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Discussion Starter #1
HI, I recently had my vehicle serviced and as soon as I drove off the lot both the check engine and IMA lights came on. I brought the vehicle back for them to check and they are claiming that the following codes were triggered: P1600 IMA system malfunction, 58 charge/discharge balance problem, P0A7F battery module deterioration. These lights were not on prior to having the car serviced with a transmission flush and valve adjustment.

After picking the car back up they conclude that code 58 system is ok at this time as per flow chart. Idle speed may need adjusted after repairing code P0A7F, and that the hybrid battery will need to be replaced. Help! Battery was fine and fully charged. Is it possible that something else is the issue? Help! How do I repair this? Is it okay to drive with these lights on?

Many kind thanks,
Paula
 

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How long was the car with them?

Did they do any work in the rear of the car?

Are the IMA & CEL warning lights still on?

Is the 12V battery ign warning light on?

It could be an unfortunate coincidence as the codes they are reporting don't have anything to do with the systems they were servicing.
 

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The P0A7F is equivalent to the P1449-78, which means the pack is severely imbalanced. At least one cell was found to be empty, and then when the battery management tried to charge the pack, it couldn't get much in there before at least one cell reached full... The 1600 is a generic code that can trigger when any IMA fault happens.

The -58, according to the manual, has to do with the 12V battery. I've seen someone mention that before, but it's not common, and I don't really understand what it's all about. The gist of it is, if your 12V battery warning light is ON, there's a problem, if it's not ON than everything's fine.

I think the first thing to do would be to check the ground cables, 3 of them, to lower driver side of air box + 12V neg ground, make sure they're not broken, that they're clean, solid, etc. It's possible your mechanics jostled an ailing ground and pushed it over the edge. Search for 'grounds' if you need more info.

For P1449-78, I think you'll have to do a search on that and read the various ideas. There's a couple threads I've been posting in just the last week or so, going over things to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How long was the car with them?

Did they do any work in the rear of the car?

Are the IMA & CEL warning lights still on?

Is the 12V battery ign warning light on?

It could be an unfortunate coincidence as the codes they are reporting don't have anything to do with the systems they were servicing.
Hi, thank you for your response. The car was with them for less than a week. I had the transmission flushed and a valve adjustment. No lights prior to the servicing with a fully working hybrid battery. Only the check engine light and IMA lights are on, no CEL or 12V battery light. My sense is that it's not a coincidence and that something was done to cause this.

What do you recommend?

Thanks again,
Paula
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The P0A7F is equivalent to the P1449-78, which means the pack is severely imbalanced. At least one cell was found to be empty, and then when the battery management tried to charge the pack, it couldn't get much in there before at least one cell reached full... The 1600 is a generic code that can trigger when any IMA fault happens.

The -58, according to the manual, has to do with the 12V battery. I've seen someone mention that before, but it's not common, and I don't really understand what it's all about. The gist of it is, if your 12V battery warning light is ON, there's a problem, if it's not ON than everything's fine.

I think the first thing to do would be to check the ground cables, 3 of them, to lower driver side of air box + 12V neg ground, make sure they're not broken, that they're clean, solid, etc. It's possible your mechanics jostled an ailing ground and pushed it over the edge. Search for 'grounds' if you need more info.

For P1449-78, I think you'll have to do a search on that and read the various ideas. There's a couple threads I've been posting in just the last week or so, going over things to try.
Thank you for your response. No 12V battery light so that's a relief. My sense is that something was done to cause this because there were no lights prior to the servicing and the hybrid battery was working fine with a full charge. How do I get the hybrid battery recharged and working properly?

Thanks again,
Paula
 

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I think if its not bad earths or a bad 12v battery and they haven't been in the back then you are unlucky and it is an actual IMA battery problem caused by the week long lay up, so check them first.

If they are ok I suggest reset the codes by pulling fuse 18 under dash or the 12v battery negative for 30 seconds and see if they come back.

If the lights come back on do the blink code procedure and video the blinks and post on YT with a link here.
 

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^ My thoughts pretty much exactly...

...My sense is that something was done to cause this because there were no lights prior to the servicing and the hybrid battery was working fine with a full charge.
"Full charge" on the dash BATT gauge can mean pretty much anything. It's really hard to tell when the pack is imbalanced or when there's a problem. By the time the car 'throws a code', it's been bad for a while, IMA battery DTCs are seriously lagging indicators...
 

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You IMA system having issues is completely coincidental to the service you had performed.

There is no way the mechanic who worked on the front of your car, caused a problem with the IMA battery in the back of the car.
 

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Is it okay to drive with these lights on?
You'll likely be fine in the short term, like a week or two. Anything longer and the risk of low IMA battery voltage goes up, which could disable 12V system charging and leave you stranded.** If at any point the 12V battery warning light comes on, you'll be on borrowed time and need to get to your destination asap... Turn any unnecessary accessories OFF, don't stop for a burger, etc... If after the 12V warning light comes ON you see dash lights flicker and dim, or the EPS or ABS warning lights come on, failure is imminent...

Only the check engine light and IMA lights are on, no CEL or 12V battery light.
fyi, "CEL" stands for "check engine light"...

An interim quick-fix for the P1449-78 code - if you can successfully reset the system with your #18 fuse pull or 12V neg cable pull - is to start the engine, keep it in neutral, and rev the engine to about 3000-3500 RPM and hold it there as the BAT gauge re-populates. You might be able to get more charge into the pack that way. Just keep revving until the BAT gauge jumps to the top (or 19th bar, one from top)...

** One alternative to avert potential 12V charging failure, is to disable the IMA pack and remove connectors to the battery computer 'on the left'. I'm not sure if just turning the pack switch OFF or not, at this point, can avert future 12V charging failure. I don't think it would. I think you'd need to open up the whole back compartment and pull those connectors on the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for your response. I'm wondering if either purchasing a hybrid battery charger (and discharger) is necessary at this point, and if there is a more cost effective way to revive the hybrid battery that is still safe?

Thanks again!
Paula
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I should add that a local hybrid battery store quoted me $450 to charge/discharge my hybrid battery and install the wiring harness for the charger. I can purchase a mid-level kit to do it myself for approximately $400. They state that there isn't a guarantee that the life of the battery will be extended but could give it approximately 1-3 years of prolonged life. There is a YT instructional video that shows someone doing it themselves with about $100 - $150 worth of equipment from Bar Harbor Freight. I'm just not sure about the safety of that and the battery itself is pretty heavy.
 

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^ $450 seems really steep to me for this work, or rather, not necessarily for "the work," but considering the iffy probability of success and chances that you end up pissing away $450. Much better to buy a charger/discharger, even if it's for a few hundred dollars, take a few hours to read-up on how to install/perform the operation, and do it yourself. Because, then you'll still have the device and will be able to do it again when it's necessary - which it will be.**

There's countless threads around here about 'grid charging/discharging', 'buying a grid charger'. People ask these questions all the time, and other people answer those questions all the time, though more so in the past. It's all been said.

I don't have a link to a 'go-to' thread, maybe someone else will chime-in with one or two suggestions...

** Thought of one exception to this: IF one really doesn't have the time, skill, ability etc. to do any of this, then paying a garage $450 to do it might be worth it - if that price included the right to come back to the garage and have the pack grid charged/discharged again, any time.
 

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^ $450 seems really steep to me for this work, or rather, not necessarily for "the work," but considering the iffy probability of success and chances that you end up pissing away $450. Much better to buy a charger/discharger, even if it's for a few hundred dollars, take a few hours to read-up on how to install/perform the operation, and do it yourself. Because, then you'll still have the device and will be able to do it again when it's necessary - which it will be.**

There's countless threads around here about 'grid charging/discharging', 'buying a grid charger'. People ask these questions all the time, and other people answer those questions all the time, though more so in the past. It's all been said.

I don't have a link to a 'go-to' thread, maybe someone else will chime-in with one or two suggestions...

** Thought of one exception to this: IF one really doesn't have the time, skill, ability etc. to do any of this, then paying a garage $450 to do it might be worth it - if that price included the right to come back to the garage and have the pack grid charged/discharged again, any time.
I just returned from working on the issue. I pulled fuse 18 and while the IMA light didn't come back on, the CEL did. I decided to rev the engine in idle and drive it to see if the battery would recharge, and it did fully. The charger light showed bars indicating that it was charging and as soon as the battery was 1/3 charged the assist light started to show bars light up. The auto-stop feature is working again. Not sure why one light would not be triggered yet still have the CEL on?

Also, while I was pulling the fuse I noticed a 30 amp fuse dangling to some tied wires and two sockets hanging. Maybe the previous owner had a charging system installed?

Thank you!
Paula
 

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The 30 amp fuse wouldn't have anything to do with a charging system, at least not for the pack...

Sounds like you've bought yourself some breathing room. I don't know why the CEL would still be ON - maybe your IMA code was cleared but you've got some other, non-IMA related code? You could probably have someone at an autoparts store hook-up a scanner and read the code for you, or you can buy an OBDII scanner pretty cheap (like around $20), or you can 'blink' the codes for free, following methods described at this link: Misc. RESETS
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've gotten the blink codes before and know how to do that. Do you know what the two hanging sockets are for? They look like something plugs or twists into them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not sure why the photos are so large, but in the second picture you'll see one of the 10 amp fuses, I think there's another one that's 30 amps.
 
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