn't start. A dead IMA battery shouldn't prevent it from starting, and you should be able to drive it for some time once the IMA light comes on.

The only concern regarding driving with the IMA light on is - eventually the pack will become so deteriorated that the DC-DC converter is shut down, causing the red 12V battery light on the dash to illuminate. This is akin to the alternator going out on a regular car.

There is a simple procedure that you can perform involving disconnecting three connectors. That will stop the DC-DC from being shut down, allowing you to drive the car indefinitely as a non-hybrid - until you can save up for a battery, that is.
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Insight #1 - Silver '01 5MT @ 158,388 as of 7/11 - Best Tank: 84.5MPG over 807mi

Insight #2 - Silver '01 5MT @ 450,000 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 86.0MPG over 800mi

Insight #3 - Silver '00 5MT, MIMA #163P, BCM Gauge, OBDIIC&C Gauge, BetterBattery @ 228,869 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 78.4mpg over 687mi

Last edited by Eli; 12-15-2011 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Therubycanary View Post
There is no way at this point for me to afford the repair, especially since I'm going to loose my current job without transportation
First and foremost, your car can be made to run minimally for very little or maybe no money. Then, if you actually have a bad battery, you can save up for one of our BetterBattery modules which cost $2000.

Give us a call tomorrow to discuss how to determine what is actually wrong with the car and what can be done to fix it cheaply.

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Old 12-16-2011, 09:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Therubycanary View Post
There is no way at this point for me to afford the repair, especially since I'm going to loose my current job without transportation, so besides driving without the assist, I was also looking for suggestions on where to maybe sell the car piecemeal, or to someone who deals in Insight parts.

I'm currently in Portland, ME.
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I live about 50 miles away from Portland Maine. Assuming you are stranded at this point, if you like, I could drive up there and help you disconnect the BCM connectors so that you can drive it like a normal car (without assist and regen).... Your 12v battery under the hood will have to be in good shape since it will be responsible for starting the car using the typical starter motor and it is getting colder in our area. You will have a check engine light but I am assuming you already have that anyway and if you recently passed inspection, you should be able to drive this way for another year so you can determine what you want to do for the repair.

Please send me a Private Message with your contact information if you need assistance. I do not check this forum many times a day so if you need a more immediate response, Google the two words: appmate software
Then call the company phone number listed on the website that you find listed near the top of the page (it will be obvious - due to automated robots used to gather information on the internet, I prefer not to post my business number directly in a forum)

JoeCVT = Just your average CVT owner
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Last edited by joecvt; 12-16-2011 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info so far.

I was driving the car with the IMA light on, and the battery drained completely after about a week. The car was still driving fine, and I was using it for quick drives trying not to put too much strain on it.

When I got out of work the other morning, the car wouldn't start, and I don't know if it's related to the battery or not. The regular car battery is working, because the radio and headlights work. When I turned the key, all the lights on the dash started blinking, there was a horrible clicking noise from both the front and the back of the car. It could be a starter I guess.

At this point I can't stand to put anymore money in this car, as much as I've enjoyed driving it. I just put a whole new exhaust and o2 sensors in it two years ago, and new transmission last year. For how much money I've put into this thing, I probably could have bought two decent used cars. The repairs have totally negated any savings I've had on gas at this point.

Joe, if you are willing to help, I am currently stranded. My car has been left at work, and hopefully it's busy enough they haven't noticed yet. My brother in law may be helping me tow it to my apartment this weekend.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Therubycanary View Post
Joe, if you are willing to help, I am currently stranded. My car has been left at work, and hopefully it's busy enough they haven't noticed yet. My brother in law may be helping me tow it to my apartment this weekend.
Don't tow it. It's a 20 minute fix to make it run on gas only.
All you need to do is turn off the main switch and pull 3 headers on the BCM.
Talk to Ron at Hybrid Battery Repair. I beleive he has illustrated instructions.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Therubycanary View Post
Joe, if you are willing to help, I am currently stranded. My car has been left at work, and hopefully it's busy enough they haven't noticed yet. My brother in law may be helping me tow it to my apartment this weekend.
Disconnect your 12V battery for 30 seconds. When you reconnect it, the car will reevaluate your battery and will properly charge your 12V for a while - long enough to get home at a minimum. So start the car on the IMA battery (your 12V will have enough power to toggle the relays and start it) and then let it sit for 20-30 minutes charging the 12V. Keep an eye out for the 12V battery light (little red light). Since you are not discharging the IMA battery, it should keep running without your P1449 error. Once you start driving it, all bets are off, but with a full 12V, you'll make it home.

Then disconnect the BCM and start saving for a BetterBattery. You'll get about 45-55 city with the battery disconnected and mid 60s on the highway depending on how you drive.
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Therubycanary View Post
Thanks for the info so far.

When I got out of work the other morning, the car wouldn't start, and I don't know if it's related to the battery or not. The regular car battery is working, because the radio and headlights work. When I turned the key, all the lights on the dash started blinking, there was a horrible clicking noise from both the front and the back of the car. It could be a starter I guess.
I'm thinking that you have a weak or pretty much dead 12V battery, the IMA system can hid it pretty well. But now that the IMA is gone it is showing the dead 12V battery to be an issue. I'd pull it and take it to Autozone or somewhere else and have them test the 12V, I'll bet it is bad. Mine did the same thing, was fine and then all the lights on the dash when crazy one morning and it was dead. New battery took care of the issue.
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