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Old 12-13-2015, 12:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2012 to 2010 engine swap!!!

Ok guys. I've finally been able to get around to this. This was a dreaded job, but to my surprise it went incredibly smoothe. Total time for disconnection, removal, reinstall, reconnect, fluid fill was just under ten hours. We pulled the engine from above although apparently it can be pulled from the bottom. I'll give a more detailed post on this if anyone is interested.

I've run into one problem, but I'm hoping it's not a huge ordeal. When I fired it up it idle perfectly for about two second. Then again for two more seconds. Found a fuel leak (don't get me started on these stupidly designed fuel lines). Replaced fuel line fired it up and it idled ok for a second. Tried again and the thing was "clicking" and being goofy like the battery was dead (I hadn't fully charged the battery yet so it makes sense). Tried to jump it and the thing was making this grinding sound coming from what I believe is the starter. I don't see how it could be the two plates that meet up at the bell housing. There are 6 10mm boots and I double checked that they were installed properly. Hand cranking the engine was not hard and made no audible signs of trouble. The starter is easy to get to. Four bolts holding the air box down, the wire connecting to the MAF sensor (I think) and then you're to the starter.

What do you all think?

BJ
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ok guys, I need some help desperately as we are down to one car and this one is my last hope! Car has sat for about two months. I did NOT turn off the IMA in the trunk so I'm assuming it's drained. Yesterday I swapped out the 2012 engine and installed the 2010. I turned off the IMA before I started the swap as well as removed the 12v battery. Hooked everything up as it should be. Went to start it and it purred for a couple of seconds and died out. Did that a couple of times and hasn't started since. It's giving me a real nasty metal on metal grinding sound from the starter. After a couple of seconds it will start to crank the engine but it won't start. When I turn the key to the "on" position it will give me this rapid clicking noise from the dash and from what I can tell its near the fuses under the steering wheel near the door. There was another loud clicking noise like that from a relay that sits next to the fender beside the 12v battery. I removed the relay and that clicking stopped. I've gone under and checked a whole bunch of fuses that would seem obvious culprits but none are blown. I'm simply not familiar with these hybrids. I can get my way around a normal gas engine just fine but this thing has so many electrical components and sensors I really don't know what to do.

Is there a reset on the ima? Reason I ask is because three nights ago I rolled the car into the carport to get ready for the engine swap. Out of curiosity I tried starting it and it fired up immediately then stalled out. Point is, it would have fired off of the IMA then right?

Please, I seriously need help with this. I'm near McMinnville, Oregon if someone happens to be in the area and wants to try and assist.

BJ
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Ok another update:

If I go out and disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Reconnect. Clear the "c1555" code with my scan gauge, it will start and run for a second absolutely perfectly. Then die. If I just try to clear the code without disconnecting the battery it will NOT start. Now, I did the battery disconnect with the IMA off and it did NOT start. With the IMA on, when I clear the code, I can hear something engage in the trunk so I'm assuming it is sending signal to the IMA when I clear the code. That grinding noise has stopped. I'm guessing that was a fluke thing honestly. If the ima is off, it will just crank and crank and crank. I've got the 12v battery on the charger currently.

My scan gauge Cuba only recognize that there is a code so that "c1555" is basically telling me there's an error but it doesn't know what it is.

Any thoughts? I guess the good news is that the engine runs 😊

BJ
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok another update:

If I go out and disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Reconnect. Clear the "c1555" code with my scan gauge, it will start and run for a second absolutely perfectly. Then die. If I just try to clear the code without disconnecting the battery it will NOT start. Now, I did the battery disconnect with the IMA off and it did NOT start. With the IMA on, when I clear the code, I can hear something engage in the trunk so I'm assuming it is sending signal to the IMA when I clear the code. That grinding noise has stopped. I'm guessing that was a fluke thing honestly. If the ima is off, it will just crank and crank and crank. I've got the 12v battery on the charger currently.

My scan gauge Cuba only recognize that there is a code so that "c1555" is basically telling me there's an error but it doesn't know what it is.

Any thoughts? I guess the good news is that the engine runs 😊

BJ
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm a G1 guy. I've never even sat in a G2. But here is some general wrenching stuff to think about. When it starts, is it doing the silent start with the IMA or the cranking start from the 12V? (Could the grinding noise just be the 12V starter?) If it's the silent start, are you SURE it's actually running and not just the IMA spinning it? Does it "run" the same if the IMA is switched off? Does it "run" after you have moved the key from the Start position? Have you tried squirting some starting fluid in it? Have you looked at all of the fuses and relays that involve the fuel pump? Do you hear the fuel pump running? Does the G2 have a fuel pressure switch? Does it behave the same in P and N? It sounds like it's going to be OK once you figure out the electrical problem. Oh. I hate this idea. Any chance it was visited by mice while it was parked?

Sam
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm almost positive its actually running because my rpm goes up then drops off. It IS the silent start. Doesn't at all sound like a cranking engine. Starts just like it used to. I can't even get it to fire once it starts cranking. I have no clue about a fuel pressure switch. I haven't tried starter fluid. I will do that. I do hear the fuel pump engaging. Thank you for the reply!!!!

Bj
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=caliber1;907777 It IS the silent start. Doesn't at all sound like a cranking engine. Starts just like it used to. I can't even get it to fire once it starts cranking. [/QUOTE]

If you turn the IMA off it should crank with the 12V starter. Does it do this?

Sam
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2000 Citrus
Custom Turbocharger System
MIMA #150
Genesis Charger and Discharger
BumbleBee Battery
OBDIIC&C Gauge
NM license plate KERS
(Kinetic Energy Recovery System)
Alpine Stereo
Scott's front and rear springs
GAZ rear shocks
2003 Lean Burn CVT (Wife's car)
2000 Citrus with aerodynamic extension
2002 Blue getting new engine
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes, with IMA switched "off" the engine will crank with the 12v battery/starter. Check the fuel pump 15a fuse and it is still good.

BJ
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When it cranks with the 12V starter, does it still run for a couple of seconds and then shut down?

Sam
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2000 Citrus
Custom Turbocharger System
MIMA #150
Genesis Charger and Discharger
BumbleBee Battery
OBDIIC&C Gauge
NM license plate KERS
(Kinetic Energy Recovery System)
Alpine Stereo
Scott's front and rear springs
GAZ rear shocks
2003 Lean Burn CVT (Wife's car)
2000 Citrus with aerodynamic extension
2002 Blue getting new engine
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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No, it will not start when cranking with the 12v battery. It will only start with the IMA and then die.

BJ
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