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Old 05-31-2012, 01:41 AM   #21 (permalink)
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ok, thanks!

how exactly do i "disable" the BCM? do I just unplug it? do i take it out? is there a particular plug i need to pull? something else?

a walkthru of this exact process with pics would be so helpful, haha.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:36 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Try this link good insight mechanic near chapel hill nc? really good pictures of what connectors to unplug. FYI GASMIZR has been running great for past 8 months now with IMA bypassed and even with A/C no problems with 12 volt system charging suffficiantly. You actually adjust to keeping RPMs under 4000 to keep brake and battery light off, actually helps mileage some but without IMA CVT is a slug from stop acceleration so leave room at busy intersections.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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well, i did it!

and as was stated, it was a lot easier than i thought

i was of course careful to disconnect the 12V battery and make sure the IMA switch was shut off properly.

following the 2 sets of instructions linked to in this thread proved to be perfect.

it took about an hour or so. the longest part was putting it back together, because those damn T-30 holes on the passenger side just refused to line up. i probably spent about 20 minutes fussing with those alone.

the rest went super smoothly. thank you for all your help.

fingers crossed that my drive to work tomorrow goes well!
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Now just remember that if you rev the engine up to 4K RPM the red 12V battery light will come on indicating that the 12V system is not being charged. Don't worry, once you lower the RPM it takes about 30 seconds to reset and then the light should go back out. It is a safety built in to keep you from over charging the 12v system since the IMA battery isn't able to absorb the extra current.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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ok, thanks!

does it do any damage to rev above 4K on a regular basis?

i have gotten used to driving with so little power by revving high, do i need to relearn how to drive?

or is the light just a minor inconvenience?
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:58 PM   #26 (permalink)
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No the above 4k rpm does no damage, it is just that the DC/DC converter shuts down above 4k rpm. It only lasts about 45-60 seconds, and while it is shut down the Emergency Brake light and the Battery Light both are on. It you have a way of measuring the 12 v battery it is probably a good idea to do so, just to make sure it is charged. Use a Scangauge, something that plugs into the aux power port etc.
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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i dont own a scan guage, maybe ill get one

what is the benefit to monitoring the 12V battery? i do carry an emergency jump pack around, just in case
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:35 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Just drive up here some saturday, and I can guide you through the process.
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:47 AM   #29 (permalink)
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You really don't need to measure the 12v system. I don't use FAS to shut down and my engine and just use the key to shut it off. This also cuts the DC-DC and my 12v system doesn't drop voltage enough for me to worry about it and I'm doing it for minutes at a time, in the winter, with my headlights on. 30 seconds of the DC-DC not operating in order to accelerate when you need to is no big deal IMHO.

Keep in mind that the car sets the redline to 5500RPM, which is about 60MPH in 2nd gear instead of the usual 6300RPM to protect the system from being exposed to too high of a voltage. I don't think there is much to worry about here. Those warning lights shut off and it's all normal after the 30 seconds of time under 4000RPM. I never worried about it when I was driving with the IMA light on.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:20 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN Driver View Post
You really don't need to measure the 12v system. I don't use FAS to shut down and my engine and just use the key to shut it off. This also cuts the DC-DC and my 12v system doesn't drop voltage enough for me to worry about it and I'm doing it for minutes at a time, in the winter, with my headlights on. 30 seconds of the DC-DC not operating in order to accelerate when you need to is no big deal IMHO.

Keep in mind that the car sets the redline to 5500RPM, which is about 60MPH in 2nd gear instead of the usual 6300RPM to protect the system from being exposed to too high of a voltage. I don't think there is much to worry about here. Those warning lights shut off and it's all normal after the 30 seconds of time under 4000RPM. I never worried about it when I was driving with the IMA light on.
Agreed. The 12 volt battery will support the normal loads of the car, including headlights, for at least an hour or more. 30 seconds is nothing. At this point just drive the car...
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