[TopFuelTim]

Hi Jeff,

What Liquid gasket do you recommend to close it? Should I use the Honda product or something else is better?
And for the oil? I read about BG Synchromesh II, but I have no idea where to get it here. Can I use the Honda oil? Are there other brands recommended?

I finally opened it myself. I could not resist it. I am now stock however. I never could remove the stupid nut on the counter-shaft. I really need to buy a 30 mm socket that I can put on my impact tool.

Transit

I'll try to add my 0.02 worth here. As Jeff pointed out to me, the countershaft nut is left hand threads. All of a sudden it was much easier to remove : ). He also told me to use a 30mm socket, which I did. Knowing what little I do, I would only use Honda Manual Transmission fluid. For sealing, I was told to use Permatex Ultra Gray.

My 0.02 worth,
Tim Glover

 

[jeff652]

Good stuff Tim! Permatex Ultra Grey is essentially generic Hondabond and a suitable alternative.

 

[Transit]

Use Hondabond HT to seal the case.

Use Honda MTF for the transmission fluid.

The counter shaft nut is REVERSE THREAD. Yes, it's also 30mm, get the right size socket. Also make sure to properly follow the counter shaft re-torque sequence: 80 - 0 - 80 ft. lbs. Use a vice or heavy vehicle and wood blocks. I use my 6,000 lb. Suburban as my press

REVERSE THREAD!! Fu../$%%/&%$*(*))"/!!!

I suspected it and verified in the Service manual but I saw nothing about it.

Then I used all that arm juice just to make it tighter.

Thanks

Transit

 

[unimog1300]

Jeff,

How does your transmission rebuild program work?

I send you a transmission and you send me one you have rebuilt?

If you are out of rebuilt transmissions as you mentioned earlier, you just rebuild the one I send?

What's a good guess on turn around time on your end rebuilding mine considering your work schedule etc?

Do you repair/replace anything besides the ISB and rework the synchros?

What kind of cost would I be looking at?

Is shipping bad to Illinois?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[jeff652]

Jeff,

How does your transmission rebuild program work?

I send you a transmission and you send me one you have rebuilt?

If you are out of rebuilt transmissions as you mentioned earlier, you just rebuild the one I send?

What's a good guess on turn around time on your end rebuilding mine considering your work schedule etc?

Do you repair/replace anything besides the ISB and rework the synchros?

What kind of cost would I be looking at?

Is shipping bad to Illinois?

Thanks,
Steve

Hey Steve, sent you a PM.

 

[Mario]

Will you send me that info too, Jeff? My ISB has started making noise. I live in an apartment complex, so I don't have a garage to do it myself in. I'm trying to weigh my options to have the bearings replaced and the synchro tabs taken off.

 

[Transit]

Hi Jeff,

I really realise how little we can do without the proper equipment. I don't even have a puller.

Now, there is no way I could pull out the bearings and gears on that counter shaft. The best set-up I could do with a workmate, a steel bar and large C-clamps did not even move the parts at all. It requires a huge amount of force.

Does it absolutely require a press to do it?

How can we manage to pull out the 5th gear without the special blocks G03681633 with the thin shoulder? There is no space between these 2 gears. The manual says to pull them one at a time.

Is it possible to pull out the 4th, the 5th and the 2 bearings at the same time with a puller?

 

[jime]

Hi guys,

Just a little detail in the metal composition can make a 3 to 1 difference in the longevity.

Well, that is true for sure - seen it myself. Way back in the mid 60's British Leland made changes in synchronizer cones in the MG-B transmissions. They went to a sintered iron coating on the cone, and a slightly harder bronze, if memory serves, on the ring. Considerably improved over the rather MG-A and the early Bs.

 

[jime]

Use a vice or heavy vehicle and wood blocks. I use my 6,000 lb. Suburban as my press

See, large heavy vehicles have uses too. I use one to break down the bead when I manually change a tire. Put a 4x4" beam on the tire, just at the rim edge and drive the vehicle up on the wood. Works like a charm.

 

[TopFuelTim]

Wouldn't want to do it without a press

You can set up a simple press with a hydraulic jack and C-channel. I wouldn't want to do without one. Something like this is what I used.

Large Bearing Seperator Splitter 4 3 4" Capacity Solid Steel Shop Press Puller | eBay

As much pressure as it took, I would not want to do more than one at a time.

My 0.02 worth,
Tim Glover

 

[jeff652]

Hi Jeff,

I really realise how little we can do without the proper equipment. I don't even have a puller.

Now, there is no way I could pull out the bearings and gears on that counter shaft. The best set-up I could do with a workmate, a steel bar and large C-clamps did not even move the parts at all. It requires a huge amount of force.

Does it absolutely require a press to do it?

How can we manage to pull out the 5th gear without the special blocks G03681633 with the thin shoulder? There is no space between these 2 gears. The manual says to pull them one at a time.

Is it possible to pull out the 4th, the 5th and the 2 bearings at the same time with a puller?

Some people on here will cringe when they read this, but gently hammering (dropping if you will) the counter shaft on a concrete floor will remove all of the gears. The threads for the lock nut are recessed enough that as long as the impact is flush, they will be undamaged. A smooth faced hammer carefully angled to not strike the gear teeth can be used to reassemble the gears onto the counter shaft. Only thing you need a press for is torquing the lock nut when finished.

 

[Transit]

liquid gasket

Use Hondabond HT to seal the case.

Use Honda MTF for the transmission fluid.

The counter shaft nut is REVERSE THREAD. Yes, it's also 30mm, get the right size socket. Also make sure to properly follow the counter shaft re-torque sequence: 80 - 0 - 80 ft. lbs. Use a vice or heavy vehicle and wood blocks. I use my 6,000 lb. Suburban as my press

Hi Jeff,

At the moment to close the transmission casing, the manual says to do it whithin 4 minutes after the liquid gasket has been applied. This is very short to spread all the gasket, align all the parts and dowel pins, to expand the bearing snap ring and finally close the assembly with the 14 bolts.

Is it really critical if I take a little more time?

Do you have a special trick to do it?

Thanks

Transit

 

[jeff652]

I think my manuals say 10-15 minutes. Do it a couple times dry first if you want to practice but 5-10 minutes is fine. You only need to spread the CS snap ring, do not worry about getting the counter shaft fully seated until after case halves are torqued.

Once the case is together, turn trans upside down and counter shaft will drop/ring will snap into place. A little shake will help if gravity alone is not enough.

 

[Transit]

I think my manuals say 10-15 minutes. Do it a couple times dry first if you want to practice but 5-10 minutes is fine. You only need to spread the CS snap ring, do not worry about getting the counter shaft fully seated until after case halves are torqued.

Once the case is together, turn trans upside down and counter shaft will drop/ring will snap into place. A little shake will help if gravity alone is not enough.

Thanks a lot!

 

[Aspire59]

I edited my prior post with my response. As an additional aside, here is a photo showing the 1-2 syncro set and the infamous clocking tabs:

Thread: http://www.insightcentral.net/forum.../problems-troubleshooting/20602-2000-man-transmission-problem-3.html#post204252

Finally found it. here is a side-by-side with the tabs still on and after removal:

Thread: http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...0758-pictures-tips-my-5-speed-input-shaft-bearing-replacement-5.html#post228662

Is this mod being done with the old synchro's or are you guys buying new ones? Noticed they force you to by the entire set instead of the most likely to fail part... ;p

 

[atikovi]

Which syncro set is the mod performed on? I'm looking at the countershaft diagram in the repair manual and it shows a syncro set above 1st gear and another set above reverse gear.

 

[KLR3CYL]

The mod is done to both 1st and 2nd gear syncros.

The ones in the illistrstion above 1st and between the reverse gear and 2nd.

HTH,
Scott

 

[atikovi]

OK thanks. So it looks like pretty much ALL the pieces on the countershaft have to come off. I have an impact wrench for large nut on the end but how do you tighten it when finished?

 

[jeff652]

OK thanks. So it looks like pretty much ALL the pieces on the countershaft have to come off. I have an impact wrench for large nut on the end but how do you tighten it when finished?

A press and a few blocks or wook, or a heavy vehicle that you can jack up and use as a press. Torque it properly 80-0-80. Remember, it's REVERSE thread!

 

[atikovi]

A press and a few blocks or wook, or a heavy vehicle that you can jack up and use as a press.

I got the tabs ground off and am ready to put it back together. Not sure how a press or heavy vehicle would hold it so I can tighten the nut though.