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Old 11-24-2012, 10:47 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Been tracking things down and checking connections.
QUESTION: would a bad DC to DC converter cause the speedometer not to work?
I put a voltmeter on the output side and drove the vehicle and watched it. Never went over 12.3v and when I turned on lights, wipers and fan it dropped below 12v and didn't show that I was getting anything from the converter.
I've wired 6boats up to 65ft both AC and DC this is really getting to me!
I found no wires cracked, chewed, chaffed or anything, pulled many connectors and sprayed cleaner on them. But still have the Battery and Brake light on or blinking or faintly lit and speedometer not working.
The reason that I ask if the DC/DC not working the speedometer is that some marine electronics will not work unless you have at least 12v
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:59 AM   #22 (permalink)
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IMA is disconnected and has been a while. Put the voltmeter on 2 orange wires on top +/- and drove down the road. Voltmeter showed up to 180v going down the road. So I guess the charging system is charging.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Have you tried pulling the cluster out and checking everything on that, yet? The symptoms may not really match, but it's worth a try if all else fails.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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To tell you the truth, I was hold that out as last resort. Not real sure what that entails and scared that I'm going to break something. Trying to figure out which plug it is and disconnect it there and see what happens.
I checked the fuse on the side of the IMA.
There has to be a ground or short somewhere.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Just did a test run down the road. Voltmeter hooked to the back of the DC/ DC converter.
No battery/brake lights this time but also only read 12.2v and with head lights and heater motor on 11.8. This is a new 12v battery and been test running the car so that is all normal.
Still no speedometer.
The DC/DC converter should read around 13.7 correct?
Still looking under the dash for a short.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Also, blink codes
74
75
78
2
The 2 power command signal circuit high input
What causes that?
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:44 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Update. After pulling and checking the large fuse on the side of the IMA battery, the brake/bat light turned off. After it sat a day I drove it to work this am, the 2lights came back on BUT faded off as I went down the road, so I'm guessing that the DC/DC conv is putting out. Speedometer has not tried to work for 6 days of trying. The back cover has remained off. On the way to work, one time the speedometer tried to work and when it did I heard a crackle like a loose or bad connection. I'm going to replace the body ground from the DC/DC conv and double check all connections again. The noise that I hear was behind the drivers seat like it was the neg or the pos wires, but going to check them all. If anyone has heard of a problem back there, please let me know.
Thanks
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:14 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Question! Could all of my problems be caused by a bad EPS unit? I have replaced all the grounds even 2 in the back.
Took my EPS unit off and took the cover off and looks like some water damage.
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Cleaned up the EPS unit, plugged it back in and the EPS light went off. Have checked the Dash panel and don't see any problems back there, wires and pins look great.
This is very frustrating! Going on ten days of trying to find the problem.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:24 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Thinking it may be the VSS since it threw a code. I disconnected it and drove to gas up. Still same thing. When parked and parking brake is on the battery/brake light is on and bat light is blinking very fast. Just trying anything, I turned on most everything that I could, light, heater, defrost, on the way back the EPS light came back on. Still can't get the speedometer nor the mpg meter not matter what I do and have tried. So I still have a short somewhere. Anyone have any ideas?
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