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Old 05-15-2019, 12:56 PM   #21 (permalink)
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P1548 Is that correct...
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ObdIIc&c, Imac&c, ImaBoost, Current Hacks available. Enqs to 150mpg[at]gmail.com
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:12 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoday View Post
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I am just turning the key to on position, no engine start, then jumping the ODBII socket. I have tried clearing by disconnecting the 12v battery for 30 seconds. I have tried the on/off switch on the IMA battery in the back. No joy. Going to borrow a decent ODBII scanner today and give that a try to see if it will give me the subcodes/blinkcodes without requiring paperclip skillset.
You need to try to get the blink codes BEFORE you disconnect the 12V to reset anything. The IMA battery needs to be in "on" position. Drive car, let codes appear, then read them without resetting anything. Take a pad and pen and write down the codes just as they appear. Longs are first #, shorts the second #, a long gap and the next code. There is a still longer gap after all the codes are read and before it starts again. The codes will just keep on cycling so you have multiple times to check your notes. It does get a little confusing sometimes, that is reason you need to write them down and let it go through multiple cycles. You aren't first person to have problems with it.

Some of the inexpensive scanners won't even read the blink codes, but give that a try. If all you get is the basic code, then you will still have to get the blink codes. Naturally the Honda tool at the dealer does the whole job
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by retepsnikrep View Post
P1548 Is that correct...
no, sorry. P1648
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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This is kicking my butt, so I am going to take a few days off and work on other things. The insight is running pretty good, it's charging the 12v battery now. I think I have a decent battery pack and the RB grid charger and harness appear to be working well. Just having trouble getting the ima system to turn on and work. A few days off for me and that car can't hurt. I will post again when I start trying again with the codes and blink codes. Still getting 1648 and still unable to tease any blink codes out of the vehicle.

Thanks all,

Mike
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Old 05-21-2019, 02:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Back at it.

I am total failure with blinkcodes, but I was pretty sure the mcm and/or bcm units I have had problems, so I bought a working set from Brent in Toledo. Plugged them in today and P1648 is gone. IMA light still on, battery shows very low state of charge, CEL is on with P0560 code. I have the RB grid charger plugged in and it is charging, showing 168 volts at startup. I am hoping that P0560 goes away with a good state of charge. I will also try disconnect of the 12 volt battery to clear everything and see what I get after that.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 05-21-2019, 04:42 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Default P1444 now!

IMA system charging the battery and providing the IMA power boost now. Battery shows full charge. IMA and CEL on showing P1444 with IMA blink code of 59 and CEL blink code of 69.

Can you imagine my surprise to finally see a blink code? Am I pulling the battery pack out again to check battery sticks and ptc voltage?

Cheers

Mike
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:39 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You should probably check out this thread: https://www.insightcentral.net/forum...id-charge.html

Your 1648 and then 1444 was ringing some bells - which took me back to the linked thread... I think there was another thread, too, where someone else had IMA problems, replaced BCM, and ended up ruining the second BCM as well. I'm thinking bad pack/PTC short/etc. may damage the first BCM, so one needs a new BCM, but then this sort of problem if not identified ends up damaging the second BCM... Haven't read your thread very closely though so I'm not steeped in the details...
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:51 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Default 1648 1444 issue

read through that quickly, thanks to eq1. I think I will be pulling the pack tomorrow to check the ptc strips and to check the voltage on each of the battery sticks to see if I spot any that have failed hard. I will also read here before and see if there are other suggestions. I am inclined to do away with the ptc strips and add the resistor if the battery sticks look ok. Learning lots and getting more familiar with the system.
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Old 05-21-2019, 06:45 PM   #29 (permalink)
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You can measure the voltage of stick pairs by the technique in this ref:

https://www.insightcentral.net/forum...ml#post1061778

If you see some wild variations in pair voltages as retepsnikrep mentioned early in the eq1 cited thread, then you might expect leakage, but from your early posts, I thought you had the yellow junkyard sticks installed. Reading back through this thread I find it fairly confusing, so I'm going to desist for the time being.
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:02 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Last shot.

P1444(59) is "High voltage short circuit." I have no direct experience with the the code, but it has been pretty consistent when electrolyte leakage occurs. Electrolyte leakage seems to occur primarily with the early Chinese replacement sticks.

The Service Manual has a rather detailed 2 page diagnostic on pages 12-58 and 12-59 to eliminate several potential causes. If you had a copy you could follow those steps. There might be a link somewhere, but I haven't looked, since I have the Service Manual.
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