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Old 02-03-2014, 11:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2010 Insight 3 fill ups all 39.9 mpg miles/gallons

I've had my 2010 Insight for about a month. Got it at a dealersip. I have filled it up 3 times. Fill up #1 was 39.9 mpg but the dash display for the tank said 42.3. Fill up #2 39.9 dash display 42.3 #3 39.9 display read 42.3 Consistently 2.5 too high. Is there a way to calibrate the dash display to be correct or is the a deceitful tactic to make it look like you are getting more mpg than you are actually getting. I am disappointed the the mpg is the same as I got on my 2003 civic I traded in for the Insight. Does anyone have a ballpark mpg increase % from winter vs summer.. I am hoping cold weather is the reason for the lower than epa rating fuel economy and that warmer temps will significantly increase the mpg's. the reason I got it is because some posted close to 50 mpg's. I did a lot of research to confirm that. I have tire pressure at 41 psi and "granny" drive. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated. Car has 30,000 miles on it.
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a ballpark mpg increase % from winter vs summer...
I'm in southwest US. Was getting right about 50MPG when it was 50-80F. Winter hit and I fell to 45MPG. Either way is better than EPA estimate.

Estimated MPG is off by a very similar margin to yours, and mine's a 2013.
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Welcome aboard.

Yes, it is higher by 2 mpg. Why? Maybe there is some guy in Japan who rubs his hands together and laughs an evil laugh as he misprogrammed the mpg by +2?

Winter blend fuel, discount store fuel and cold weather all reduce fuel economy. Sounds like your tire psi is a little low. Most run the sidewall psi. My yokohomas say 51, so thats what i run.

You need at least a ten mile trip to start getting excellent mpg. Also the health of the starter battery plays a big role. Try BP gas, 45 psi in the tires depending on what the sidewall says and go for a 10 mile trip.

When it comes to the gen2 insight driving like granny can actually hurt vs help your mpg. You need to be semi agressive in acceleration, then put a lot of coasting in your style. Say if you are in a 45mph zone, accelerate to 50, then coast down to 47 or so and hover around that.

Since your car has some miles on it, it may help to reset your computer. Get your radio code, radio presets and anything else that you will loose if you disconnect the power. DIsconnect the battery for 15 minutes negative ground cable. Reconnect and let it idle for 15 minutes. Yes the IMA battery will show empty, but it will relearn that and the other important stuff. Thats why you let it idle.



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Old 02-03-2014, 09:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I once compared dash mpg with actual mpg for 5 fill ups. The average spread was 2.92 dash optimistic, with lots of variation in amount of dash optimism - ranging from a low of 1.5 to a high of 3.8. The higher spreads were associated with fill ups in which I did a lot of coasting and EV mode, giving higher total mpg for the tank full.

I've discovered that the I2 is much more sensitive to driving style than other cars - including my wife's I1 Try driving with the energy flow screen on in the dash. Think " battery management " and adjust driving style for best dash mpg.

The instant mpg screen can show 15 mpg while accelerating 0 - 30 mph, 45 - 60 mpg at a steady 40 mph, and 150 mpg while coasting or EV mode.
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Principles supporting my driving style for even higher EX mpg:
Have the engine operate as little as possible, especially when standing still or moving slowly; while also meeting my demands for power and maneuvering. This means most battery charging while cruising city streets and rural roads, max regen from slowing down and downgrades, and only using heater or A/C when the engine is on for other purposes.

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Old 02-04-2014, 01:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I really appreciate the tips and will try them all. I wasnt sure about the tire pressure but consensus sound like its safe. I hear a lot about the radio pin code. Where can I find that. Im installing an aftermarket stereo in the near future so not a big deal. Thank you!
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadhumm View Post
I really appreciate the tips and will try them all. I wasnt sure about the tire pressure but consensus sound like its safe. I hear a lot about the radio pin code. Where can I find that. Im installing an aftermarket stereo in the near future so not a big deal. Thank you!
You're welcome.

...aah tire pressures. A topic of great discussion here, in the past. Here is my experience.

Before getting the I2 ("Blue Bird"), for 10 years I drove a Saturn SL. EPA numbers were 27 city 36 highway. I recorded all fill ups and actual mpg. My average annual mpg was 36 mpg. I achieved this by driving slightly faster than most of the traffic but rarely over speed limit plus 5 mph. I used basic high mpg driving skills, checked my tire pressures monthly, and set them at recommended levels plus 3 psi, during the coldest time of day.

After fly'n the Blue Bird for awhile I slowly got persuaded, by the discussion here, of the profound importance of higher tire pressures, for best mpg. So I did a series of experiments to test handling characteristics, at various cold tire pressures in the high 30's to low 40's psi. I found that in the low 40's the car would not travel in a straight line at 60 mph with out constant small / subtle changes of the steering wheel. On curvy roads, at a relatively high 40 - 50 mph, I had the constant fear that the slightest steering error or inattention on my part, would lead to a roll over. Thus tire pressures in the low 40's was too much effort for mpg gained.

Further experimentation lead me to my current 39 psi cold tire figure. This allows me to enjoy the scenery while traveling at 60 mph in a straight line, on 2 lane roads; and to smoothly flow from lane to lane on the freeway at 75 mph, without constant fear of roll over.
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Principles supporting my driving style for even higher EX mpg:
Have the engine operate as little as possible, especially when standing still or moving slowly; while also meeting my demands for power and maneuvering. This means most battery charging while cruising city streets and rural roads, max regen from slowing down and downgrades, and only using heater or A/C when the engine is on for other purposes.

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Old 02-04-2014, 11:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Checking and adjusting tire pressures cold is not well understood. I guess most folks were not paying attention I science class. So it helps to have a gas station a block away. Otherwise a home compressor is the way to go. A good quality gauge helps as well.

As to the radio code, I would get that from the dealer you bought it from. They should have given it to you. Did you get an owner's manual? The code is usually on a card in that packet for those of us who bought new.
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