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Old 04-12-2019, 03:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Yet another noise attenuation thread

OK guys, so... I pulled my trunk apart a while ago, since IMA battery delete (and DC/DC changover to Meanwell). The less weight has been nice and the larger trunk, but the road noise was INSANE. I started building a trunk again, which has helped, but I noticed that on a long highway trip, the road noise was just far too much. Enough that I deemed earplugs necessary and my stereo just couldn't drown it out.

Anywho, I applied a very small amount of deadener (less than 1 sq ft per) to the insides of my doors, outside skins, as well as some butyl rope. The results were greater than expected, making the "TV Static" like hiss noticeably lessened on the highyway (and in general). Total weight added per door was less than 3/4 of a pound (more weight in the butyl rope than the deadener panels!). I did the Sound Deadener Showdown method and spread the squares out (using NoiCo deadener from Amazon and Parts-Express butyl rope).

I've also removed the factory deadener from the trunk (not worth it!) and applied the NoiCo throughout the entire trunk (basically no weight difference, just spread out better with higher quality material). Noise difference here was minimal, but didn't expect much.

With that said, there's still plenty of noise to tackle!

Goal: Keep the weight to an absolute minimum, but reduce noise to bearable levels at ~70MPH (I travel slower usually, but downhill on the interstate, 70 happens)

Here's what I plan to do...

-Add weatherstripping to doors and trunk for extra seal
-Apply mylar bubble insulation between select panels (low weight decoupler)
-Finish my trunk (floor is done-ish, but not the walls)
-Add deadener to roof
-Fill rear gaps with polyfill, roxul, or fiberglass (pending what fits and available)

Anybody else have input? I've read plenty of threads, many of them 2014 and older, that state things they've tried and mostly had lack-luster results with. Hoping to hear somebody with some experience (and plenty of time to evaluate) chime in. Don't want to put any more money or weight in than I have to.

~~~

What others have done...

(?) Door Panel Dampening
(-) MLV Under cab carpet, most of trunk, and door panels
(+) Deadener and Mylar on floor, doors, and trunk.
(+) Put insulation next to battery box
(+) Weather stripping in doors and hatch to reduce wind noise.

Last edited by NoD~; 04-15-2019 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 04-12-2019, 05:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff - sounds like you know what you're doing, a lot more than I know. But here's a couple thoughts based on a few minor things I've done:

-good weather stripping around the door can reduce wind noise a lot. Bottom and rearward edge of door, usually put on the door itself rather than the jamb...

-I have a 'normal' hatch/IMA compartment. There's a lot of noise that comes from at least the passenger side of the aluminum IMA box. That might not be an issue for you any longer, with your modded compartment and your treatments to-date. Here's a link to a pic of a simple thing I did - put Roxul on the side of the box, it helped a lot: https://www.insightcentral.net/forum...cture8669.html

-A lot of high frequency noise, especially when driving on wet ground, comes through the air vents at the rear of the hatch compartment. I was never able to access that space well enough to do anything. There's some crappy pieces of foam or something in those spaces that don't work very well... I'm not sure how that space can be easily accessed to treat it...

Sources of Noise
-There's a TON of engine vibration and rumble that gets transmitted through the rear motor mount. If your mounts aren't as perfectly aligned as possible, you'll get more NVH than necessary. The rubber in the rear mount shouldn't be loaded at all at rest, such as at idle... (I did a DIY mod using microcellular urethane as the mount insert, not mainly for noise reduction but there was some noise reduction).

-There's a TON of road noise that gets transmitted through the rear control arm bushings. I have no suggestions - just that I did a DIY polyurethane bushing replacement and the noise level on rough highway has become nearly unbearable... Before it was just loud, now it's really loud...

-There's a layer of road noise/suspension noise that gets transmitted through the anti-sway bar. I installed stiffer front springs and removed the bar (not mainly for noise reduction, but noise reduction was an added benefit)...

-It's been said that moving from OEM rear shocks to the GAZ, which have polyurethane upper mount bushings, ends up producing a resonant boom at certain speeds. I'm pretty sure I've noticed this as well. So, I think it's pretty certain that the quality of the upper mount rear shock bushing can make a difference in noise...
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Old 04-14-2019, 05:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Subscribing!
My situation is similar, the rear of my insight is empty, bare metal. There's no engine or exhaust noise any more so the tyre and wind noise is noticeably very loud. I want to line the back with something and re-carpet it, without adding too much weight.
Look forward to hearing your results.
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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^ Former IC member Julian Edgar did a thorough job revamping the rear hatch area (having removed the IMA). You should search for the thread he made about it, both of you... I think IC member 'Ecky' did, is doing, has done something similar, too.

Here's a link to a page about where J Edgar started his hatch re-vamp thing: https://www.insightcentral.net/forum...ml#post1061978


Here's an image from that thread of what it looked like completed, I think:
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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OK, going to continue updating the first post with links to what works, what doesn't, etc. Figured we'd make a "lord of the rings" thread about this (one post to rule them all).

The Roxul Safe n Sound is something I use all over the place for insulation or sound absorption, so I'm definitely going to pack some of that in the cavities of the car!

One thing I'm trying to do with my trunk is keep all the floors/walls "floating" to create a 2nd leaf. After having built my recording studio, I found that having 2 layers between you and the source of a noise is insanely good at reducing/eliminating it. The down side is, the lower frequencies require more weight, so with my light-weight goals, it won't be perfect. I think i'll be happy if I can rid of most of the high and some of the midrange noise, though.

Gotta try to find weather stripping that works. The link to "Big D and Small D" stripping on Amazon is no longer available, so hopefully will find an alternative. Then, hopefully, back to getting my trunk done.
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Old 04-15-2019, 02:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just searched Amazon "3m weather stripping big D" and a bunch of options similar to what I used popped up. I noticed a different option though that looks like it'd be good for the door jambs, here's a direct link: https://www.amazon.com/weatherstrip-...gateway&sr=8-7

It has an overall L-shape made up of a d-shape section + a double box-shaped channel section. The "L" would basically fit around the door edge - with the d-shape against the jamb and the box channel filling the door/panel gap. Hard to explain.
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Old 04-15-2019, 02:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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From what I read, Ecky said that 5/16" (0.31") was not enough for a single layer to seal his door. The link you posted only shows 0.20" height. Seems we'd need about 0.50" to make it all work?
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I don't remember exactly, but I think you're right, probably too small/not tall enough. If the total height is only 0.2 inches (the 'box channel' section) then it'd clearly be too small. Even if the 'd-shaped' section alone were only 0.2 inches tall, as I recall, it wouldn't be tall enough to seal the gap between the jamb and the door alone; you'd have to rely on the height/size of the box channel section filling the panel gap to help out, make up some of the deficit... The overall shape is right, but yeah, probably too small...

Even the large D stuff I bought (can't remember the exact height)* doesn't quite fill gap between door edge and jamb, particularly at the bottom curve of the door. That gap is pretty sloppy/large on my car, not sure if it's like that with all Insights, though.

Basically, it seems like, given the typical sizes of weather stripping, you'd probably need two strips, one on the jamb and one on the door edge, sealing against each other, to really get a good seal around the door...

*13mm tall (about 1/2 inch), 11mm wide.

Here's a link to something that looks similar, big D shape, 13mm tall, 14mm wide: https://www.amazon.com/CUSTONEPARTS-...YTH4Z1Q75RT45X

Or maybe this one, better deal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VK28T7..._t3_B078B8FM1H
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Last edited by eq1; 04-15-2019 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Wonder about this one: https://www.amazon.com/MATCC-Rubber-...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'll have to do some measuring and playing around with different ideas to find the perfect "One seal to rule them all" as I really don't want to have to stack seals to make it work, if possible.
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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^That seems like it'd be worse than the first one I mentioned. It has no height...
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