Wait - of course you're not going to have any voltage on the 12V side if the DC-DC isn't on. If it was the wires, you should be able to measure ~13.8V at the DC-DC output. Is that the case?
Check to make sure the DC-DC has power. Here's a post on how to run it on the bench.
Wait - of course you're not going to have any voltage on the 12V side if the DC-DC isn't on. If it was the wires, you should be able to measure ~13.8V at the DC-DC output. Is that the case?
DC-DC output is always zero, per your photos in the other thread I should be able to attach the DC DC output straight to the battery and if it is getting power in (which it should be since the fuse is good) it should be able to output 13.8v give or take depending on the other signals that come in.
Does this sound correct? It makes no sense to me why the battery connectors would be switched, unless there was some sort of parasitic loss.
(aka it should read as 12v battery voltage in my mind)
The DC-DC power wires are separate from it's output. It needs to see 12V in order to power up and begin converting the HVDC to 12VDC. I was saying you should try and hook the DC-DC up independent of the car and see if you get 13.8V on the output. You could also check to make sure you have power on the car side of the DC-DC's harness.
It sounds like there might be an open connection, causing the DC-DC to not get power.
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Bumblebee Batteries, LLC - Helping your hybrid get from point A to point Bee!
I ran a quick test hooking the hot off the dc-dc to the battery up front the quick and dirty way, charges right up, red battery light goes off.
Easiest diagnosis ever, now the fun part of rigging a new cable through the tub, door and firewall.
I will need to check the fuse block first (75amp right) my guess is either the hot cable, the fuse block or both are intermittant junk since the fuse appears to be fine, will double check.
Not sure about the unibody damage? The wheel well liners you can get from Majestic Honda online but they will be a little pricey. Might be able to find one from a junk yard for cheaper but you'll have to be watching and catch it right then.
So I pulled my battery cover this weekend, turned off the IMA switch and disconneted all three of the plugs from the BCM. Car is starting on the 12v starter and running with no Red brake/battery light. Hope you can get yours working too.
I thought that the IMA switch had to be on. Not true?
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Rush
#1 - 2000 Silver #4965, not working now, 175k Miles, 61 LMPG - will probably turn into all Electric
#2 - 2000 Silver #4095, 212k Miles, 55 LMPG, OBDIIC&C by Peter, GCIM1 by Mike, New MaxIMA by Eli www.TucsonEV.com
Tucson AZ
I thought that the IMA switch had to be on. Not true?
I kept getting the red brake/battery light when my IMA battery went below about 148V, from everything I've ready the IMA stays off when you disconnect the BCM and mine in is running fine. Starting on the 12v battery, ran it at night with lights on, ran it today with AC on all good.
I guess I can flip the battery switch back on but I don't see what good it will do with the BCM disconnected? I don't think it will start the car using the IMA battery if I turn it on but BCM is disconnected?
[QUOTE=rmay635703;245340]Yes there is an open connection...
I ran a quick test hooking the hot off the dc-dc to the battery up front the quick and dirty way, charges right up, red battery light goes
Any chance that you took any pics of which wires that you used and if it turned out?
Any speedometer issues before, like not working?
Brake and battery light on all the time or flashing or intermittent for me! Driving us crazy.
Tom
Any chance that you took any pics of which wires that you used and if it turned out?
Any speedometer issues before, like not working?
Brake and battery light on all the time or flashing or intermittent for me! Driving us crazy.
Tom
The dash would eventually shut off but when it did the motor usually would as well since the battery was totally dead.
Anyway.
I don't see any need to photograph what I hooked up, they are listed in the wiki and on any of the threads dealing with wiring up an amp.
In the rear of the car under the big circuit breaker, you take off the cover and on the drivers side there is the DC DC converter, it has a positive (orange) and negative set of big connectors off the back with 2 larger guage battery cables.
I routed a 6 guage wire from the battery through the fender well to the rear of the car through the drivers side channel under the door into the rear box and attached a new positive battery cable right off the battery under the hood directly to the dc dc. Everything works great, I just am getting rather craptaskic mileage as an insight goes.
Plugs, egr and pcv are all likely suspect.
The alignment probably is as well. I used liquid steel on the unibody to stop leaks but otherwise besides missing and lugging at lower RPMs it chugs right along.
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