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Discussion Starter #1
Started my 2010 Insight (82K miles) this morning and the ABS, Brake, and VSA warning lights all came on at once. Brakes feel normal when I press the pedal. Was able to drive a few miles without issue. Not sure if this is a legit issue or just a sensor gone bad. Anyone ever have this issue before?

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
thinking it may be the 12v battery based on things google provides. have not had that replaced before but the car has 82k in a warm climate. have noticed a decline in fuel efficiency as well.
 

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Welcome aboard. :)

Yes, it could be signs of a bad starter battery. Are you able to check the odb2 port for codes? Is there an auto parts store near you that can check for error codes? You may have a frozen shaft or pump in the braking unit. Its constantly working doing self checks, circulating fluid inside and function when it senses traction issues, possible skidding or braking issues.

This box is located on the passenger side front shock tower under the hood.
 

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I changed the 12V battery and that seemed to take care of the issue...so I thought. After about 2 weeks the warning lights came back, but it is intermittent. For example, I'll start it and the warning lights will come on and I'll drive to work. When I leave work, once I put the car in drive the warning lights go away. They stay off for about a week, then what appears to be randomly they come back on. I haven't been able to get codes read for them as they turn off when I've planned to go. Currently they are back on so I'll try and go over lunch assuming they don't turn off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As I've thought more about when these warning lights come on, I do notice a pattern. When I start the car after I've driven with headlights on, that tends to be when the warning lights come on. Not every time, but most often that is the case, especially the the headlights were on for an extended period of time (more than 30min). Not sure what that might mean but I'm still thinking this is somehow battery related...IMA battery.
 

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Have the 12V battery "Load Tested". Sounds like it is on it's last leg.

Willie
 

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New batteries can be bad too.
Typically one of the 6 cells is bad and loses charge, so it is empty while the 5 others are full and prevent it from being charged.
If you load the battery the bad cell reverses and the voltage drops below 10 volt.

I got mine replaced under warranty and the replacement is hardly better than what came out.
I monitor the voltage (a setting on my UltraGauge) and it generally drops below 12V engine off.

Anyway, I second load testing the battery.
The procedure is simple. With the engine off put on high beams, low beams and the radio.
A fully charged battery could support that for half an hour, at the very least.
A bad battery will fail this test in a few minutes.
(best to run this test where you have a charger or another car and jumper cables just in case)

First to go is the radio. You will also get system warnings. The car won't start if you try it right away (!!!).
Shut off the radio and lights at the first sign of trouble, key off completely and wait a minute.
That allows the 12V battery to recoup enough to make the voltage rise above system warning level.

Key on and start the car. It will. I had this happen several times on my old battery.
Keep it running for a while to allow the battery to regain some strength.
Avoid power off loads from then on.

BTW. During AutoStop the IMA battery keeps feeding the 12V system; no need to fear load on that, but reducing load may prolong AutoStop because it depletes the IMA system less quickly.
 

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Anti sway, fishtail, skid. Unlike the other features it will let you have some fun, but it wont let you get that far sideways. It does this by alternating braking action to all 4 wheels. Interesting to experience. :cool:

What is VSA?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Didn't have a change to load test last night. Let's assume that the 12V "fails" the test and things start to turn off after a few minutes. What would that mean? Just that the 12V battery is bad or is there something else going on that is causing it either not to charge properly or causing it to be drained. Curious as to others thoughts.

Thanks for all the input!
 

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Just means its a bad bat. The insight cycles the battery where as most cars keep them charged to 14 volts. I go through a battery a year it seems, but I like loud music, lights and heavy ac use. :evil:
 

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This thread saved my butt today, thank you.

Finished up an oil change on my wife's 2010 Insight (about 58k miles) and while I was resetting the service indicator (something I've done several times without incident) I suddenly had Service Brakes, Service Air Bags and just about everything else flashing and the car would not start. When I locked the car up I noticed the lights were a bit dim. Pushing the lock button a second time the horn sounded pathetic - well it's always pathetic but it was way worse this time. Thought I'd managed to seriously fried something. Found this forum and this thread. Hooked the jumper cables up and she fired right up. Took the long way to the gas station to fill up and took the long way home to get a bit more charge. Everything is as it should be for now. Probably will need to replace the small battery soon.

Chuck
 

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Started my car up yesterday and got warning lights for Check Brake System, Check ABS, and Check VSA. Jumped the car, but that didn't seem to help.

Car is at Honda right now. I'll update when I have details.
 

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Yikes. Bad news.

Techs plugged it in and were pulling 61-1 & 52-1 codes. 61-1 indicates low battery voltage. Battery was replaced and car is still giving 52-1 code indicating a stuck motor in the ABS module.

Honda suggests replacing the ABS module which would run about $2200 with parts and labor.

Here's to hoping my extended warranty covers my ***.
 

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Did you ever have the brake fluid changed? The schedule is every 3 years regardless of miles. Reminds me that I should look and see when we last had that done....
It's also possible that you could just drive it around and this would clear up on it's own. But it is a good reminder that brake fluid flushes are much cheaper than an ABS module.
 

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I bought the car certified used in 2014 and had the brake fluid changed in June of 2016.

I've put about 20 miles on the car since all the warnings popped up and nothing has flashed off or disappeared.
 

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Is the extended warranty Honda Care or something else the dealer was selling?One of the advantages of buying Certified used is that you can put Honda Care on one.

Are there any symptoms to having an ABS module motor locked that you can feel?
 
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