[ddhollon]

Hello Everyone,

I'm new to the Insight community and forums. I own a 04' HCH (but just bought a 2000 Insight for $2,500!)

It is a 5 speed manual with 110,000 miles but needs a new battery. It has the error code P1447 which from reading is battery deteriation. I'm looking for some advice on where to get the battery fixed or to get a new battery. From looking at a lot of posts here several people have recommended www.hybrid-battery-repair.com and getting the "BetterBattery" as from what I have read is much better than the original and should last a while longer. What are your thoughts on that?

Also as far as the BCM I assume it is all original also. How exactly would I figure out if it is and if so would you recommend upgrading it to the later version?

Again sorry if anything is obvious but like I said I just got the Insight. Thanks in advance for all the help! Looking forward to getting even more MPG now than with my current 04' HCH.

 

[kennysmith]

Congratulations! I've owned an '03 HCH for several years before getting my 2000 Insight 18 mo ago. I love them both.

I'm not the expert around here, but I would suggest not driving the car (or disconnecting the battery) until you can try grid charging the battery. I think many have had luck with the 1447. I think P1449 is the kiss of death, which I understand usually arrives after a few months of P1447. The best charger is Mike's http://99mpg.com/Projectcars/gridcharger/ but there are none available right now. Possibly you live near someone who could help you. Add your location to your name. Or you can build your own charger if you are handy. I think Mike used to rent one out.

I'm pretty sure most people around here would buy the better battery from HBR though there is a substantial wait time and from the stories we hear they usually underestimate the wait time. There is also lots of info on this site about rebuilding your own battery if you have the inclination. I'd love to buy an insight for $2500!

 

[ddhollon]

Well after hooking up the batter pack back up (previous owner unhooked it and didn't know it) I disconnected the negative battery cable and let it charge completely. Everything started working perfect for about 200 miles. It then disabled the IMA and I get the error codes P1438 & P1439. After talking to the previous owner he said the took another battery back and tested all the different sticks in each one and combined the good ones together to make a good pack. Any suggestions on how to re-balance the pack? Or on the overheating cells issue? As both are what I see the error codes mean.

 

[Eli]

P1438 and P1439 have nothing to do with unbalanced or overheating cells.

P1438 is MDM overheating. Check to make sure the MDM blower is connected and working.

P1439 is MDM short circuit. Not sure on this one, check the wiring out.. once you're sure the MDM blower is working, reset the codes and see if they come back.

 

[ddhollon]

Wow you are completely right. I just looked at the chart wrong. I had just gotten back from driving the car home all at one time. ~1100 miles. Florida to Kentucky. I will check this out tomorrow and see what it might be.

Thank you so much for clearing that up for me!

 

[ddhollon]

Okay just to clarify here I have uploaded two images of the battery pack. The first image named1".jpg" is of the right side near the BCM. I tested this with a tester and the fan came on no problems. I assume the blower/fan for the MDM is what I have pictured on the image named "2.jpg"

For testing this I will just hook it up manually to make sure it is working just like the first fan at the BCM. As far as when I turn the engine on neither fan/blower is working. Do they always run or do they only run when a certain temperature is achieved? Are there any certain fuses/relays that I should check for to make sure are still in tact?

Thanks!

 

[Eli]

They both only run when things start getting hot, so other than testing to see if they physically work it could be a bit of a dilemma.

 

[ddhollon]

Okay I just tested the blower motor for the MDM and it came on just fine. At this point I am thinking it is either a fuse/relay/temp sensor. I have an Actron scanner that I am using to detect the trouble codes and I try and clear them but it will never erase the IMA light. I don't know if maybe this scanner will not work for this car or not. Even when the key is just on I would think that I could clear the code and when I start it the code would appear back.

Also is the blower for the MDM always on when the car is on? Or does it only come on at a certain temp? Also if the IMA is disabled would the fan still work? As maybe it could be just the code will not clear?

 

[retepsnikrep]

As both those codes relate to the MDM I concur nothing to do with the batteries.

Your MDM is suspect one from a scrap car should be pretty cheap probably worth swapping it over.

Searching on the short circuit code brings up one of my own threads among others which indicates the IGBT module in the mdm is setting a short circuit fail flag. So it's either bad wiring or an excessive current really is flowing

Check all wiring and plug unplug all connectors if it comes back then change MDM.

 

[ddhollon]

I think that the MDM could have possibly went bad. I will try and locate one I guess. My car is a 2000 with a 5 speed manual transmission. Is there any particular setups that I need to look for. IE: Year and transmission type that would be the same as mine?

Also is it very difficult to change out the MDM? It seemed pretty straight forward but I didn't know if anyone had in instructions/directions/tips that might help.

Thanks!

 

[Eli]

AFAIK all model years are the same.

Seems a little odd. I would try resetting the codes and see if they come back before replacing it.

 

[Willie Williford]

Your actron code scanner "will not" clear the IMA codes, as it is a "manufacturer specific code". You have to disconnect the negative cable of the 12V battery for at least 15 sec. for the IMA codes to be erased. Don't panic, weird things will happen after that....be patient and do a lot of reading here at ICN.
HTH
Willie

 

[ddhollon]

I have tried disconnecting the negative battery cable several times now with no luck. It is not loosing a connections somehow because the radio pre-sets and clock are not loosing. Is there anyway the ima battery could keep it from resetting itself?

I find it hard to believe the MDM would just go bad like that but I am new to insights. I've currently got it unhooked with all the harnesses to the battery, bcm, and anything else I could see for a few minutes and will see if that does the trick.

Thanks!

 

[Eli]

I agree, it does seem weird. It's certainly not common.

I've never heard of anyone having trouble resetting the systems. Make sure you disconnect it completely for like 15 seconds. Heck, remove the battery completely from the car if you have to, that should do the trick.

 

[kennysmith]

Which battery are you disconnecting? They are talking about the 12V battery in the engine compartment.

 

[AClewell]

I wonder if the DC/DC converter is staying on.

When you turn the key on does the little battery light come on before you start the car?

You could disconnect the 12v and then turn the IMA breaker off. That would kill the power for sure.

 

[Eli]

Oh... I hope he's not disconnecting the negative terminal of the IMA battery, lol. That isn't going to do much.

 

[ddhollon]

lol no I'm not disconnecting the IMA negative terminal. I'm disconnecting 12V battery under the hood! lol This time I disconnecting the battery completely under the hood, flipped the switch on the IMA and unplugged the harnesses that are connected to the modules and left if for around 15min.

It did reset the clock and radio however the check engine lights and IMA light are on even before I turn the engine on. And I'm not talking about when you first turn your key on and all the lights pop up sometimes. Before I even start the car I turn the key on and check the codes and they are there?

Can the IMA give two codes before it is even started? To me it still seems like the ECU isn't releasing the codes properly.

 

[retepsnikrep]

Can the IMA give two codes before it is even started?

Yes it can if the codes are relevant serious enough. If the main IGBT has failed or some other short exists the system won't energise the main IMA contactor.

Try to borrow an OBDIIC&C gauge or HDS/HIM Tool and use that to clear the IMA error memory and or OBDII codes.

 

[kennysmith]

Does anyone understand how pulling the 12V cables would not reset the clock & radio? I have no clue how DC-DC operates, but is there a relay stuck on or something? I know I should stay out of this discussion, but can't help myself.