Need IMA repair or replacement advice

[freezin4]

Originally Posted by Gearloose

. I put a location in the profile when I set up the account, but it doesn't show in my post. Now I can't get back to any page that lets me edit the profile and add the signature lines.

Hi,

Click on USER CP (in the middle of the horizontal blue bar above), then on the left column click on YOUR PROFILE, and right below "EDIT YOUR DETAILS". Scroll down to ADDITIONAL INFORMATION "where are you located?" WV will do.

Take care. HTH

[Willie Williford]

Or go to QUICK LINKS, scroll down to EDIT YOUR DETAILS, make the change and you are done.

HTH
Willie

[Gearloose]

OK, I think I got my profile fixed, at least. Thanks. The Customize Profile thing is lost in the middle of the page in a black bar, for me. It would help if it were a more prominent box along an edge or the top.
My scanner is an Actron Scan Plus. It only reset the Check Engine light when I used it, not the IMA light. I pulled the 12v positive cable, checked that the dashboard was dead, waited a minute, put the cable back on. All the lights were reset except Maint Needed (I have been waiting for better weather to do the oil and plugs). IMA and Check Engine lights are out. It starts OK. Before I did this the IMA battery light said full charge, now none. I'll drive it normally later today and we'll see what happens. Could someone post a link to what I need to do about getting a grid charger, please? Also, is this something that could be done with a solar panel and some other tinkering, or am I making this unnecessarily complicated?

[retepsnikrep]

Originally Posted by Rainsux

That doesn't work for the IMA codes, at least with the two scanners I have. Sam

It does with the OBDIIC&C gauge

1) Erase IMA code memory.
2) Erase check engine light ECM memory.

[JohnVirginia]

Originally Posted by Rainsux

That doesn't work for the IMA codes, at least with the two scanners I have.

Sam

The Advance Auto scanner with the clear codes function on it will clear the codes. At least it does on an HCH 2003. They had a different one (same brand) that did not have the clear code function, so you may have to ask.

[Gearloose]

Disconnecting the 12v cable also seems to have scrambled my radio presets. I needed to do them over anyway. Too many stations getting fuzzy. I also have a box of old cassette tapes to play. I feel that Jean Luc Ponty and Philip Glass are good music to drive an Insight by.
The IMA was showing no charge, when I started up, then 1 and 2 bars on the regen light as I went up the driveway and down the road. I got 10-12 bars of regen going down a 3/8 mile hill, then, on what passes for level here, the charge gauge started coming up and was at full by the time I was 1.5 miles from home. Regen and assist were normal and the total charge was only down about 2 bars when I got back home. It is good to know that this is not an immediate emergency. My wife recently got out of the hospital and I've had enough of that for a while. I'll report in as this IMA situation changes. Thanks for talking through this.

[zehboss]

Hey Guys,

I have been reading this forum for a while. I appreciate the experience based answers here. I recently bought a 2001 insight. It was a trade in to a BMW dealer. I got it from the car wholesaler who gave up on trying to fix the car because his crew had no experience with repairing hybrids.

The IMA, battery, check engine light and brake lights stayed on at first. The body was without defect, no wrecks, and looks pretty nice.

I got the car very inexpensively. Initially the car would not charge the 12 volt system and went dead after 40 miles or so, sure am glad I had AAA which toed the car home so I could start working on it.

I first replaced all 4 ground straps, turned off the IMA checked and charged the 12 volt battery and generally cleaned up and repaired things I found lacking in the car. The battery was less than a month old and charged up fine.

After that the brake and battery lights turned off when started. I can now drive the car extended lengths but the battery and brake lights come on and the DC to DC stops running intermittently. It seems to relate to the RPMs exceeding maybe 3500 RPMs. The lights will dim a little when this happens.

If I keep the RPMs low for a few minutes the DC to DC converter will turn back on and charge normally and just after that the brake and battery lights will turn off and the car drives normally. You can see the lights brighten and as long as I keep the car in a low RPM mode the car seems to drive on gas only without issue.

Stopping the car and restarting corrects the issue as well. Disconnecting the battery negative cable and reconnecting also seems to correct the issue.

What should I do to fix the gas only operation of the car?

Do I have to disconnect the BMS connectors besides just turning off the pack switch?

I want to get the car operating in the gas only mode before tackling the IMA issues.

The IMA light is on. No charging indicators, no SOC indication, all IMA related indicator do nothing except the IMA idiot light. This is the case weather the pack switch is on or off.

Advice on how I should proceed would be much appreciated.

[Willie Williford]

Please post your location in your profile. Maybe someone close by could do a hands on training session.
There are numerous posts here on ICN about your problem and a valid explanation as to the proper procedure for any of your ailments. Search isn't easy, but very imformative when concluded.

Willie

[zehboss]

I am currently in Cedar Bluff, Alabama. I am considering the idea of turbocharging the little car as you have. Any advice? Any help locally, nearby, or from anyone will be appreciated. I have red through most of the related information. Those have led me to the ground strap replacements, battery check, IMA switch off, running the car everyday etc. These remedies have dramatically improved the operation of the vehicle. I will be changing out the tires tomorrow. I have purchased an OBD2 Bluetooth code reader and paired it with a device. I am still working on many avenues to correct issues. I now can drive the car without getting stranded. Though it still has many issues I am working on. Getting the warning lights of the battery and brake lights to not come on would be a good step in that direction.

Thanks for your continued input.

[eq1]

Originally Posted by zehboss

What should I do to fix the gas only operation of the car? Do I have to disconnect the BMS connectors besides just turning off the pack switch?

My understanding is that even with the BCM disconnected you get the 12 volt battery light indicator / 12 volt charging issue above 3500 or 4000 rpm. But then, I didn't think you'd be getting any 12 volt charging with the IMA switch off and the BCM fully connected. In general, if you want to run gas-only, you turn the switch off and disconnect at least 2 of the 3 connectors on the BCM...