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Old 10-13-2018, 02:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy RIP to my beloved '05 CVT

Sad to report that after just turning 180K my 2005 red CVT is on life support. I'm the original owner purchased 6/2005 in Los Gatos, CA. It's been my daily commuter car though I haven't driven it as much in the last 5 years.
  • Friday Oct 5 - oil changed, tires rotated and cabin filter replaced
  • Sunday Oct 7 - check engine light and IMA
  • Monday Oct 8 - took it back to mechanic to see if they messed up something. They pulled code P1600
  • Friday Oct 12 - took to dealer for another scan

Damage report totals ~$6000 (plus tax). This car has been the most reliable I've owned so this was unexpected. If I was mechanically inclined (and had the space and tools) I'm sure I could have done more preventative care to keep it going longer.
  • New IMA $3018
  • Timing case reseal, head gasket and top end gasket $2999 (small oil leak which I never noticed)

The car is driveable though doesn't accelerate well from a start. I drove it the 14 miles back/forth to the dealer.

The car now sits in my driveway. What are my options?

1. sell for parts
2. donate to charity $500 tax writeoff (the max w/o paperwork)
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So IMA dead?

There are plenty of us driving with the IMA battery removed.$20 worth of parts to bypass the IMA for good. See my signature.
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Last edited by tryingbe; 10-13-2018 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There is plenty of people on this forum from you Wa St. location that would be willing to help, im sure of it.

Last edited by Kevinnfl; 10-13-2018 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 10-13-2018, 04:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I installed a Grid charger in my 2006 and drove it with no issues except a weekly charge for another 6 years before changing out the IMA battery now have 365,000 miles on it and it runs great,
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Old 10-13-2018, 05:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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According to her avatar, she is in WA State.

I think your best option is to buy a new BumbleBee battery from Eli down in Graham, OR (just below the river.) He might be able to troubleshoot the P1600 code. That code doesn't seem to be exclusive to the battery from what I know. Visit his website here:

https://bumblebeebatteries.com/conta...SADEgI8GvD_BwE

If you need a battery, his 3 yr warranty BumbleBee battery is better than the Honda battery and is only approx. $2200. He might be able to install it for you. If you go that way, have him install a HybridAutomotive grid charging harness.

On the small oil leak - let it slide. Lots of these old jewels leak a bit. It isn't serious unless it is big.

It seems clear that you love the car, so hold on. You don't have to let it go.
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Old 10-13-2018, 11:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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First off, it make no sense to take a 13 year old car to the dealer for routine maintenance. Second, why would you spend $3,000 to fix a leak instead of $5 a month or two for a quart of oil?
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Old 10-14-2018, 12:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default OP replies and IMA code P0A7F

Thanks for all the replies. The IMA code is P0A7F which is "battery module deterioration" from what I could find online. No idea if that's something that can be repaired w/o replacing the entire battery.

A few comments back to other posts:

1. I have rarely ever taken it to the dealer for maintenance
2. I definitely will not pay Honday $3000 for a IMA battery
3. The oil leak was news to me as I don't see anything on the garage floor (which doesn't mean the head gasket isn't leaking, they did say it was a small leak)
4. Yes, I'm in WA about 20 miles east of Seattle

So after reading the comments, I'm hearing that it's okay to use it with the IMA 'failing' so that's good. What about the leaking head gasket? From what I've read in 4-5 articles driving with a leaking head gasket even if I watch the oil consumption and the temperature gauge is at best a patch.

I also saw an article talking about using head gasket sealer which can bond to cast iron, steel and aluminum so it can seal the head gasket leak for any type of engine. Is that for real? What's the life expectancy of that?

Thanks, Deb

My work commute is now 22 miles round trip not the 80 it used to be so not as much wear on the car.
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Old 10-14-2018, 01:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deb-Red05 View Post
3. The oil leak was news to me as I don't see anything on the garage floor (which doesn't mean the head gasket isn't leaking, they did say it was a small leak)

Open the hood and look for that oil leak with flashlight, then check your oil level. If you can't find the oil leak and oil level is full, I would keep driving.
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Old 10-14-2018, 07:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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As stated above I would never take my car to a dealership (aside from warranty work.....but that ship sailed long ago). There is a big difference between a small oil leak and a blown head gasket. You could extend your battery life with a grid charger and there are plenty of ways to determine a bad head gasket (white motor oil on the dip stick, running hot, coolant usage, white smoke from the tail pipe...just to name a few). Has the car ever over heated? As far as a small oil leak goes; I don't think there are many cars of our vintage that don't have some sort of oil leak. If it's not too bad keep driving.

Just looked at the picture of you car.....beautiful shape.
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Old 10-14-2018, 08:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It's fine to keep driving in a bad battery, as long as you unplug the two plugs in the back of the BCM. This will leave the check engine and IMA codes on. The disconnect is an easy job, it just requires removing a bunch of easy to access bolts from the back hatch area.

Don't use that stop leak stuff. Just drive it keeping an eye on the temperature and checking the oil level/coolant level frequently.
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