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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was trying to hit the 1 Million mile record but not going to make it anymore on the original engine! Burnt a valve at 680k but still had 70-90psi compression cylinder 3. But this time #2 cylinder no compression. Plug was oil fouled, start smoking at warm up in the morning about 6 months ago. That might of been a sign. Plan to drop in the spare CVT motor in it
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what oil have you been running? And what's you're driving conditions like?

edit: also seeing that odometer makes me feel like I have no miles on my 2000, lol. I'm only at 274K miles.
I ran Mobil 1 at first, then switched to AMS oil at 106k. Driving condition 80mile drive to work, 1.5-2hrs drive with traffic.
 

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Why not just fix the head? I burned a valve at 471K and that’s what I’m going to do. Then when it gets to 500K and beyond it’ll have the original engine. I have a good engine I could swap in but I’m not going to.
Sam
 

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Why not just fix the head? I burned a valve at 471K and that’s what I’m going to do. Then when it gets to 500K and beyond it’ll have the original engine. I have a good engine I could swap in but I’m not going to.
Sam
yeah I say you should fix your head as well!

What a truly amazing little engine.... It's gotta be one of the most long lasting engines ever
 

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I was originally going to post that I wouldn't do a head on a worn out bottom end with so many miles... But after looking at the other 2 cylinders compression numbers, I would absolutely just keep the block and just replace the head. I recently did a head replacement on a CVT car, which arguably is more 'difficult' as there is more wiring in the way. I completed the job in about 6 hours. You can even re-use the head bolts!

If you do decide to get rid of the engine, please for the love of God, let me buy it. I will replace the head myself, clean it up and hang it on the wall of my shop as a memento of how awesome these little cars are.
 

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I ran Mobil 1 at first, then switched to AMS oil at 106k. Driving condition 80mile drive to work, 1.5-2hrs drive with traffic.
Sorry, I meant what oil weight do you run. So lots of freeway driving?

Why not just fix the head? I burned a valve at 471K and that’s what I’m going to do. Then when it gets to 500K and beyond it’ll have the original engine. I have a good engine I could swap in but I’m not going to.
Sam
I think for him makes a bit of sense because he has a spare motor. Even if he fixes his original motor might be nice to be able to take his time on it with having the spare motor in his car to get him around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry, I meant what oil weight do you run. So lots of freeway driving?



I think for him makes a bit of sense because he has a spare motor. Even if he fixes his original motor might be nice to be able to take his time on it with having the spare motor in his car to get him around?
I used 0w20 up to 410k the. I recall getting some blowby so switch to 5w20.
 

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Was it extended performance? I'm just curious since I've dived pretty far into oil so I'm curious to see what people used. Like for instance if it was extended performance, 0w-20 has a slightly higher viscosity at 100C compared to 5w-20, which is kind of counter intuitive. So I've been looking at a lot of their listed stats vs just the group numbers that oil companies put on their labels.

I wonder if you were trying to deal with blow by with oil viscosity if you'd been happier with Amsoil 0w-30 since it's just a little more viscous over Mobil 1 0w-20 when at 100C.
 

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Was trying to hit the 1 Million mile record but not going to make it anymore on the original engine! Burnt a valve at 680k but still had 70-90psi compression cylinder 3. But this time #2 cylinder no compression. Plug was oil fouled, start smoking at warm up in the morning about 6 months ago. That might of been a sign. Plan to drop in the spare CVT motor in it
Well, you can take pride in passing the million kilometer mark.
 
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