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Just received an email back from Fine Lines and I was told that they only have replacement brake lines available, not sure what to make of this.
I am organizing a group buy on these ! Same as the Shock Deal that has worked so well on this forum....

The lines are a direct copy of the OEM. (With a couple of improvements for ease of installation)

They are superb In quality and fit! My car was the test fit and design example.... Been done since February.

I have had little time to get this going due to other projects but I'm good now so I can devote a bit of attention to fun stuff like this!

I will have details this evening.. In a later post after work :):
 

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That's great, my car is almost completely disassembled so it's a good opportunity for me to change out the hard lines :)
 

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I am organizing a group buy on these ! Same as the Shock Deal that has worked so well on this forum....

The lines are a direct copy of the OEM. (With a couple of improvements for ease of installation)

They are superb In quality and fit! My car was the test fit and design example.... Been done since February.

I have had little time to get this going due to other projects but I'm good now so I can devote a bit of attention to fun stuff like this!

I will have details this evening.. In a later post after work :):
Any updates?
 

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Where is the page for the group buy?

I'm interested in 2 sets as I just had the line for the LH Front replaced.....ruined my trip from Insight World to Madison.
 

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Yep, Just pulling together after a long week- We'll have details shortly Thanks for your interest. And I had the same thing happen..... About a year ago, that's what caused me to have them duplicated!

Talk to you soon, Kevin
 

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I'm interested in 2 sets as I just had the line for the LH Front replaced.....ruined my trip from Insight World to Madison.
Okay, Finally here, No more Fear of Failure! (Or worse!)


The deal is as follows:

2000-2006 MT Insights... All Stainless Brake Line FULL SETS

Made in USA !! Group Buy 10 Sets at a time...

$290 SHIPPED FREE !!

10 sets are already made and available to ship immediately.

We also have the Fuel Lines in Stainless as well

-with no Tank removal required..

Super Quality and a great fit!

PM me or e-mail for reservations and details:

[email protected]

Happy Insighting! Kevin
 

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Well, it's been a long project on jack stands by myself, but I've replaced all the brake and fuel lines on my Insight using the SS ones Kevin has organized the group buy for. Here's some before pics (more available if anyone is interested.)
 

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And here's some after pics. The fit of the lines isn't perfect, but it is pretty good. I used POR-15 on a bunch of really rusty stuff, including the ABS modulator, and replaced rusty hose clips (many of the small wire ones were falling apart) with monel wire, using a Clamp-tite. I also replaced the gas tank straps because I could and they were rusty. I'm glad I dropped the tank mainly because of said hose clips and also because it let me better fasten the new fuel hoses to avoid chafe. It is a bear to do on jack stands though.
 

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Thanks. If anybody else decides to attempt this alone on jack stands, I'll be glad to provide tips and the needed moral support when you're dealing with the nth rusted fastener... You will get to the point where you need the later. Just did some nice test drives today and braked really hard. Everything seems to be working great. There's still plenty more rust management, but I'm hoping to keep this car running for a long time despite being in the Northeast its whole life. Just picked up some more wire brushes today and a nice big bottle of Ospho the other day. More projects await...
 

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A slight update on my car. In the process of replacing the brake lines, I replaced the cylinders, and the passenger side caliper (with a Honda rebuilt one.) The rear wheels turn very freely; however, the driver's side wheel has quite a bit of resistance and makes some noise when backing up. This seems to be because the caliper just isn't releasing much. I've backed it off with a clamp a couple of times; however, it does the same thing when brakes are reapplied. The passenger's side wheel does this to a lesser extent. I'm guessing that I just need to rebuild the caliper. Does that seem reasonable or is there some other trick to get it to back off better?
 

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Caliper piston has rubber seal, which also acts as return spring when brake pedal is released. With caliper removed, you can check how easily the piston retracts while an assistant slightly depresses and then releases the brake pedal.

You can clean stainless steel pad guides and lubricate them with dry moly spray to make sure the pads move smoothly without binding.

The caliper is self-centering on its guides, which are lubricated with high temperature grease and protected with small accordion boots. Make sure that caliper moves freely on its guides. If necessary, add grease to the guides.

Worn pads tend to misalign and drag.

With calipers removed, it is perfect time to check how freely the front wheels rotate. Resistance could be due to bearing problems.
 

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This is great advice. I've inspected the caliper and the piston doesn't spring back much at all. Much of the rubber looks old and seems like it's ready for a refresh, and the piston has a good bit of surface rust on it. My pads need replacing anyway, so I'm going to replace the piston, all rubber bits, the pads, and the bolts Honda marks to replace.
 

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01 CVT. Last year my return fuel line corroded and began weeping, I repaired that with a piece of rubber fuel line. I just had the brake line corrode thru, fortunately I was stopped at the drive thru teller and realized what happened. Drove it home on the E-brake. Looks like it is the long line to the drivers side rear brake (the one that crosses the car from passenger side thru the gas tank area) Can this line be replaced without dropping the gas tank/exhaust? I don't have a lift either which I know will make the job harder, or impossible? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Looks to me the FedHill copper would be the easiest, bend as you go solution? If I go FedHill what size tubing and fittings do I need?
 

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Yes, you can definitely do this without dropping the tank or exhaust. You won't be able to run the line behind the tank without dropping the gas tank, but it doesn't have to go there. If you get one of the Fine Lines SS ones it'll work or you can fab a similar one yourself.

You don't need a lift, but each extra inch of clearance off the ground will be welcome. Maybe it's just because I did this on 3 ton jackstands, but I think a 21+" floor jack combined with some 6 ton jackstands would make it a fairly pleasant job (just because of the added stability and extra height.)
 

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Thanks for the response. I would go with the Fine Lines SS ones but have gotten no response from Ski Bristol to my e-mail. I will try to PM him. I figure since I had the problem with the fuel line as well I might just drop the tank if need be to replace that as well. Just found Fine Lines on the net. Price is a little higher than Ski Bristol quoted but it has been a couple years. Where did you find the best place to set your jack stands to be?
 

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If you can't get in touch with Kevin for the 'group buy' price, Fine Lines will sell direct I believe.

You *might* be able to replace the fuel lines without dropping the tank if you wanted to. You need to remove the panel behind the seats anyway to get to the top of the tank to do the connections anyway. Both the OEM and the Fine Lines fuel lines are soft after the bend up towards the fuel tank, so it is fairly easy to fish them in and out. The only difficulty would be attaching them to the clip way up in there so they didn't chafe or flop about. If you're clever and have some long tools, you might be able to figure out a way to do it or otherwise secure them. Of course, if you drop the tank, you can replace any rusty hose clips, too. Dropping the tank will be way easier with a separate jack under it, and ideally on an almost empty tank.

As for jacking, each side of the Insight has three jacking tabs on either side. One behind the front wheel, a beefier one behind it and a third in front of the rear wheel. I put my floor jack on the beefy one, and lifted that side of the car until I could get 2 jack stands under that side using the other 2 tabs. After lowering it and making sure it was secure, I went to the other side and lifted it up all the way using its beefy jack point and lowering down onto jackstands. I then returned to the first side and lifted it all the way, carefully. With 3 ton jack stands and my lesser floor jack, sometimes the car would try and tilt the jack stands. If you take it slow and are observant, you can nudge the car to the side to sit firmly on the jackstands. A very smooth rolling floor jack and/or 6 ton jackstands would make the whole thing safer. If I recall correctly, I had my front jack stands fully raised and the rear ones a notch or two down. I made sure all the jack stands had the weight nicely centered on their feet and the car felt really secure if I nudged it. I also retained the floor jack with less pressure under one of the beefy jack points. I would've loved to raise the car a little bit more if I could have, but I was able to move around pretty nicely on a creeper. Prior to jacking, I loosened up the lug nuts. Afterwards, I removed the wheels and placed some double stacked rims in strategic locations to provide some security, just in case something went wrong with one or more jack stands.

Before you do all this, I recommend getting a good long look under the car one way or the other and making an inventory of any other parts you might need. Also, make sure all your bleeder valves still turn. Presoak them with PB Blaster or the like and be very careful loosening them. They're easy to break.

If you want to drop the fuel tank, but your exhaust is too rusty to want to take off (like mine,) you can remove the rear bumper and carefully lower the exhaust down and to the right, hanging it from something using twine or wire. I was able to do this without cracking the rusty parts of my exhaust. I did leave the rubber hanger at the front of the exhaust attached for this.
 
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