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Hi, I'm new here, so I am hoping I'm doing the right thing.

I just got a 2011 Honda Insight a few days ago. :D I was wondering if anyone could share their experiences/pictures installing a double-din aftermarket bluetooth screen stereo on a 2011 (around that year range) Insight Base model. I have never done a stereo install myself, but I would love to learn. I have reason to believe that I have everything I require (harnesses, antenna, etc). I have seen a couple of related posts on this matter, but they didn't go into much detail.

It also came with a backup camera, which I know is another task entirely, so if anyone has had any experience with that, I'd love to know.

If you've done it before, do you have tips? Perhaps some links to past discussions? I am getting a few conflicting pointers (one example being whether to disconnect the battery or not before working).
 

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I have found crutchfield.com to be a great resource. If you buy stuff from them, even if just adapter harnesses or speakers, they will likely be willing to give you their installation guides. These guides give very detailed instructions, even to the detail of where clips are located so you know where to pry, etc. They also sell adapter harnesses so that you don't have to do any soldering to adapt an aftermarket stereo to a factory harness, and adapter harnesses for speakers.

They will also be able to confirm whether there is enough room 'behind/forward of' the dash for an aftermarket stereo to fit in a particular vehicle.
 

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I just upgraded my base radio to a pioneer single DIN because I had it laying around. Now some may disagree but the first thing I did after the head unit , but I installed the missing rear speakers, it gave more of a full feeling to the sound. And crutchfield is a great source for finding speakers that will fit. I went with some in expensive kenwood coaxial's and they provide some of the missing highs , BTW the tweeter covers on the dash are just like the rear doors, empty.
I plan to replace the front door speakers with matching kenwoods when funds are available.
I believe firmly in having a matched system as for power. I do my best to assure the speakers can handle all the amp feeding them can offer so if I crank it all the way up there is little distortion. So right now I have to rear balance my system as the cheap factor speakers can not handle my receiver .

I like rock and modern country so adding a sub was a priority. And I realize there is concern about the DC supply in the hybrid. I have been working in the field of electronics all my life , and I'm 50 something. I installed my first car stereo back when I was 15 I think. Any way I did a lot of research and with the general consensus of there being approx 70 amps of 12V DC to use I went conservative installing a 10" sub in a sealed box, the sub is a kicker comp SVC rated at 150W RMS driven by an Alpine 150W RMS amp which has it's own fuse of 30 amp so there should never be an issue of drawing too much from the DC/DC converter. I have had no issues with power draw, at night with headlights on , AC on full , some deep sub music and no signs of flickering etc.

I ran the power feed from the amp directly to the 12V out of the converter . Which is electrically the same point as the battery , except the loss from the battery cable, so running the cable to the battery IMO just makes no sense unless you do not feel safe going under the can that hides the scary voltages LOL , but in all seriousness you should not attempt anything you do not feel comfortable doing.

I'll post some pics . And I live in Dallas area and have no problems assisting anyone who needs help.
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I just upgraded my base radio to a pioneer single DIN because I had it laying around. Now some may disagree but the first thing I did after the head unit , but I installed the missing rear speakers, it gave more of a full feeling to the sound. And crutchfield is a great source for finding speakers that will fit. I went with some in expensive kenwood coaxial's and they provide some of the missing highs , BTW the tweeter covers on the dash are just like the rear doors, empty.
I plan to replace the front door speakers with matching kenwoods when funds are available.
I believe firmly in having a matched system as for power. I do my best to assure the speakers can handle all the amp feeding them can offer so if I crank it all the way up there is little distortion. So right now I have to rear balance my system as the cheap factor speakers can not handle my receiver .

I like rock and modern country so adding a sub was a priority. And I realize there is concern about the DC supply in the hybrid. I have been working in the field of electronics all my life , and I'm 50 something. I installed my first car stereo back when I was 15 I think. Any way I did a lot of research and with the general consensus of there being approx 70 amps of 12V DC to use I went conservative installing a 10" sub in a sealed box, the sub is a kicker comp SVC rated at 150W RMS driven by an Alpine 150W RMS amp which has it's own fuse of 30 amp so there should never be an issue of drawing too much from the DC/DC converter. I have had no issues with power draw, at night with headlights on , AC on full , some deep sub music and no signs of flickering etc.

I ran the power feed from the amp directly to the 12V out of the converter . Which is electrically the same point as the battery , except the loss from the battery cable, so running the cable to the battery IMO just makes no sense unless you do not feel safe going under the can that hides the scary voltages LOL , but in all seriousness you should not attempt anything you do not feel comfortable doing.

I'll post some pics . And I live in Dallas area and have no problems assisting anyone who needs help.
View attachment 83345 View attachment 83346 View attachment 83347
Loved the floor cover, niceeeeeeeeeeeeee! how much and where did you buy it? Im only using universal floor mat that I cut to shape.
 
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