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Old 01-13-2012, 08:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Just got a "New" battery from Honda.

So I've gotten a "new" battery via the Honda TSB warranty and have had it for a week. I got it back in the middle of a snowstorm on Monday and was probably a bit harder on the assist then normal. Especially getting the car out of the driveway through the 6+ inches of fresh snow Tuesday morning. For most of Tuesday's travels, the SOC hung out near the middle of the gauge.

Then on Wednesday, I discovered that the 12v battery clamps were basically shot. The negative cable had popped off the 12v terminal No more tightening was possible due to the thin metal getting all bent out of shape over the years. I bought a new cable with the good lead clamps for the negative side, and a build it yourself clamp for the positive side. It was kinda chilly when I got home and it was going to be warmer today so I put off changing them out.

So, of course, my wife called this morning. On her way into work in the BMW, she had to swerve around a truck that pulled out in front of her and found a pothole. She continued the 1/4 mile to work and then called me. I hopped into the Insight and went to see what made the loud noises she reported from the BMW*. Every time I stopped and shut off the Insight, I had to pop the hood and put the 12v negative battery cable back on. Which of course reset the SOC. Before this all started, the SOC was down about 4-5 bars. After the forced resets, the SOC would charge 4 bars a couple times and then into a positive recal.

What I wonder, does the battery pack actually get up to a full (80%) charge during the reset? Or does it just put in power for a period of time and then recal?

* Turned out to the rear front lower control bushing. That I just had replaced a few weeks ago. Thanks to FedEx Home Delivery incompetence, I have a free replacement. They dropped the first shipment off at one of the houses down the street somewhere. I contacted FedEx, who ran a trace and then recommended that I have the vendor reship. RockAuto shipped me a second one free and it made it safely to my door. A week or so ago, my landlord showed up with the original shipment. RockAuto said to keep it. I guess that worked out OK.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wade.Moeller View Post
No more tightening was possible due to the thin metal getting all bent out of shape over the years.

Get a pair of channel locks, and bend the battery cable circle clamp into a slight oval. Then re install onto the battery. The oval portion will clamp down and hold the battery terminal tight, sometimes better then when they were new.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade.Moeller View Post
What I wonder, does the battery pack actually get up to a full (80%) charge during the reset? Or does it just put in power for a period of time and then recal?
The battery pack will be charged until its voltage indicates that it is near the top charge level (~80%). Then the charge level gauge will recalibrate up to probably 19 bars (not sure it will reach 20 bars unless regen occurs during a long descent). So disconnecting the 12 v. battery really should result in the battery pack being charged to nearly full.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aisbell View Post
The battery pack will be charged until its voltage indicates that it is near the top charge level (~80%). Then the charge level gauge will recalibrate up to probably 19 bars (not sure it will reach 20 bars unless regen occurs during a long descent). So disconnecting the 12 v. battery really should result in the battery pack being charged to nearly full.
This is my understanding as well.
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Get a pair of channel locks, and bend the battery cable circle clamp into a slight oval. Then re install onto the battery. The oval portion will clamp down and hold the battery terminal tight, sometimes better then when they were new.
The nut and bolt on the negative was froze up solid. I wouldn't have been able to get the clamp back on. Plus I just don't trust those foil clamps. I had a boss poking around under the hood of his car and the clamp broke off were it goes from the crimp to the loop. That bend had corroded to literally nothing. The new cable/clamp has no exposed wiring so there won't be any corrosion breaking off the individual conductors.

The only issue was that the hole in the ring end was larger then the OEM so I have to put in a washer to make sure it holds right and the bolt doesn't pull through.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Greetings! I am new to this site. Wondering what to do about my
IMA light staying on....Is it time for my 2000 insight to receive a new battery, or can I just change cables or something?
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Read the CEL codes first. (Auto stores can do this but not the MSC ones)
Let us know what it is, then the fun begins.
Sit down, relax, and start reading the thousands of threads here at ICN. I'm sure others will assist in your quest for definate answers, but now that you have a G1, it is time to learn, gather knowledge, and become one of the "selected minorities"......G1 Owners.
HTH
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default planete....IMA light stays on

Suppose Napa auto store, or Baxters auto could read the codes....so I will check today, thanks

Michael, http://www.insightcentral.net/forums...s/rolleyes.gif
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