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Old 02-05-2013, 04:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The ground cable is universal, why did you have to order one? Any auto parts stores around there.?


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Old 02-05-2013, 04:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by atikovi View Post
The check engine and IMA lights are on but there is only one code, P1576 motor drive module voltage signal circuit low input. What does that mean? And why isn't the P1447 battery code on?
Well, that means you just need to replace your HV fuse in the battery compartment... you should be able to source one from a junkyard or probably Eli at Bumblebee has one. See the link:
P1576
I'd say you won't see a P1447 until you replace this fuse and voltage can properly flow through the battery again (fuse breaks the pack in the middle if I remember correctly).
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Littelfuse L50S 100 Fuse 500 Volt 100 Amp Semiconductor | eBay

If you want a brand new one
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:03 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The ground cable is universal, why did you have to order one? Any auto parts stores around there.?
Wouldn't say universal. The bolt hole is pretty small and the length quite short. When a genuine Honda cable is $7, I'm not going mess around for a half day going back and forth to parts stores trying to make a universal cable fit.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Well, that means you just need to replace your HV fuse in the battery compartment... you should be able to source one from a junkyard or probably Eli at Bumblebee has one. See the link:
P1576
I'd say you won't see a P1447 until you replace this fuse and voltage can properly flow through the battery again (fuse breaks the pack in the middle if I remember correctly).
I checked IMA battery switch and it was still in the ON position. I'll take the battery cover off and look for the fuse.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:47 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Weak battery

Not to be a smart *ss, but one thing we should have learned from this thread [other than the hoofbeats and zebras thing] is that when a 12v starting battery is really weak, we can't assume that a simple "jump" will start the car right away. In fact, many of us have tried to jump another car from a running vehicle and had the engine not kick over right away, or even had it simply "click!" for a while. In such cases, revving the jumper vehicle and/or waiting for 3 to 5 minutes usually does the trick. All this with a booster [2nd vehicle] battery much more powerful than a jump box. I carry a 500cca jump box myself, but am aware that if the vehicle battery I'm trying to jump is really toast, the jump box may be more useful as an anchor...

Very glad to hear that the new Insight turned out to need the simplest and least expensive of fixes to get running. We haven't heard the price, but it sounds like a good buy. Congrats!
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:40 AM   #27 (permalink)
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OK I got the battery cover off and see where the fuse is, covered by a plastic cover. It's pretty well buried down in there. Does that cover just pull off? Can the fuse even be replaced with the battery pack in the car? Not much room to get your hand in there let alone a tool.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
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You are gonna have to take the battery out to get at the fuse.

You might ask yourself, or the group, what would blow the fuse. I don't know the answer
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Well, it is a tight space but after 10 minutes I was able to get the fuse out. Hope I can source it locally.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:55 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You are gonna have to take the battery out to get at the fuse.

You might ask yourself, or the group, what would blow the fuse. I don't know the answer
In Peter's thread, they were speculating years of vibration may have weakened the two thin strips that actually make the fuse part of the fuse... this would lead to heat around the fractures and eventually the fuse blowing.

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-IMAC&C
-Lower grill block

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