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Just got my second Insight!

3K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  Gasoline Fumes 
#1 ·
I just dragged home another 2000 Insight. It was cheap ($300), but has a few issues. I probably saved it from the crusher. It sat for a couple of years. What are the odds of the "new" IMA battery taking a charge? I disabled it for now. Also, is there a starter from another Honda that can be used? I had to borrow the starter from my other Insight to get this one running. I'd prefer a used junkyard starter, but there are no Insights in junkyards near me. I know there's no direct cross reference, but I'm hoping something is close enough to work.

Neither of my Insights came with keys, hence the dropped steering column. The wires on the seat are a towing harness I made to use the Insight's taillights instead of taping magnetic lights to an aluminum car.

Other issues:
Leaking fuel lines on firewall
Brake lines look bad
Pops out of 2nd gear
Body is kind of beat up
Stiff shifter
A/C doesn't work
 

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#2 ·
For $300 you did great. First, you did save it from the crusher. It will only appreciate in value. The worst possible case is that it becomes a donor car for parts. Good luck with it and keep the board posted on your progress, please.
 
#4 ·
Congrats, gas fumes!

Second gear on these cars is prone to self-destruction. KLR3CYL rebuilds them and sells rebuilt transmissions. Or it should be possible to rebuild it yourself.

There's something about the design of the 2nd gear synchro that's unusual - which causes it to fail often. There's a mod to correct the problem, when you do a rebuild.

Double clutching is also a useful skill on these. If it likes to grind going into second (or any gear), you can avoid the grind and probably get many additional thousands of miles by double clutching. I had a rebuilt installed but I still double clutch when downshifting.
 
#5 ·
The battery charged up and seems to work great. But twice I've heard a squeal from the back at full assist. Imagine a loud electronic mosquito. Normal? The battery is still uncovered, so I could be hearing things that wouldn't normally be heard. I can also hear the battery fan.

Does not pop out of 2nd gear, by the way. Just the normal downshift crunch. Previous owner told me it was popping out.

Brake lines replaced, fuel lines spliced. Running pretty good!

Can the rear brake shoes be backed off from the access hole in the backing plate? I can't get the drums off and I couldn't find the adjuster when I poked around with a screwdriver. Trying to remove the whole hub, drum is seized to it. Feels like the shoes are catching on the drum when I try to remove it.
 
#7 ·
Thanks. But I've only heard it twice at WOT and full assist. Maybe the DC-DC is squealing from not getting enough power from the battery?
 
#8 ·
I'm not sure exactly how it works. To my knowledge the only charges the 12V at 12.5 volts for best efficiency, and allows the high voltage battery to take up the slack. Under certain conditions, maybe when power is being pushed through assist or regen, it switches to high power mode. I've driven with the IMA on and compartment open and never noticed any squealing other than the DC-DC. Do you have a scangauge or voltmeter to see if the voltage changes in tune with the noise?
 
#12 ·
Also, if the DC-Dc actually turned itself off, the voltage wouldn't stay at 12.5 volts for hours on end.

I followed mudder's advice and disconnected the WHITE/GREEN wire, and the only squeal I had was when the DC-DC turned on for the first time when starting the car. No squeals at all after and it stayed charged pretty decently. The meanwell unit is much better though.
 
#14 ·
Under around 1300 RPM the DC-DC cannot maintain 13 volts, voltage typically falls under 13v even under light load. At under 1100 RPM the voltage will fall to just above 12v, and under 1000 RPM brings the voltage under 12v after only a few seconds, and this is with not much more than the base load (guesstimate <20 amps).

The Meanwell PSU "alternator" charges the 12V battery much better at lower RPM. It turns on at 950-1150 RPM depending on conditions and load, and will stay on down to 850-1050 RPM outputting whatever voltage you set it to, again depending on load. Higher loads will tax it more and cause voltage drop, but so far it has kept my 12V battery charged much better than the stock DC-DC did.
 
#16 ·
Under around 1300 RPM the DC-DC cannot maintain 13 volts, voltage typically falls under 13v even under light load. At under 1100 RPM the voltage will fall to just above 12v, and under 1000 RPM brings the voltage under 12v after only a few seconds, and this is with not much more than the base load (guesstimate <20 amps).
Clarification: Note that this is only the case if no IMA battery is installed... with a functional IMA the DCDC will continue cranking out at full power until the IMA battery SoC drops below 25%, at which point the MCM will then disable the DCDC (by pulling GRN/BLK low).

The Meanwell PSU "alternator" charges the 12V battery much better at lower RPM. It turns on at 950-1150 RPM depending on conditions and load, and will stay on down to 850-1050 RPM outputting whatever voltage you set it to, again depending on load. Higher loads will tax it more and cause voltage drop, but so far it has kept my 12V battery charged much better than the stock DC-DC did.
I agree the meanwell PSU is better in every way, except cost... the DCDC is free.
 
#19 ·
I had my oil tested. I'll ask if the 0w-16 oil could be causing the elevated copper levels. I used the same oil again. I don't do a lot of idling or short trips to explain the fuel, but the oil was drained cold.

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#20 ·
YOU DID GREAT FOR 300 BUCKS !
I GOT A GREAT LOOKING 2000 FOR $1700
AND HAVE YET TO FIGURE OUT WHY IT WON'T RUN .

I PUT A NEW BATTERY & STARTER IN IT SO FAR .
THE STARTER WAS 75 BUCKS ON E-BAY AND REQUIRED NO CORE .

 
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