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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi! I am new to this forum, don't know much about cars, and need some advice for my 2010 Insight with 164K miles. My car has been extremely reliable but I feel I am pushing my luck. I commute 2 hours a day for work and I am planning a road trip from MA to FL (1,400mi each way) next month. I have done the minimal amount of maintenance on my car and would like to get a check up before my next trip. However, I don't want to get ripped off at the mechanic by not having a clue about what should or needs to be repaired/replaced.
So far I have replaced the transmission fluid (90K) and I get regular oil changes. I also have had my front brakes replaced. That's it.
What do you think needs to be looked at on my car? What are the typical repairs you have done to your vehicle at this point?
Any and all insight is appreciated! Thanks!!
 

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If your last transmission fluid change was at 90k miles you absolutely need to do that again as soon as possible. You also want to change BOTH (there are 2) transmission fluid filters at the same time.

It is highly unlikely that the dealership is going to want to change the inner transmission pan filter, normally they only change the exterior filter. If you have an auto mechanic friend, or even someone who is just technically inclined, maybe they can help you with this? Are you someone who likes doing the work herself? We have tutorials on how to do this with pictures if you feel up to the job.

The parts should be about $90 including shipping, the fluid you get at the dealership.

At 160 K your spark plugs also need to be replaced but you can wait on those, I don't think they are going to leave you stranded somewhere.

Both of your air filters (cabin air filter and the engine air intake) are probably dirty and should be replaced.
 

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Has this Insight ever been to a Honda dealer*? Did you buy it new? Have you just completely ignored the MID maintenance minder?

*besides the obvious air bag recalls, the 2010 Insights have several software updates available that can only be done at a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did purchase the automobile brand new and pretty much all of the oil changes have been performed at the dealership. They had previously told me about the air filters but on my last oil change they said that everything was in great shape. I kind of doubted that but didn't question it because I was in a hurry.
I am not very handy with vehicles so I plan on taking it to a mechanic but I would like to know what to ask about not just blindly have him look at my vehicle and tell me to replace everything. I guess I am most worried about things that will leave me stranded or really damage the vehicle if neglected.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If your last transmission fluid change was at 90k miles you absolutely need to do that again as soon as possible. You also want to change BOTH (there are 2) transmission fluid filters at the same time.

It is highly unlikely that the dealership is going to want to change the inner transmission pan filter, normally they only change the exterior filter. If you have an auto mechanic friend, or even someone who is just technically inclined, maybe they can help you with this? Are you someone who likes doing the work herself? We have tutorials on how to do this with pictures if you feel up to the job.

The parts should be about $90 including shipping, the fluid you get at the dealership.

At 160 K your spark plugs also need to be replaced but you can wait on those, I don't think they are going to leave you stranded somewhere.

Both of your air filters (cabin air filter and the engine air intake) are probably dirty and should be replaced.
Thanks. I appreciate the help. What about belts? I looked at a maintenance schedule and it mentioned having belts checked.
 

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Inspect the belt. If any chunks are missing, or if there are more than 4 cracks per inch on the ribbed side, replace it.

Sam
 

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There is no timing belt, this engine has a chain. There is only one drive belt, I guess it really does not have a scheduled interva, just change if it shows wear. If you have been going to the dealer, I can't imagine they did not at least try to talk you into other things. Unless, as you say, you go in for an oil change and never have time for anything else.

Have you had the airbag recalls done?
 

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Coolant and Hoses:

Many roadside breakdowns are due to burst hoses and overheating. I've seen the telltale white cloud many times.

Replace the hoses and the coolant at the same time - makes sense. Honda coolant says 5 years or 60,000 miles.

While you are at it, I would replace the belt and keep the old one as a spare.

BTW - If you don't have AAA, this is a good time to get it. You can always cancel when you get back but it's good to have anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all of the advice. Now I don't feel completely clueless.
I am taking my car into the dealership for an oil change and will see what they recommend. Then I will bring it to my local mechanic and compare.
I appreciate all the help!
 

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If you are taking it to a local mech. ask them to check the water pump. It only takes a second to move the tensioner and take off the belt. Then you can spin the water pump and see if the bearing is still tight or if it is starting to have some side to side play. Not much play can turn into alot on a long road trip. Around that mileage was when the water pump went out on my car for the previous owner and they were on a road trip. Luckily though replacement is easy but the part (oem) can cost near $200. My best advice is to go onto a cheaper honda part websight light majestic honda or hondapartscheap. Put all the parts into a a shopping cart and print it out. Then go to local dealer and get them to price match. If are buying more than one part they will most likely match the prices and if you dont end up using the part its alot easier to return to them than an online dealer. And if they wont match find another close by that will. Good luck
 

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As a 1 week old 2010 98k mile owner myself , the dealer recommended belt, plugs,water pump. Looking at the belt it's ok for now, pump I'll replace when I hear some noise or see a leak. I forgot to look if the plugs ($20) are as easy as the belt ($30) and pump ($200) to replace. I looked at the cabin filter ($10) and knocked out some dirt. The previous owner kept all/most of the dealer service invoices and he did the right thing by it for the most part. I'll change the 2 transmission filters ($100) one day? This is all stuff I "can" do , I wouldn't mind paying another to do it, but it truly annoys me that they repeatedly got $70 to change the cabin filter. I can see $1k for them to do all I listed at ($400) in easy to get at parts.
 

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Take a look at the spark plug change how to sticky:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-discussions/21680-spark-plug-change-how.html

I don’t know what you mean by spark plugs ($20.) but you are sadly mistaken.
If you are unwilling to pay for the specified plug (and they are expensive) you are better off leaving them alone. By the way, there are 8 of them. On the plus side, there’s no timing belt.

Also, look at those invoices and count how many CVT fluid changes have been done. Plan on doing them every other oil change from now on. Use only Honda fluid.
 

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$20 each , x8 $160 Genuine Honda 12290-RBJ-003 Spark Plug (Dilfr6F11G) (Ngk): Spark Plugs

this video by a Saudi NGK importer is the biggest problem these days , counterfeit parts, be it in Hondas, or Boeing aircraft. The best reason o buy from a dealer or trusted source, Yet at ¼ the price it's hard not to go with a Denso which Toyota uses interchangeably or another GENUINE brand.
 

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SO,,,,,,Don't buy plugs in Russia or Saudi. That link sucks. Had a hell of a time closeing it.
 

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Interesting: heat range/ length ? I see it's a 3 cylinder, G1. true for the 4 2010?
InsightCentral.net - Encyclopedia - Honda Insight Iridium Spark Plugs
The Insight uses a new, iridium spark plug that is unique to this vehicle.

There are four different part numbers for the spark plugs, and each has the electrode aligned differently with the plug threads. This allows the orientation of the ground electrode in relation to the intake valve to be optimized for maximum economy and power, and optimum combustion efficiency.

Due to variations inherent to the manufacturing process, each engine's head will differ. After each head is manufactured, it is measured and the optimal spark plug for each cylinder in that engine is determined. This information is then stamped on the cylinder head.

Each spark plug has an identification mark (A, B, C or D) located on the top of the solid post terminal that is to be matched with the corresponding identification mark for each cylinder, as stamped on the cylinder head of the engine in question. The cylinder head marking location is shown below.

To ensure proper electrode position, only replace spark plugs with letter codes that match the stamping on the cylinder head. If the spark plugs are to be reused, they must be returned to the same cylinders.


 

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IIRR this discussion is about a G2, no indexed plugs.
 

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nedbal,
Did you read the spark plug thread I gave you a link to?
The gist on a couple of pages of that thread (that you should read!)
is that the 2nd generation Insight does not have indexed plugs. Having two per cylinder makes that mute.

By the way, we pulled perfectly clean usable plugs out of my wife's 2010 at 120k. They could easily go 150 or more.

The CVT fluid? Now that's something to obsess about.
 

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nedbal,
Did you read the spark plug thread I gave you a link to?
.

thanks for the kick

Honestly , I threw out the blurb above about seeing how easy the plugs were to get to and I stopped at page 1 of that thread where access was explained. Now I read the other 14 pages, There's a lot to learn here , and 2 weeks ago I didn't know squat about hybrids or barely knew there was something called a Insight. G1 G2 :?:

Now I see the plug codes pertain to indexing / gap direction (new to me ) . A few comments that Honda did not follow through on that based on plugs removed from G1 engines / smaller higher compression, may have some effect?

None of the pics of original plugs showed wear or erosion after 100k miles. Some had way more deposits than others from the same engine, yet still looking good and no signs of a major fuel/oil/spark problem,

Another blurb --- "The only thing is I torqued the new ones to 17 ft-lbs per this guide but I believe that's first gen. 2nd gen should have been 13 ft-lbs."" Now I've very lightly tightened plugs and relied on the boot to keep em from rotating out and never had a problem

A comment about checking valve clearance and that a service reminder comes on at 100k for that (at 98k now) On this note I bought a new 81 accord Hatchback. That most PIA car I ever owned and had a valve check like every 20k miles? I did it myself after some time and never saw any wear, Now this Insight I recall something on a valve check at X miles in the service book. None of the invoices I have mention valve check, yet I see 2 new bolts on the left side of the valve cover? no mention in the service invoices 'I have.

The only thing that annoys me on mine after 200 miles sometimes doing 55 to 70 for 30 minuets a day the “avg speed” is like 15 mph. The battery was changed out 1st thing, resetting all. It is slowly creeping up. ½ of my 60 miles a day is in New York City traffic so this avg must be over a really long period

thanks for reading to the end
 

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In 2012 Honda used a low friction piston ring. Those owners can have fouled plugs. Honda issued a service bulletin and an extended warranty. (They actually have to tear down the engine to fix) We even suggested to one member he put his bad ones back and go to the dealer. Those threads do not apply to your model year, they are about burning oil. It’s amazing what you can learn on a forum.
For a 2010, the main thing you might not know about is a series of software updates our cars had available. The last one came with a letter from Honda so it may have been done to your car considering how much dealer service the previous owner had. The first three were available, but members had mixed results getting them applied. Dealers never did them unless you asked or presented with a complaint they addressed. We have never figured out if the fourth, when applied, would also do the first three if not done already.

They did this:
Made auto stop last longer.
Smoothed out the CVT engagement.
Changed how the IMA handled hill climbing.

The last was also for the IMA, designed to increase it’s health and ultimate life.

Any software update needs to be done in the service area, by actually connnecting the Insight to the Honda computer. A service writer cannot tell you if they have been done. (Well maybe the last one since it was a campaign with a letter to owners).

Bet you never expected to have a care that needed software updates! Welcome to the future.
 
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