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Old 03-25-2019, 09:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 12V battery and shift lockout problems

Hello All, I have been parking my Insight the last two winters. Starting it up at least once per month and letting it idle for 15-20 min. This January it turned over slow but did start. The 12v battery was dead in February. I replaced the 12v battery in June 2018 with a Walmart battery. Walmart replaced the battery last week and after being in the car 4 days the replacement battery went dead. I have had problems with Walmart batteries and last week bought a series 51 Optima yellow top.
After a 6 mile test run yesterday, I could smell a strong electrical short smell. When I got back home, the automatic shifter would not go out of park. I had to push the shifter release button to get the shifter to move. Sometimes the shifter works fine other times I have to push in the release button. The IMA system does not work and never has since I bought it about 2 years ago. The main ima battery switch is OFF.
When driving, the 12v battery puts out 13.70v at 2500rpm. At idle, it fluctuates between 11.78v and 12.54v.
I have not smelled this electrical short smell since I’ve owned it. I wondered if my DC to DC converter might be bad? Or the shifter lockout solenoid?
I was going to install Gazmatic rear shocks and Daewoo rear springs to try and help the jolting ride and hopping rear end but if I can’t figure out this electrical problem, I will have to park the car until I can.
Any ideas on what could be wrong?
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Since your IMA battery is bad, do you have any IMA bypass setup or are you just running the car with the IMA switch OFF.

I have learned that just switching the IMA Off will work for a while (several months of driving for me) but when my IMA battery got so bad it would drain the 12v battery. This was resolved by implementing the IMA bypass mod.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for this info. I do not know if the bypass was done. Going out to check this as soon as it stops raining,
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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And of course no remote diagnosis would get started good before somebody would mention ground straps.....

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Old 03-25-2019, 11:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Do you have any plan of buying an IMA battery for it?

If not, remove the IMA battery, BCM, CMC, etc for a weight saving around 80lbs and do a complete bypass and you'll even get leanburn back (if you have a 5 spd car). https://www.insightcentral.net/forum...a-battery.html



I bet the BCM board is burnt, mine did. The DC to DC converter is quite tough, I bet it is working just fine.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No plans to put in a new IMA battery. As much as I want to do this, it’s just not in the budget. I am considering the full IMA delete. It is a CVT but still there would be weight savings. I’m getting a steady 46-47mpg now so maybe getting rid of the IMA battery would help me get 50mpg.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I did replace all the ground straps except for the power steering ground.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KentuckyJack View Post
It is a CVT but still there would be weight savings. I’m getting a steady 46-47mpg now so maybe getting rid of the IMA battery would help me get 50mpg.
Do it, no lean burn but still 80lbs is 80lbs of dead weight. Plus, no CEL and IMA lights due to non functional IMA.

Take out the BCM and open it up and see.

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Last edited by tryingbe; 03-25-2019 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Remove plugs from both these modules?
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File Type: jpg F0E4A9BF-67B8-4A89-B2C0-8D540467E3D6_1553532928780.jpg (94.6 KB, 2 views)
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Old 03-25-2019, 01:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It is safe to just disconnect both modules? Do I need to meter the 2 main wires and disconnect them first before unplugging the modules?
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