2000 with 2006 engine. The camshaft broke on the 2000 at 100,500 miles. Located new engine and replaced, after 30 months of sitting. (Now I know that there is a process of reconditioning the battery) Started the engine everything was great, mileage increased from 52.5 to 55. After 3000 miles the IMA came on. I disconnected the two wire connectors on the front side of the BCM. All was great for 2000 miles. Actually the mileage increased from 55 to 57, though without the assist I could not maintain 60 mph up hills. Then one day the mileage dropped to 35. It would be 35 mpg intermittent with days of 55 mpg. Still, good enough to live with. Then...one day while driving about two miles it dies. I restart and it goes about 50 yards and dies again. I repreat this process until I get back home. The OBD II autoscanner tells me P1648 and P1129. As the Beatles said, Help I need somebody.
I just need the car to get me to and from work, a trip of 27 miles each way. I can live without the IMA.
I have replaced the MAP sensor and ground straps, no avail. Is it the ECM? If I replace it do I need a dealer to program it to recognize the keys?
That meet was back in early September. There will probably be something similar sometime in 2013. In the future it would be best to post your troubleshooting questions in the "problems and troubleshooting" thread to be most likely to get help.
2000 with 2006 engine. The camshaft broke on the 2000 at 100,500 miles. Located new engine and replaced, after 30 months of sitting. (Now I know that there is a process of reconditioning the battery) Started the engine everything was great, mileage increased from 52.5 to 55. After 3000 miles the IMA came on. I disconnected the two wire connectors on the front side of the BCM. All was great for 2000 miles. Actually the mileage increased from 55 to 57, though without the assist I could not maintain 60 mph up hills. Then one day the mileage dropped to 35. It would be 35 mpg intermittent with days of 55 mpg. Still, good enough to live with. Then...one day while driving about two miles it dies. I restart and it goes about 50 yards and dies again. I repreat this process until I get back home. The OBD II autoscanner tells me P1648 and P1129. As the Beatles said, Help I need somebody.
I just need the car to get me to and from work, a trip of 27 miles each way. I can live without the IMA.
I have replaced the MAP sensor and ground straps, no avail. Is it the ECM? If I replace it do I need a dealer to program it to recognize the keys?
Ok, I took a look at the codes in the manual. The p1129 code is "MAP signal too high." As you note, replacing the MAP sensor didn't fix the problem, so I'm not sure where to do next.
The P1648 codes are related to having the BCM plugs disconnected - I think. Running without the IMA battery isn't "free." You will always get dash CEL codes when you bypass the battery in this manner.
I still think your current problem is probably caused by a bad 12v battery, probably made worse by increasingly cold temperatures.
I'm going to try to get this thread moved to the proper section, so check the "problems and troubleshooting" section in the future.
The OBD II autoscanner tells me P1648 and P1129.
Is it the ECM?
If I replace it do I need a dealer to program it to recognize the keys? There seemed to be a thread on that but unfortunately can't find it.
Welcome Michael. Not sure on the keys for sure but perhaps the door locks pdf in the repair manual may tell.
The pdf info sheets from the repair manual for DTC [flash codes] P1648[-64] or P1648[-75] will require sorted out by DTC flash code; and the P1129 pdf's are linked as well from this diagnostic code spreadsheet here.
If you can tell from the flashcode a 6-4 or a 7-5 [for long-short blinks] then record that, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for half a minute to clear the DTC codes, reconnect terminal firmly, and restart the car and observe any codes throw anew or repeated.
Search for recent thread for 'disconnecting BCM' battery control module to find out how to safely remove the IMA from the picture. Be safe & Best of luck.
If you were to change the ECM then you would need to have a matching key, which contains the immobilizer chip, cut at a Honda dealer. But, I don't see reasons in these codes to suspect the ECM. There is a test work around for the immobilizer in which you use a different ECM and tape the matching key to the car's ignition key. Supposedly, the immobilizer loop which is in the key bezel will pick up the signal.
Do the 12v battery tests first and go on from there.
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P1129&P1648, Car Stalls - Help
