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Old 03-09-2012, 05:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking ECU version can have BIG impact on MPGs!

My 2001 Insight had all of the recalls done in ~2008 and had the 070MCM/A01BCM, as well as the 37820-PHM-506 version of the ECU/ECM when I got it last August. I have slowly replaced the BCM/MCM to revert to the original versions as I documented in this thread in an effort to maximize MPGs without using the MIMA system. I have peacked in the high 80's to low 90's MPGs while driving on flat open highways at ~45 MPH and that, I thought, was the best I was going to get . . .

The 2000 Insight that I recently bought from Oregon and am fixing up to sell to a relative had no recalls done, and had the original 030MCM/010BCM (which Eli now has ). Interestingly, it also had the 37820-PHM-505 version of the ECU/ECM.

Since I am in good with my Honda parts guys and they will chip keys for me free, I figured what the heck and tossed the 505 ECU into my 2001.

I was, and still am, shocked at the result. I got an immediate 8-12 MPG improvement at all speeds! I am now able to drive 55MPH and get mid 90's MPG on my 'flat' commute. Before I had to run a 45MPH target speed (and less on hills) in order to break into the 90+ MPG range. I have never been able to run low 90's MPGs during my normal commute without going VERY slow, and mid/high 90's required the full tank "bump" to achieve.

This was driving home on the 'flat' route at a 55MPH average. This is easily my best MPG ever on this late night run, AND I was going approx 10 MPH faster than normal:



I haven't been able to do a normal 'hilly' route test run (at ~45MPH) where I get my best MPGs, but was able to slow to ~45MPG for a few miles on the 'flat route' during my drive in to work a couple days ago and got this:



I have *never* been over 100 MPG for this type of distance, let alone close to 110!

I've been driving on this ECU for three days now and am still amazed at the increase in #s I am getting. I am seeing this significant improvement at all times and all speeds, regardless of terrain or gear. I am not sure exactly why this jump has occured, but I have noticed that the car will go into lean burn faster/easier, auto stop happens sooner and more often, and purge cycles are much less frequent, but those don't add up to this increase by themselves. There is no difference in power or acceleration, and nothing else on the car has changed. I have intentionally been driving on less then 1/2 tank to ensure the "fill up bump" is not skewing my numbers.

I should be able to get three full test runs next week and will be sure to post those results, but this was too shocking for me to wait anymore.

Needless to say, my relative is not getting this ECU back
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Last edited by jeff652; 05-19-2012 at 01:24 AM.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Crap.. Now I'm going to have to start collecting ECMs.



So you have to re-program your keys when you swap ECMs? I didn't realize that.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So, MY question is, all it took was a 505 version of the ECU??

Last edited by Bornloser; 03-09-2012 at 06:19 PM. Reason: re-read post
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bornloser View Post
So, MY question is, all it took was a 505 version of the ECU??
Correct. That was the only change that I made relative to my prior MPG #s I mentioned. Each ECU has an unique immobilizer chip in it that they keys must match in order for the car to start, so if you buy one online (eBay) make sure you can get a key from the donor car with it. With the key the parts department can copy the "chip" from the donor key to one that has been cut for your car. Without the key it takes the service department to plug into the car with the new ECU in and make a new set of keys (much more $$$).

I also wonder how the 37820-PHM-355 ECU would compare to the *505 revision. Anyone have a *355 laying around (with a donor key) that want me to test?
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Last edited by jeff652; 03-09-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Will it work in a cvt? I got a new battery under warranty in oct, any guess as to what versions I might have now? What is the easiest way to get that info?
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sooooo, would you like to PART with that magical golden ECU???
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
Crap.. Now I'm going to have to start collecting ECMs.



So you have to re-program your keys when you swap ECMs? I didn't realize that.
*Goes immediately to Automotive parts on Ebay*
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff652 View Post
Correct. That was the only change that I made relative to my prior MPG #s I mentioned. Each ECU has an unique immobilizer chip in it that they keys must match in order for the car to start, so if you buy one online (eBay) make sure you can get a key from the donor car with it. With the key the parts department can copy the "chip" from the donor key to one that has been cut for your car. Without the key it takes the service department to plug into the car with the new ECU in and make a new set of keys (much more $$$).

I also wonder how the 37820-PHM-355 ECU would compare to the *505 revision. Anyone have a *355 laying around (with a donor key) that want me to test?
In case the key isn't available, how many of those $$$ are we talking about?
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??? LMPG
80+ psi in RE92's without incident
Calpod switch
EPS fuse removed
FAS/fuel injector interrupt circuit *coming soon*
grid charger
OBDII C&C gauge
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hmmmm, now I need to go pull back the passenger foot well cover and get the numbers off of my ECU. I'm curious to see if it has been upgraded since I'm the fourth owner and don't know the complete past history on this vehicle.

EDIT:
So to clarify is the version the number on the sticker like on the BCM/MCM?

I looked at mine and it has this number on it: 39980-S3Y-0032 (Never mind, I got the numbers off of my EPS module)
Does someone have a list of what the different EMC versions are?

Will have to take a better look for the ECU tomorrow when light and access is better.

Last edited by gilbertguy; 03-09-2012 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
Crap.. Now I'm going to have to start collecting ECMs.



So you have to re-program your keys when you swap ECMs? I didn't realize that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff652 View Post
Correct. That was the only change that I made relative to my prior MPG #s I mentioned. Each ECU has an unique immobilizer chip in it that they keys must match in order for the car to start, so if you buy one online (eBay) make sure you can get a key from the donor car with it. With the key the parts department can copy the "chip" from the donor key to one that has been cut for your car. Without the key it takes the service department to plug into the car with the new ECU in and make a new set of keys (much more $$$).

I also wonder how the 37820-PHM-355 ECU would compare to the *505 revision. Anyone have a *355 laying around (with a donor key) that want me to test?
Some more questions: 1) How would you get the car to the dealer if you couldn't get it started? 2) Has anyone figured out how to bypass the imobilizer?
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??? LMPG
80+ psi in RE92's without incident
Calpod switch
EPS fuse removed
FAS/fuel injector interrupt circuit *coming soon*
grid charger
OBDII C&C gauge
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