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2001 Honda automatic Insight

4K views 41 replies 10 participants last post by  eq1 
#1 ·
Hello.
Hoping some of you will have some insights and knowledge to point me in good direction.

Our Insight, a 2001 automatic, approximately 60,000 mileage, has been sitting since covid19, then before that limited driving since summer, as we continue dealing with my husbands serious medical issues.

Just put in new ordinary car battery, thus it starts up just fine now.
I saw no warning lights come on.

It is parked in a parking space, where it can only back out, no going forward.
When it’s put in reverse, it seems to want to go, but does Not move. Sounds good to me.

Had a neighbor check the transmission fluid level, which he said it looked low. after reading some posts here, I then asked where the fluid was and he said he didn’t see the two marks on the dipstick. I will go out tonight to check
this again for hopefully better clarification.

I did stop by a Honda dealership and picked up CVT transmission fluid. Due to where the car is currently, would be able to add some. But probably be tough to do a drain. Parts guy was not helpful at all.

Would anyone have any thoughts on what this problem might be?
Any helpful suggestions or experiences that may shed some light on what I should do?

If I add some transmission fluid, how much should I put in?
or is this not what you are thinking the problem is?

Any past posts, you think might be helpful that, I may have missed?

Thank you and I’m looking forward to reading your posts.
 
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#32 ·
No. It's just humidity and rust. Stuff like that is not uncommon when a car sits. Not always, but sometimes.

Sam
 
#33 ·
It doesn't have anything to do with the battery, but I don't remember how CVTs work. If one side is raised and it is in neutral I would expect the raised wheel to rotate. It wouldn't if it was in Park. But I remember my Civic Hybrid which had a CVT did not like to roll backward in neutral with the engine running. It would roll a few feet and jerk like I had put it in a forward gear only to release and roll back a few more feet and repeat. I think it would roll fine if the engine wasn't running. I wish I had a Honda with a CVT and could double check. I wish I was nearby and could check it out because I can't believe you have a serious problem.
 
#34 ·
Hey guys, To get that tire off would a impact wrench be the one to do? Found it
listed on the loan program. Would there be any other tool here that would be helpful
with where the situation stands?
my husband tried to get the tire off, but he’s weak right now, so wasn’t able
to budge the ones really on there. He took your tip making an extension, but still
wasnt able to loosen all of them.

 
#35 · (Edited)
#36 · (Edited)
yup, work on stuck wheel until the car rolls easily in neutral, then try reverse and drive. The little hop you describe sound like the CVT is attempting to turn the drive wheels, but finding them locked up for some reason. I think when all the wheels are spinning free, the car will move forward and back just fine. Sometime hitting the frozen wheel and tire numberous time will rubber head mallet will get things to turn loose. Get healthy and stay healthy if you can.
 
#37 ·
Got tire off and you all were correct. The problem is heavy rust.
A lot of rust. Banged, hit a lot with a two pound mallet, but it seems it made no difference.

Should I have bought the larger mallet? I didn’t want to damage anything, so went with
2 lbs. In stock choices were 1, 2, or 4 lbs. Had to order the wrench online, which took longer
to arrive and went with the above suggestion, as it appears there’s a brand new version.

That Gorilla torque wrench made a huge difference as was using a four way before. The two
do not compare.

Did I just not hit it enough to make a difference or is there an easier option to think about?
 
#40 ·
I have PB Blaster on the shelf and I like it, but I think all the penetrating oils work and do the same thing. CRC Knock'er Loose Plus gets good reviews. I have never tried it. I think WD 40 and Liquid Wrench brands have specialty penetrating oil formulations. Maybe others here have solid recommendations about specific brands and formulations.

Keep looking at the brake caliper/pads/rotor assembly to make sure that the brake assembly is operational - that it grabs and releases the rotor. I would think about putting a wrench on the bleeder for the brake caliper and loosening it enough to make sure you don't have brake fluid pressure built up somehow that has the brake assembly locked hard on the rotor. That does not seem likely to me, but if was happening for some reason, then mallet and penetrating oil will not free the wheel because the problem is not rust, it is a locked up brake caliper. You said, "a lot of rust", so it's probably rust, not a locked up caliper.

Patience and attention to details pay off with this kind of task. Others here may have better ideas, but I think you are on the right track attacking the rust with penetrating oil and the mallet.
 
#41 ·
A pic of what you are working on would help. Maybe try to pry the brake pad away from the disc. That would be the largest contact point.
 
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