01 Insight 12v battery won't charge w/ or w/out BCD trick

[rmay635703]

I just got this

12V not charging, DC/DC replacement failed

insight home and have enjoyed the brief trips I can make.

The car refuses to charge the 12v battery. I have tried various combinations of the Big switch and both BCD connectors,

With both off and the switch off (aka the BCD disable) it still refuses to charge. I ran some wire from ground points (that were obvious) back to the battery ground itself, on my other problematic car a Miles ZX40 this brought the car to life, in this case no affect. The big red battery light is always on

I was told that the harness was damaged, it appears to have some cracks but nothing serious, the car also has some water damage in the dash panel (looks like LCD burnout like when you press too hard on an lcd) and I was told water leaking into the foot area may have damaged some electronics, as of yet I can find nothing of this type.

The car has a longer run time with the switch on and the BCD enabled, it seems to try to hold about 11.7 volts most of the time which is very strange indeed (held with all accessories on). It appears to give up the ghost after a random amount of time though.

I am curious what grounding points I need to touch preferably with a photo representation of where to find them and I also have a feeling hot points as well on the 12v side from the DC/DC to the front.

I do not know exactly how the DC/DC operates from the 12v standpoint so if there are any sensors or other inputs that need to be touched I wouldn't mind knowing.

At this point it appears (2) 6v deepcycles in the tub, a 12v charger in the tub and a receptacle to "plug in" the car will go in, are on order along with some long wires.

What I wonder though is should I disable the hybrid functions? The battery shows near full but after being started the motor races for about 2 minutes "charging" I also have a check engine light but no codes. Assist works up to about halfway, regen the same, the battery stays near full most of the time and hardly dips down, start stop appears to work, odd that the DC-DC is flakey.

As is the car will work for most of my daily driving despite these issues, but I would like eventually to fix them, even if an AC delete and alternator install are on order.

Thank You
Ryan May

[gilbertguy]

Originally Posted by rmay635703

The car refuses to charge the 12v battery. I have tried various combinations of the Big switch and both BCD connectors,

With both off and the switch off (aka the BCD disable) it still refuses to charge. I ran some wire from ground points (that were obvious) back to the battery ground itself, on my other problematic car a Miles ZX40 this brought the car to life, in this case no affect. The big red battery light is always on

So you mention "with both off and the switch off", it sounds like you are talking about two plugs? When you look into the car from the back hatch the computer box to the far right is the MCM, leave the plugs connected on that one. The next computer box to the left is the BCM, that is what you want to disconnect the three plugs on the front of the box. The two plugs towards the back of the car you want to leave plugged in.

Just wanted to make sure you pulled the right plugs from the right box.

[rmay635703]

I went off this set of images

http://hybridautomotive.com/insight/...emoval/s13.jpg
http://hybridautomotive.com/insight/...moval/s23a.jpg

Being a defense auto guy my left and your left might be different.
AKA Left = Drivers side

I did not pull the front plugs off the PASSENGER (Curb) side device, I pulled them off what I would describe as sort of being in the middle on the front and there were only 2 plugs to remove. Would you have a pic (both a distance one with an arrow) and a closeup of what you mean?

I really can't see three plugs to pull anywhere.

Thank You
Ryan

[aisbell]

Originally Posted by rmay635703

I did not pull the front plugs off the PASSENGER (Curb) side device, I pulled them off what I would describe as sort of being in the middle on the front and there were only 2 plugs to remove. Would you have a pic (both a distance one with an arrow) and a closeup of what you mean?

This post includes a photo with connector facing the rear of the car circled in red. The other two connectors are on the side of the same BCM facing the front of the car.

[gilbertguy]

Hmmm, been awhile since I've been under the cover, now I'm wondering. I've read other post indicating three but that might be on the MCM which I know you don't want to unplug. Here is the post I got it from, look at Eli's comments in perma link #2.
good insight mechanic near chapel hill nc?
I think he is saying to pull all three plugs on the BCM, two in front and the one in the back of the BCM.

[ericbecky]

First, I hope you paid wylieinsight a fair price.
There were a couple of people trying to lowball him. I hope you were not one of them.

Has anyone checked the actual dc/dc output?
I know you said "...car holds it at about 11.7v most of the time..."
But have you checked the dc/dc output?

[Willie Williford]

I'm with GG. Lets get this settled. All 3 or just the two on the front of the BCM..

If it's 11.7 that is just the 12V battery voltage, it should show 13.8-14.2 a lot of the time.
Willie

[aisbell]

Originally Posted by Willie Williford

I'm with GG. Lets get this settled. All 3 or just the two on the front of the BCM..

When this procedure was first discovered and publicized, I recall that only 1 of the 3 BCM connectors needs to be disconnected. However, it doesn't hurt to disconnect all 3, so why risk disconnecting the wrong connector?

[Need4Speed]

My 12 volt battery read on the obdii c&c gauge shows low 12s a lot of the time, 12.4, up to 12.7. Sometimes, when using the headline, it shows low 13s.

Interestingly, I balanced my ima battery yesterday (and had the 12 v battery on a charger as well, I had the ignition on while balancing the ima battery), and almost the whole drive to work and home the 12 volt battery sat around 13.7 to 14 volts......without drawing current from the ima battery....at least based upon the obdii c&c gauge.

Old post about driving with the I disabled, look at the picture Eli posted:

I miss my car! - I need a new battery and advice

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by ericbecky

First, I hope you paid wylieinsight a fair price.
There were a couple of people trying to lowball him. I hope you were not one of them.

I paid what was asked and didn't negotiate.

Given the bottom of the car is straight and the top isn't should give a clue as to why some might lowball. I will pull tug and likely install double gaskets on the one side, reminds me of my 1981 C-car is terms of water inside.

Originally Posted by ericbecky

Has anyone checked the actual dc/dc output?

Nope, not that I know of, any good place to check it? A good photo would help of where to look. I have lots of ammeters and voltmeters, leads and other goodies, I can rig up anywhere you need.

Originally Posted by ericbecky

I know you said "...car holds it at about 11.7v most of the time..."
But have you checked the dc/dc output?

The car with the big switch off has the battery drop like a rock, it doesn't take long and the battery is dead.

If the big switch is on and the BCM is enabled the battery lasts longer but again gives up the ghost after a random amount of time.

What I found strange was that with the big switch off, if I turned on all accessories the battery would quickly deplete to 9.x volts, with the switch on it would seem to stay 11.4-11.7v for a relatively long time then eventually give up. New battery has almost no effect on this so I keep it out.

The fact that the battery stay's more or less at 11.7 with or without accessories leads me to believe that there is an intermittant connection.

The car likes to cough on the highway and has rough idle when cold with a bit of tick. I plan on cleaning it out and doing my usual maintanence routine and seeing if that makes any difference. Not really sure what a 160k insight should have gone over and done to avoid headaches.

Thanx
Ryan