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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got this 2000 insight running it needed a fuel pump and some TLC. Purchased a grid charger got everything charged up but the IMA isn't working and it won't charge? I pulled the fuse and when I put it back the charging light went up like 3 bars then nothing any suggestions?
 

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Have you yet determined what sticks are in the pack? That has a lot of impact on the success of grid charging. Pull the cover and look at the color of the sticks. If Honda, they will probably look orange or yellowish orange.

Also look for label on left front mounting fork. There may be a decal which says either "Panasonic" or "Primeearth" both of which come from Honda and are OEM.

The three bars (actually four) while engine running is the so called "mandatory" ballancing charge, if I understand your correctly. If the battery is any good at all, it should run for a while then go out. That will likely be followed by a positive recharge with the state of charge gauge(SOC) going down then up to full.

Might be wrong. Little hard to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you yet determined what sticks are in the pack? That has a lot of impact on the success of grid charging. Pull the cover and look at the color of the sticks. If Honda, they will probably look orange or yellowish orange.

Also look for label on left front mounting fork. There may be a decal which says either "Panasonic" or "Primeearth" both of which come from Honda and are OEM.

The three bars (actually four) while engine running is the so called "mandatory" ballancing charge, if I understand your correctly. If the battery is any good at all, it should run for a while then go out. That will likely be followed by a positive recharge with the state of charge gauge(SOC) going down then up to full.

Might be wrong. Little hard to follow.
Thanks for the reply actually I talked to the guy who had it and he had someone replace some dead cells and on the instillation the IMA never worked again afterwards.
So now I know it had it messed with
 

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Yeah, hard to understand your situation exactly. When you say "charging light" and "3 bars," do you mean the green CHRG bars or the orange BAT (state of charge) bars? Basically, if you grid charged for 24+ hours, the pack theoretically should be full, so when you pull the fuse and key ON, you might see some green charge bars for a very short spell, but they should go away and your BAT gauge should be at or go to the 19th bar. You probably won't get any regen charge during driving, not until you use some assist... This is all what should happen, if the pack's OK, assuming you did a full grid charge.

If someone tried to revive the pack by replacing cells (probably 'sticks' - 6 cell batteries), chances are high that it wasn't a successful fix... You typically can't just replace sticks and expect the pack to work, in part because you typically can't find the truly bad ones in the first place. In any event, it really doesn't take much to have a working pack, so there may still be hope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the pack was messed up would it still charge to 175v like it did? I'm hoping it's a plug or wire not reconnected
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry about that I'm talking about the green charge light right next to the assist going to the IMA not the IMA battery itself. Was hoping once I switched everything back on that the battery itself would of shown it was charged
 

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3 bars with the engine running?
Let it run at idle for a while and se if the IMA bars go to the max. illumination. Don't drive or rev. the engine.
Probably at least 5-10 minutes.
 

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Also look for label on left front mounting fork. There may be a decal which says either "Panasonic" or "Primeearth" both of which come from Honda and are OEM.
If the sticker is there it may still be a reconditioned pack as I have one such professionally rebuilt pack that still has the sticker. However I also have another rebuilt pack without the sticker. So if there is a sticker you cannot tell if it has been rebuilt. If it does not have the sticker it almost certainly has been rebuilt.
 

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Taking the battery pack out today will find out what's in it
You don't have to take it out to do that. Just shine a flashlight through the cooling fan to see the stick color. You can also see the decal/sticker. Sean is right though. You can encounter lots of combinations with these old batteries.

If you should see yellow or orange mixed with green, black, blue, etc. then the prior effort probably mixed some Chinese replacements in with OEM sticks. That would be a very shakey combination IMO.

You SHOULD read your tap voltages. This would provide a huge amount of info to those trying to help. Search on "tap voltages" with the search bar at top of page. Hopefully you will find a plug diagram and instructions. I don't have a link handy.

Be warned that you are tinkering an area which doesn't show much success, particularly with inexperienced folk. You can get into some real huge timewasters without any real success;)
 

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Searching for P1568 on this (InsightCentral or IC) site I found this: link

TLDR: both BCM and MDM modules were eventually replaced. This may or may not apply to you. Follow the troubleshooting steps in the link.

You can search for more, IC has tons of info.
 

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Po113
P1568
DTC P1568 (66): Battery Module Individual Voltage Input Problem

DTC P1568 (67): Battery Module Temperature Signal Circuit Problem

DTC P1568 (70): Battery Cell Temperature Signal Circuit Problem

All the "P1568" codes sound very pack related. You need a better scan tool to read the "sub code" (66,67 or 70) in any case it sounds like it's the battery pack.

the P0113 could just be a missing/unplugged sensor, check it with "live data" after physically verifying it is installed and plugged in with good wiring. I think it is located in the air cleaner intake "snorkle".
 
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