[WBMartens]

I'm having a very weird starting issue. It might be that I just have a 12 volt battery that has failed before its warranty has run out, but something is telling me this issue (please watch this 3 minute video I put up on Vimeo... https://vimeo.com/124973946) has more to do with the car's software than it does with its hardware. I used to be able to rectify the issue (crank starting followed by 12V battery failure) by pulling the #5 fuse (the fuse for the IMA), waiting 30 to 60 seconds and reinstalling it or by disconnecting the 12 volt battery cables for 30 seconds and reconnecting them, but now it takes a half dozen or a dozen attempts at pulling fuses and pulling the cables to get a regular non-cranking start with no 12 volt battery failure (warning light illuminating). This car is not supposed to crank start. Operating normally, you turn the key, and the engine just turns on. There is no cranking. Now, the starter is engaged, and the engine cranks to start. The problem with this is that the 12 volt battery dash warning light illuminates, and, as I found out the hard way once, all power for the car is redirected away from the electric motor battery pack to the 12 volt battery, and the car quickly drains the 12 volt battery, loses all power and shuts down completely. A jump start will get it going again very quickly, which leads me to believe this is a software issue, not a failing 12 volt battery issue. Has anyone ever encountered this problem, and does anyone have a better solution they can share with me? If so, please post your comments here.

 

[freezin4]

Hi William,

The experts will chime in soon, so be ready to answer what the voltage reads on the battery. There are voltmeters available at WalMart or Autozone which plug in the cigarette lighter. A reading on that would be helpful.

After eliminating bad 12V battery, I would check all the ground straps to make sure they are all in perfect shape. (Or just replace, since they have 122K miles on them.)

Maybe check to see if there are any OBD2 pending codes, but do this after the top two issues are sorted.

 

[Willie Williford]

Check your earlier post for a good answer.

Willie

 

[AbCaRed00]

checked battery fluid level or cleaned the posts?

If you want to do it yourself D-I-Y vs. take it to a shop, for starts and for cheap:

Looks like an original Honda battery, could it be _the_ original*? Have you popped the cover off over the caps to check the fluid level over the plates?[looks like a bit of battery acid? by cell#5 seen in very first part of video]. Use distilled water to top up level or consider a new one*. [lots of choices]
You may as well clean/brush the posts and terminals with a battery post cleaning tool to shine them up and help to assist charging.]
fwiw: a short time ago, 10.6V is the point where the radio shut down playing with engine off, and then needed to boost [no crank].

 

[ericbecky]

Willie is right.
Head over to Covina and talk to Scott and his crew.
Top notch independent mechanics with deep hybrid knowledge.

 

[KLR3CYL]

I have LM at his phone number at the end of the video.

Waiting for a call back. Call me @ 909-605-3810.

Probably a bad 12v battery, voltage too low to fire the contractor to the hybrid battery or the switch is off to the hybrid battery if the grid charger was just installed.

Scott

 

[freezin4]

...... or the switch is off to the hybrid battery if the grid charger was just installed.

I thought of that too, but wouldn't that set off the IMA light on the dash too? Maybe CVT is different.