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Discussion Starter #1
Hello.
Hoping some of you will have some insights and knowledge to point me in good direction.

Our Insight, a 2001 automatic, approximately 60,000 mileage, has been sitting since covid19, then before that limited driving since summer, as we continue dealing with my husbands serious medical issues.

Just put in new ordinary car battery, thus it starts up just fine now.
I saw no warning lights come on.

It is parked in a parking space, where it can only back out, no going forward.
When it’s put in reverse, it seems to want to go, but does Not move. Sounds good to me.

Had a neighbor check the transmission fluid level, which he said it looked low. after reading some posts here, I then asked where the fluid was and he said he didn’t see the two marks on the dipstick. I will go out tonight to check
this again for hopefully better clarification.

I did stop by a Honda dealership and picked up CVT transmission fluid. Due to where the car is currently, would be able to add some. But probably be tough to do a drain. Parts guy was not helpful at all.

Would anyone have any thoughts on what this problem might be?
Any helpful suggestions or experiences that may shed some light on what I should do?

If I add some transmission fluid, how much should I put in?
or is this not what you are thinking the problem is?

Any past posts, you think might be helpful that, I may have missed?

Thank you and I’m looking forward to reading your posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, forgot to ask, does anyone have any experience with Lucas Oil products (link below) or similar products?

A friend has had good luck with their products, but the one he used was not for CVT. So, found their site and they do have a product made for CVTs. Any thoughts on using this/these products?

This is my husbands car, he drove it the most. I do remember him advising having some problems with the big battery, IMA, right before he stopped driving it.

I‘m thinking it might be beneficial to unhook the IMA for a time. Would some please walk me through how to do this?

I can fit underneath the car, but I don’t have the strongest upper body. For instance, I know how to change my tire, but the problem was, I couldn’t loosen the lug nuts.

Thanks, I await your wisdom.
 

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If you + neighbour can push it out and see if it moves forward in gear?

If no forward or reverse movement in drive then one of two issues.

1) Rodents might have chewed wires or CVT shift cables seized in storage.

2) Flywheel splines stripped :( although your's is quite low mileage for that to happen.
 

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Posting your location is good as someone might be able to point you to help in your area or even come by and offer assistance.

Is there a chance the park brake is locked up? Can you put it in neutral and will it roll?

Scott
 
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Don’t use that Lucas oil. It’s always been recommended to only use genuine Honda CVT Fluid in these boxes and others have run into problems when using other brand fluids. This box is very fussy.

There are two marks on the stick: a cold fill line and hot fill line. If you fill to a little over the cold fill line when cold it’ll be about right. The fill plug is under the air box and needs a 17mm socket with a long extension on it and it’ll be reaaaaally tight. Undo the airbox bolts so you can get access.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We are in central Iowa.
Doubled checked by putting the ER brake on then off.
Tried putting it in both reverse and drive. Found it does same
thing, as it kind of jumps w/o jumping, but doesn’t move, although
it sure seems like it wants to.
Tried putting it into neutral, but unable to push it.
Sounds great, starts up w/o any problem.
Checked the transmission fluid level and it’s just a ‘hair‘
lower than the lowest line at the bottom.
So, decided not to crawl under the car to put any additional
in at this time, as it sounds like I may not even be able to
loosen.

Can one see the CVT shift cable wires from under the hood?
would one be able to tell, just by sight or feel if they are still
intact?

Would anyone have any approximation on how much it
would cost for a tow, transmission fluid change, oil change,
plus mechanical time to pinpoint problem then fix?

Nearest Honda, would be in Clive, Ia, called Smart Honda.

Would you recommend just taking it there?

Or try anything else?

You all just been so great and helpful. I really appreciate
all the advice and how quickly you all responded. Thank
you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Would there be any maintenance, or anything any of you
would suggest having done at the dealership while it’s
there?
Especially, since it’s been sitting longer than
we liked it to.

So, probably also change brake fluid, any other fluids?
Any other thoughts that would be hard for me to do, and /
or be beneficial since it’ll be at the mechanics that you
would just have them go ahead and do?
 

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I'm sorry, but I'd never take one of these now old cars to a dealer. They will charge several times what the car is worth. Are you dependent on this car for basic transportation?

Have you checked sale prices lately? The car might bring $2000 in current condition. Don't send much "good" money after "bad.";)

A couple of maintenance measures come to mind, but again I don't think you want to pay a dealer to do them.
1. Drain, flush cooling system and add fresh coolant. This is a complex operation, but within reach of a slightly qualified home mechanic.
2. As suggested, change the brake fluid. Again, somewhat complex but in reach of home mechanic.

Be careful and deliberate here with this car. You don't seem like a mechanic and you can throw a lot of money into this car.:cautious:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Some good things to think about. I will have to discuss
in length with my husband later when he’s feeling up to it.

Jime, we have another car. Right now, we have been only driving
the one.

Would you give us your thoughts
on what Would be your threshold on when to get rid of it?

Maybe this would be a good time before we do spend
a lot of money, maybe more money than we would get
back if we sell it, Know what I mean?

Just like Along the lines you were talking about.
In the very near future we would
have to replace, at least, the IMA.

Would you recommend selling it and how to decide on how
much to ask for it?
Would there be many buyers for a car like
this? Would we have to fix as in get in to move before selling it?
Right now I cannot get it to move.

Yes, you are correct the last time we took it to a dealer,
many years ago, it was such an awful experience.

If we do decide to take it to a mechanic, has anyone had good
luck through the Costco service?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I’m still thinking about this car. Would it just be something simple
on why it won’t move?

Would it be helpful to buy one of those code readers?

I did a search doesn’t appear auto stores loan them out anymore
to take and borrow.
 

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I'm still liking Scott's idea that the handbrake cables are stuck. When you put it in neutral it should roll. Maybe you should jack one side off the ground at a time and see which wheels won't turn when it's in neutral and the brake's off. Do it safely by blocking a wheel still on the ground, of course. I'm not sure about the front wheels, but the back wheels should rotate freely if the brake cables are not stuck.
 

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Let's don't get ahead of ourselves. The rest doesn't matter until you get the CVT working. I would start by filling the fluid. You can do this easily by pouring it slowly with a small funnel in the dipstick tube.

I doubt if a code reader will tell you anything unless you have a Check Engine Light.

Sam
 
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She said the fluid is just a hair below the bottom line, which is probably where it should be when it's cold. Even warm I don't think that would keep it from moving. She says it jumps so I think the transmission is ready to go, the car is just stuck in place.
 
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Yeah. I see that it won't roll. Fix that first.

Sam
 
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^ +1. Sort out the transmission problem before spending a nickel on anything else.

1. Top up the fluid.
2. Look under the air cleaner to see top of the transmission and the shifting cable. Have someone operate the shift lever to see if you see the cable and the little crank moving.
3. Roll the car in neutral, as indicated above.
4. Look for signs that mice may have chewed wiring.
5. Check the grounds under hood. Willie will post the picture.
6. Maybe other cheap checks.

Given these steps, then suspect the stripped flywheel as retepsnikrep suggested. That would be a show stopper for the car since I don't think you are mechanic enough to replace the transmission.

I personally believe that if you have to hire ANY mechanic for this old, obscure car, then you are in over your head. For these old cars, the dealers are exorbitantly expensive and most others won't know enough about the car to give good advice and/or service. JMHO.
 

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If you insist:
 

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My threshold of pain and yours would probably differ. I think for a non mechanic that you should let go if the transmission or the flywheel is bad. These old cars are best in the hands of those who do their own work and paying to replace either would be expensive.

One big question hasn't been asked. Was the transmission working properly when it was parked??

With the low mileage some mechanically handy person would buy the car and fix it for their own use. Right now the market is highly fluid so no way to say what you'd get. Probably a little early to think of that dramatic a step.

The IMA battery is a know factor and you can easily decide whether that is worth it to you. Refurbished batteries with new Chinese replacement cells can be had for anywhere between $1400, 1 yr warranty, to $2400 for top of line 5 year warranty Bumblebee. Installation isn't terribly complicated or dangerous if directions are followed. Is the IMA showing signs of having problems??
 

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I think stuck brakes are a likely cause. Jack up each corner (starting with the rear) and make sure you can turn the wheels.

Sam
 
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I think stuck brakes are a likely cause. Jack up each corner (starting with the rear) and make sure you can turn the wheels.

Sam
Def this and most likely the rears.
 
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