That seems "normal" for the i2. Myself and a few others have found that the lack of assist is the signs of a dead 12 volt battery. The i2 has the programming or mindset that if you are going to drive inefficiently, it will use the extra power for recharging.
If this is causing a problem driving you can try turning off econ mode and or try sport mode til you get to the top.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
Do I understand the OP right, in that the battery depletes uphill to a point where the car decides to not use the assist and starts charging it? I don't know what a "resets" means in the post... However, if it is doing what I just described, be assured that mine seems to be doing it too in the same hills. Very short ones for that matter, so the battery is low capacity and the battery management seems rather unsophisticated, if I can put it mildly...
Mine is a 2011 and seems to have been doing it since new pretty much. Unless you have not had this issue before, I think it is just howothe poor thing behaves uphill...
Thanks for all the replies. Something interesting happened couple weeks ago. I was out of town for 5 days and left my car at the airport. When I got back to pick up the car, both 12V and assist battery were completely ....dead! No response! Just like a car sitting in a dealer show room. I was really worried by then.
I had to jump start for two times to get it started. Ironically, I was relieved to find that I had just left a light on. So that was an error on my part, not the battery draining itself. I still planned to take it to the dealer to check on the battery reset situation though.
Upon jump starting, I found that the assist battery was completely empty and needed to charge from the ground up. Since I live quite far anyway I just keep on driving letting all batteries to charge up, approximately an hour drive.
But guess what! The battery had since stopped re-setting itself!!
Since that day, I had been testing and testing the car by driving uphill and downhill and it has been two weeks now with no problem.
Does that mean that a complete discharge of the battery will help the negative recalibration problem? I must say that I'm VERY relieved now that the car is doing fine.. fingers crossed!!
Basically the system guestimates the charge on the counting of amp in and amps out. Having said that it also looks at voltage too to get an idea if the pack is too full or too empty.
When you reset the system by removing the negative ground cable or having a dead battery it looses count and charges til it reads a full voltage.
What I use to do time to time was a force recharge when I had heavy driving to do. I would sit in park rev engine to 3 grand and wait til the display shows its full. I would even do this in heavy traffic
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
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