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Old 05-11-2018, 12:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow 2nd gen High beam LED ( low power BS ? ) Disable DRL

Hi, long story short dont ask why i want to save electricity.
2nd gen insight 2010
Anyway, i can disable the DRL? i took out the blubs and it gives me an error message which my ocd hates cause i have to clear it each time. If not are those LED's on ebay for example low power draw? or do they just take the same watts ... i rather just add some of these kind of led's below since its fanless but on all the listings they say they take X watts which is the same of what a halogen bulb would take? It's not like the car will give less power just cause its a LED, i assume the same power output is sent regardless whats there. correct me if im wrong.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Super-Wh...!US!-1&vxp=mtr

Last edited by Ali2627; 05-11-2018 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 05-11-2018, 01:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The daytime running lights are the high beams running a lower voltage to make them dimmer. The actual spec for this is hard to come by, but the stock 9006 halogens are 65 Watts when full on (using them as high beams) and cut down when running daytime. So the ones in your link are brighter at 100 watts when full on, and less when in daytime mode. Here is some electricity 101:

Voltage is what a device runs at. When you lower DC voltage a lamp will be dimmer (this is an oversimplification, helpfulto understanding)

Watts is how much energy a device consumes.

Amps is a combined measurement of the two. Is is arrived at by dividing the Watts by the volts. This is very important for wire size and heat loss or wires overheating.

So a 65 watt lamp at 12 volts is a 5.4166 amp load.
By the same token a 65 watt lamp running at 120 volts is only a .54 amp load.

This is why, for instance, a big amp drawing a lot of watts would require a heavy wire running straight to the battery. If you connect such a device to wire that is too small the wire heats up dangerously. (A fuse should blow and protect the wiring)

It’s tough to find an led solution to make the daytime running lights use less energy because folks who pay for LEDs want more light not less. I did find some LEDs that run at less than the 100 watts of the ones in your link. You might measure the voltage at the plug when in daytime mode and then do the math to figure out what the consumption is. It may not be worth bothering. Or there may be some LEDs that will lower the watts. But the ones in your link will not.
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Old 05-11-2018, 02:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egads View Post
The daytime running lights are the high beams running a lower voltage to make them dimmer. The actual spec for this is hard to come by, but the stock 9006 halogens are 65 Watts when full on (using them as high beams) and cut down when running daytime. So the ones in your link are brighter at 100 watts when full on, and less when in daytime mode. Here is some electricity 101:

Voltage is what a device runs at. When you lower DC voltage a lamp will be dimmer (this is an oversimplification, helpfulto understanding)

Watts is how much energy a device consumes.

Amps is a combined measurement of the two. Is is arrived at by dividing the Watts by the volts. This is very important for wire size and heat loss or wires overheating.

So a 65 watt lamp at 12 volts is a 5.4166 amp load.
By the same token a 65 watt lamp running at 120 volts is only a .54 amp load.

This is why, for instance, a big amp drawing a lot of watts would require a heavy wire running straight to the battery. If you connect such a device to wire that is too small the wire heats up dangerously. (A fuse should blow and protect the wiring)

It’s tough to find an led solution to make the daytime running lights use less energy because folks who pay for LEDs want more light not less. I did find some LEDs that run at less than the 100 watts of the ones in your link. You might measure the voltage at the plug when in daytime mode and then do the math to figure out what the consumption is. It may not be worth bothering. Or there may be some LEDs that will lower the watts. But the ones in your link will not.
wow thank you for clearing things up. I got a subwoofer 300 amp and i wana cut down on power draw. I got 2 dash cams running too and HIDs with a phone charger. So i guess ill just leave them unplugged. Do you think all the things i got is safe for the car? its not gonna burn out the regen system?

^ thinking about it maybe leaving the DRL is fine since the hids on take waaaay more power and it seems normal no flashing/flicking when the bass hits........

Last edited by Ali2627; 05-11-2018 at 02:58 AM.
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:21 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The ones in your link won't work for two reasons. One is - as you have seen - the light control module will not recognize them and second, they will have the totally wrong light pattern. They are fog lights, made to be low and wide. You want high beams, i.e. long, not wide.
Apart from that, do you run constantly on high beam?
Apart from that, do you run with you volume up to 11 all the time?
Apart from that, the regen will feed up to 10 kW back into the IMA battery, not into the 12 V that you use for your lights and onboard electronics.
I would suggest, you go for a beefier battery (i.e. 151R) and/or use capacitors for your audio to smoothen the flow.
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