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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys. I've finally been able to get around to this. This was a dreaded job, but to my surprise it went incredibly smoothe. Total time for disconnection, removal, reinstall, reconnect, fluid fill was just under ten hours. We pulled the engine from above although apparently it can be pulled from the bottom. I'll give a more detailed post on this if anyone is interested.

I've run into one problem, but I'm hoping it's not a huge ordeal. When I fired it up it idle perfectly for about two second. Then again for two more seconds. Found a fuel leak (don't get me started on these stupidly designed fuel lines). Replaced fuel line fired it up and it idled ok for a second. Tried again and the thing was "clicking" and being goofy like the battery was dead (I hadn't fully charged the battery yet so it makes sense). Tried to jump it and the thing was making this grinding sound coming from what I believe is the starter. I don't see how it could be the two plates that meet up at the bell housing. There are 6 10mm boots and I double checked that they were installed properly. Hand cranking the engine was not hard and made no audible signs of trouble. The starter is easy to get to. Four bolts holding the air box down, the wire connecting to the MAF sensor (I think) and then you're to the starter.

What do you all think?

BJ
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok guys, I need some help desperately as we are down to one car and this one is my last hope! Car has sat for about two months. I did NOT turn off the IMA in the trunk so I'm assuming it's drained. Yesterday I swapped out the 2012 engine and installed the 2010. I turned off the IMA before I started the swap as well as removed the 12v battery. Hooked everything up as it should be. Went to start it and it purred for a couple of seconds and died out. Did that a couple of times and hasn't started since. It's giving me a real nasty metal on metal grinding sound from the starter. After a couple of seconds it will start to crank the engine but it won't start. When I turn the key to the "on" position it will give me this rapid clicking noise from the dash and from what I can tell its near the fuses under the steering wheel near the door. There was another loud clicking noise like that from a relay that sits next to the fender beside the 12v battery. I removed the relay and that clicking stopped. I've gone under and checked a whole bunch of fuses that would seem obvious culprits but none are blown. I'm simply not familiar with these hybrids. I can get my way around a normal gas engine just fine but this thing has so many electrical components and sensors I really don't know what to do.

Is there a reset on the ima? Reason I ask is because three nights ago I rolled the car into the carport to get ready for the engine swap. Out of curiosity I tried starting it and it fired up immediately then stalled out. Point is, it would have fired off of the IMA then right?

Please, I seriously need help with this. I'm near McMinnville, Oregon if someone happens to be in the area and wants to try and assist.

BJ
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok another update:

If I go out and disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Reconnect. Clear the "c1555" code with my scan gauge, it will start and run for a second absolutely perfectly. Then die. If I just try to clear the code without disconnecting the battery it will NOT start. Now, I did the battery disconnect with the IMA off and it did NOT start. With the IMA on, when I clear the code, I can hear something engage in the trunk so I'm assuming it is sending signal to the IMA when I clear the code. That grinding noise has stopped. I'm guessing that was a fluke thing honestly. If the ima is off, it will just crank and crank and crank. I've got the 12v battery on the charger currently.

My scan gauge Cuba only recognize that there is a code so that "c1555" is basically telling me there's an error but it doesn't know what it is.

Any thoughts? I guess the good news is that the engine runs 😊

BJ
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok another update:

If I go out and disconnect the battery for a few seconds. Reconnect. Clear the "c1555" code with my scan gauge, it will start and run for a second absolutely perfectly. Then die. If I just try to clear the code without disconnecting the battery it will NOT start. Now, I did the battery disconnect with the IMA off and it did NOT start. With the IMA on, when I clear the code, I can hear something engage in the trunk so I'm assuming it is sending signal to the IMA when I clear the code. That grinding noise has stopped. I'm guessing that was a fluke thing honestly. If the ima is off, it will just crank and crank and crank. I've got the 12v battery on the charger currently.

My scan gauge Cuba only recognize that there is a code so that "c1555" is basically telling me there's an error but it doesn't know what it is.

Any thoughts? I guess the good news is that the engine runs 😊

BJ
 

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I'm a G1 guy. I've never even sat in a G2. But here is some general wrenching stuff to think about. When it starts, is it doing the silent start with the IMA or the cranking start from the 12V? (Could the grinding noise just be the 12V starter?) If it's the silent start, are you SURE it's actually running and not just the IMA spinning it? Does it "run" the same if the IMA is switched off? Does it "run" after you have moved the key from the Start position? Have you tried squirting some starting fluid in it? Have you looked at all of the fuses and relays that involve the fuel pump? Do you hear the fuel pump running? Does the G2 have a fuel pressure switch? Does it behave the same in P and N? It sounds like it's going to be OK once you figure out the electrical problem. Oh. I hate this idea. Any chance it was visited by mice while it was parked?

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm almost positive its actually running because my rpm goes up then drops off. It IS the silent start. Doesn't at all sound like a cranking engine. Starts just like it used to. I can't even get it to fire once it starts cranking. I have no clue about a fuel pressure switch. I haven't tried starter fluid. I will do that. I do hear the fuel pump engaging. Thank you for the reply!!!!

Bj
 

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caliber1;907777 It IS the silent start. Doesn't at all sound like a cranking engine. Starts just like it used to. I can't even get it to fire once it starts cranking. [/QUOTE said:
If you turn the IMA off it should crank with the 12V starter. Does it do this?

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, with IMA switched "off" the engine will crank with the 12v battery/starter. Check the fuel pump 15a fuse and it is still good.

BJ
 

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When it cranks with the 12V starter, does it still run for a couple of seconds and then shut down?

Sam
 

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This sounds like a fuel problem to me. Is there a chance the supply and return (if there is one) lines were reversed during the swap? Could a rubber hose be kinked? You might try disconnecting the supply line and see if you get fuel when it cranks over. Also, make sure the coil wires are connected.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've been wondering if my fuel lines got messed up some how. But I'm almost positive they are ok. I don't know what the gen 1 lines are like, but in this they are a hard molded plastic insulated by a typical flexible rubber exterior. I had to cut the hose off of the old engine in order to remove the line. Replaced with some high pressure fuel injection line. I'll check everything right now.

BJ
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Just went through and thoroughly checked my connections. Even compared the old TB to the new one to verify every port was connected to air/fuel lines. Started to pull the fuel supply line and gas started to spray out so I know it's getting fuel. Weird thing: did the battery disconnect. Started it and it ran for the second like it has been. Turned key to "0" position then tried again. Normally it would crank with the 12v battery now, but it started with the IMA for a split second then stopped. Did this a total of three times before the 12v battery tried with its starter. Still confused as to why the engine isn't firing.

BJ

When the IMA starts the engine, the motor is still running on gas like normal correct?
 

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No, it will not start when cranking with the 12v battery. It will only start with the IMA and then die.

BJ
OK, when you are starting it and it 'purrs for a couple seconds' the engine is not actually running. It's the initial inertia of the IMA motor spinning the engine. Much like if you take a ratchet and spin it fast, and it continues to spin around and around for a second or so. You need to start with the basics. Are you getting spark and fuel? Very first things you should check. When something goes wrong you should always start with the basics.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Whaaaaaaat????? So it's not running!?!?!

Ok, my mind is blown. So let me try and understand. The IMA the electric motor which is supposed to be enough to turn the engine to fire? So basically the second that the IMA system purrs is the time it should take to start the engine which is why it shuts back off?


Bj
 

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Whaaaaaaat????? So it's not running!?!?!

Ok, my mind is blown. So let me try and understand. The IMA the electric motor which is supposed to be enough to turn the engine to fire? So basically the second that the IMA system purrs is the time it should take to start the engine which is why it shuts back off?


Bj
The electric motor spins incredibly fast to spool the engine so it gets an instant start, and the motor introduces spark and fuel to get the engine to continue to run. If it's not getting fuel, or spark, the inertia of the engine will cause the engine to turn out for a second or two before it dies.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you guys! I appreciate the info. I'm a been to these things. I bought this car in March not expecting to have any issues. Oh well.

Update. I have spark. Did an old school test and got the engine to run (the actual gas engine from the 12v system). So, I think I've got a fuel issue. Looked and the injector plugs are in. All fuel lines are hooked up. I even switched out TB's because I new that my old one worked. Any ideas.

PS : I know I have spark because before I got it to fire, I accidentally shocked myself lol!

Bj
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got another weird thing for y'all. Stumbled across a video of a guy who when he turned his key (it was a Honda Civic 2007) he had a clicking coming from the dash by the fuse box. If he plugged in a scanning tool to his OBDII terminal, the clicking immediately stopped. So, I checked my car out and it's doing the exact same thing. Very confusing.

BJ
 

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Got another weird thing for y'all. Stumbled across a video of a guy who when he turned his key (it was a Honda Civic 2007) he had a clicking coming from the dash by the fuse box. If he plugged in a scanning tool to his OBDII terminal, the clicking immediately stopped. So, I checked my car out and it's doing the exact same thing. Very confusing.

BJ
Grab a helper, have him (or her) push the throttle to the floor and turn over the engine, while you spray starter fluid directly into the throttle body, does it run? Yes? You have a fuel issue. No? Spark issue.

You could also remove the injectors and still have them hooked up to fuel/power and turn it over and see if they spray fuel. I have a strong feeling you have a dead fuel pump, or a kinked line somewhere.
 

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@Balto - I definitely think it's a fuel issue. I've tried WOT by opening the butterfly valve and putting a screwdriver in there to hold it open. Then I checked for spark. Didn't see a visible spark, but I got shocked by putting my finger over the plug. Then I put a teensy bit of gas in the front four spark plug holes and it started up immediately for a second. And this time I know the actual engine fired and not just the electric motor spinning.

The fuel feed line from the tank has plenty of pressure. So I know for a fact that the pump is working. A buddy at work just mentioned that it could be an air lock in the fuel rail. Also, is there a fuse or relay that directly controls the fuel injectors? I've been reading on the main relays going bad but that seems to affect the actual fuel pump.

And remember, I'm getting that rapid clicking noise from the fuse box area under the dash until I plug in my scan gauge to the OBDII terminal. That is super weird.

I have a hunch I have a electrical issue causing the fuel issue. When I left for work this morning I saw that the 12v battery is now fully charged. I will keep researching this and see if I can find anything. Please feel free to chime in. At this point all ideas are more than welcome lol.

BJ
 
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