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I recently had my RR line rupture on my 2000 MT. I've read through a few threads, but was wondering if there was any more definitive preference on the replacement material. It seems that the copper nickle lines are easier to work with and are likely less expensive. Any further pros of the stainless lines? It seems that some people are having trouble getting in touch with Ski Bristol about the group buy. Unfortunately I don't have a lift available and the car is completely without brakes. As others have noted, it makes sense to do everything in one go since all of the lines are not in great shape, but was considering potentially a temp replacement of the bad line to get it driveable again to maybe wait for the stainless lines. I'm sure I don't want to go the OEM route.
 

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I assume my Insight had all this replaced before I bought it from AtiKovi and I didn't move the car much in winter. So mine should still be good.
 

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I see nothing wrong with a temporary fix if you also inspect all the lines visually and then test it with some rough braking afterwards to make sure it can hold pressure. Carefully inspect all parts of the braking system visually to see what other parts you might need, and put penetrating oil on anything you later hope to take apart. I have no opinion to offer on SS vs CuNi, except to say that having them prebent might save you time.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

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Replace rearmost brake lines first

I am in an high road salt area -- Minneapolis.

The service manager told me that I had rusty rear brake lines. I took these off myself. One or both of the rearmost brake lines fell apart in my hands.

I had Honda fix the rearmost brake lines approx. 2009.

Very recently, I had Honda do a job replacing the muffler, lowering the fuel tank, and replacing the long brake lines going from back to front. (at 240,000 miles.)

I am planning to replace the long front engine compartment lines along with removal of the tie rods.

The rearmost brake lines can be replaced easily and inexpensively by Honda. You can take the advice of Honda regarding the replacement of the other lines. Some of the lines may be discontinued if you wait.
 

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Okay, Finally here, No more Fear of Failure! (Or worse!)


The deal is as follows:

2000-2006 MT Insights... All Stainless Brake Line FULL SETS

Made in USA !! Group Buy 10 Sets at a time...

$290 SHIPPED FREE !!

10 sets are already made and available to ship immediately.

We also have the Fuel Lines in Stainless as well

-with no Tank removal required..

Super Quality and a great fit!

PM me or e-mail for reservations and details:

[email protected]

Happy Insighting! Kevin

Anything setup like this for CVTs?
Just thinking ahead, but I know stainless would be helpful with my salty roads
 

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Okay, Finally here, No more Fear of Failure! (Or worse!)


The deal is as follows:

2000-2006 MT Insights... All Stainless Brake Line FULL SETS

Made in USA !! Group Buy 10 Sets at a time...

$290 SHIPPED FREE !!

10 sets are already made and available to ship immediately.

We also have the Fuel Lines in Stainless as well

-with no Tank removal required..

Super Quality and a great fit!

PM me or e-mail for reservations and details:

[email protected]

Happy Insighting! Kevin
So my wife is wanting more info, measurements, etc if possible. She and a co-worker want to make me a set, to have for the future.

Any information on this?
 

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Rusty Brake Lines

I have 2 Insights, one is a 2000 the other 2001. Both cars are from the Northern regions of the US. The 2000 has 110,000 miles on the Odometer. The 2001 has 135,000 miles on it. Both cars had brake line failures within 2 weeks of each other. The 2000 had failed in the area of the front firewall under the master cylinder area. The 2001 had a failure in the right rear brake line.

The parts shipped from Majestic yesterday to repair the 2000. Will probably be repairing it this weekend. Any advice on getting the lines run along the firewall. I had to cut the one I removed to get it out of the car.

Larry
 

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I think all serious about replacing my brake line before the next winter.
last month I replace my brake caliper front and installed new rotor and pads.
for reasons of security I believe it is necessary to replace the brake line and the flexible hoses.
I made a step to make me an inventory of equipment to buy and tools has given me.
I probably have more question to ask you but I quickly learned to read on this subject.
 

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Just wanted to confirm that the Insight uses standard 45 degree double flare brake lines, and the nuts are M10 x 1.0.

Spent the last 40 minutes searching this forum and got a confirmation on the nuts, but not the flare style. Yep, 99% of cars are but wanted to make sure as (an you believe it?!) I have never had to flare a brake line before.

Last stop Friday I started the car while pressing the brake, which promptly went to the floor. Two more pumps and "Hmm...that's not right". Found a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the rear right of the car where the line had burst at the fitting due to rust. Thankfully the stop was only about 1KM from my parents house, so a careful drive using only regen and the parking brake (yes, I realise Insights have dual circuit brakes and the front brakes would have kept working but I wanted to "save" that for a possible panic stop) got the car safely to a driveway.
 

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Just bought my insight this weekend and I bought it knowing a brake line was blown but I fixed that, as I went to work a gas line was leaking as well. The main point of failure seems to be the metal harnesses holding the lines to the frame.
 

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I just finish to install the cylinder at rear wheel and the line of 12 inch nicoop between the cylinder and hose flexible.now i able to bleed all wheel.
I inspect the rear brake line and is not to bad .i receive yesterday the 4 flexible hose from rock auto.
Somebody tell me if its not broken dont fix it.
My front line brake and clutch is really rusty .i think de next step it was change line betwen the master cylindre and the abs modulator.i have to measure the lenght of the line and buy a line nicoop all flare and nuts.and after is was the front wheels line and flexible hose.

Hope me good luck.
 

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Buy a line cutting tool and a flare tool for $15 or so off amazon, then just buy your own line and cut it to size.

I use cupronickle as well, love how easy it bends and never have had it rupture like straight copper does over time.
 

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according to you who replace your brake line which is the step to be followed and the trap has not to do.

I would start by replacing my two brake line which are situated between the master cylinder and the abs unit

How i can take care of the master cylinder et abs modulator.

Thank :confused:
 

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I took the advice of some that have had Insights for years as well as other cars. Coat them in FluidFilm and keep them coated every couple years. Can't hurt.
 

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Another little observation to add regarding the stainless brake lines. I have started to notice some rust at the brass unions. I'll be coating them in Fluid Film, but if I was doing it from scratch again, I'd probably get some nice electrical heat shrink of the appropriate diameter and encapsulate the unions from the get go.
 

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I probably paid about $350 for all the lines. It was a non-trivial task that probably took at least 12 hours... And that's with a lift.
Bringing this back from the dead. I wish I had a lift and after this job as soon as I get some money I am going to invest in one. Sucks to be under the car on a creeper. I ordered these brake lines but the clips are all rusted up and I am wondering if I have to drop the tank. Thinking I will need to drop the rear LCA or sub-frame as some refer to it as. Why they didn't make these parts out of stainless to begin with... I guess that would make them last too long. Did you guys have to drop the tank to finish up the job as I am thinking I may have to do or is there a way to skirt that and just drop it a little without having to dissaemble everything here?
Thanks
 

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Hi Saxjonz, I did have to remove the tank but did not remove any suspension components. Keep in mind that I was using the factory replacement parts. I believe others may have used custom lines that may not have required the tank to be removed. I was replacing the fuel lines also, however, so I needed to drop the tank anyway. Good luck.. it’s quite a job but it’s definitely doable.
 

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I dropped the tank, but was doing fuel lines as well. With the aftermarket lines, I think you could do it without dropping the tank IF you don't care about securing them to the one clip high up in there, or have small hands perhaps. I also replaced the straps that hold up the tank because they were quite rusty. The tank would've been much easier to drop if it had been nearly empty. I did need to move the exhaust slightly to the side to get it out. I removed the rear bumper cover and moved the exhaust slightly to the side and down after removing most of the rubber hangers. I couldn't remove my exhaust at the time because the second catalytic converter was basically rust/welded to the bolt that held it on.
 
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