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  • novicetrader.jay ·

    I like it. While I'm driving I mostly look at the LB LED. I just put a couple of header pins in place of the LED and stole a 2 pin connector with .1" spacing from a PC fan that had in my junk pile. I used some 28 gauge black wire soldered to the LED and to the 2 pin connector. It was easy to route the wires between the stering column and wrap them around the brightness buttons. I got the idea from Matt at Hybrid Revolt - Matt actually removed his dash and drilled a hole for the LED for a better look.

    Hope this helps.
    ericbecky ·
    Cheapest way is to do it manually.
    Use the same positive and negative connection points as your battery charger.
    Attach a voltmeter to the positive and negative connections
    Attach the shop light to the positive and negative connections.
    Shop light will turn on.

    Sit there for a couple of hours and watch the voltage reading drop on the voltmeter.

    When it gets to the voltage target you chose (120v?) unhook it.
    Need4Speed ·
    The ps 250 voltage can be adjusted between0 and 250 volts dc. The supply is a voltage limiting and current limiting supply. With nothing connected I adjust it for around 180 volts. Then the leads can be shorted together and the current limit adjusted for 350 ma. Then connect it to the battery. It will charge at 350 ma until the battery gets to 180 volts. Mine never gets higher than around 174 volts, so in theory it would continuously charge ar 350 ma forever.

    Sometimes I charge it at one amp until the state of charge using the obdiic&c gauge reads 90 to 95%, then I back it down to 350 ma. I think that've supply's capable of up to 2.5 amps.

    I did not buy a charger "harness", but just some wire and molex connectors at radio shack. I also put chassis fuses in line so I had a fuse that would blow in the event of a short.
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