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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As you know the +30% simple resistor IMA current hack has proven very reliable over the years.
It's also relatively easy to install in our cars, and has been great for those seeking extra performance.
If you have a healthy pack, bigger fuses an/or lithium etc it's a no brainer for those 'on ramps' :)

To summarise, the fixed +30% current hack comprises 8 x 1k 0.25w 0.1% resistors installed so they affect the phase and mdm current sensors,
and a 1 x 240R 1w 0.1% resistor installed to affect the Battery current sensor.
The resistors basically reduce the levels of current that the cars computers see,
thereby causing the IMA system to increase the current proportionally to the level it expects to detect.

Ideally the hacks should be installed inside the MCM/BCM cases respectively to avoid harness hacking and for extra screening/reliability.

The single 240R resistor needed inside the BCM is easy to install and solder across the existing current sense resistors,
that's a two minute job for anyone with basic soldering skills.
It can be unsoldered in the same amount of time just as easily as well to turn the hack off.

The MCM resistors if installed inside the MCM are a lot more fiddly and easier to get wrong/short out etc.
So to this end BullDog and I are designing a little pcb that installs onto the back of the MCM pcb to greatly simplify the MCM part of the current hack install.
Six simple solder connections should be all that is required with the new PCB.
The pcb will have a 4 way dip switch so the MCM part of the hack can be turned on/off using the switches.

Attached is a draft pcb schematic for info, and my earlier pdf document about current hacking for those interested
in the idea in general terms, or who want plough their own furrow.
I also still have a few of the old hardwired current hack pcb's left for enthusiasts....
 

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Any thoughts on an all in one board? Bcm fooler with adjustability, bcm interceptor, current hack, imac&c. A nice header connector with pins or a small pigtail harness.
Each board with the adjustability needed for various setups.

Just my thoughts on how i would do one if i were able to create one myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's probably called 'Linsight' but may never be finished. :(

My efforts are the BCM replacer, BCM Fooler, Current Hacks, Voltage hacks, Ecm Fooler, Imac&c P&P, Obdiic&c, and of course the looming BCM Replacer. I think that's enough..

Of course if you want to pay me $15k i'll take a holiday from all the above and build you a bespoke one.. ;)
 

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Im content with what you currently offer. So the switchable current hack is still external?

And i was hoping for linsight as well. But you have available working products.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The old switchable current hack pcb is an external harness hack job.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Here are pcb pics of the internal MCM hack board..

We have ordered a few prototypes, and will have to see if it's possible to solder them onto the MCM pcb.

Trying to make them foolproof.. Or at least Insight owner proof. ;)
 

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I'd be down for purchasing one of these switchable kits. Would love to have a go fast button somewhere in the interior.

Do you have a before/after dyno chart, or showing 0-60 times or anything? This is a super cool idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I suggest look on my YT channel for my rolling road tests years ago..
 

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I went through all your youtube videos and can't seem to find it, do you know what you titled it? Would love to see the comparison. IMHO this is the coolest way to make an "Insight Si"
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Three level current hack pcb V1.2

Important Note.

We have changed the % current increase naming convention to better reflect the actual power/current changes..
The original was a bit misleading and underrated, it referred to the current detection reduction rather than the actual power increase.
So the old +30% is now the new +40% etc..

Explanation.
This is because a 30% reduction of the detected current caused by the resistors requires the system to increase power by 40% to get back to where it wants to be.

Imagine the car wants to see the value 100 amps.
We hack the current down by 30% so it only sees 70 amps.
For the system to get back to 100 amps (and where it wants to be) it has to increase the 70 amps it is detecting by 40% approx not 30%

Etc etc.

Ok onto the main point.

We have been playing around with different levels of MCM current hack based on the earlier work years ago.

V1.2 now gives us a three level current hack MCM pcb, which mimics behaviour on the forthcoming BCM Replacer board, which has two DIP switches giving three matching levels of current increase.

The DIP switches on the boards give different combinations of resistors to achieve three levels of current increase.

MCM Pcb

0) Switches off = Normal mode. 0% Increase
1) Switches 1-4 On = +20% mode (Mild tweak for 125A fuses)
2) Switches 5-8 On = +40% mode (Moderate tweak for (150A fuses)
3) Switches 1-8 On = +60% Insanity mode (Ony for the daring with (175A fuses)

BCM Replacer Pcb

0) Switches off = Normal mode. 0% Increase
1) Switch 1 On = +20% mode (Mild tweak for 125A fuses)
2) Switch 2 On = +40% mode (Moderate tweak for (150A fuses)
3) Switch 1 & 2 On = +60% Insanity mode (Ony for the daring with (175A fuses)

The most bang for your buck and reliable for Assist and Regen is the +40% mode...
I use it all the time with a good standard Nimh pack..

The maximum current hacked IMA power levels based on normal pack voltages are about..

+0% = OEM 10kw
+20% = 12kw
+40% = 14kw
+60% = 16kw

The Insanity +60% mode can trigger FSC (fail short circuit) errors in the IGBT during periods of maximum regen at low rpm.
These can be suppressed (at your own risk) with a wiring hack..

Of course any power hack stresses components, increases heat production etc etc
It's all at your own risk.. ;) If you blow your IGBT, motor, batteries then it's 'bad luck old chap'..

Even higher power can be achieved by increasing battery pack voltage and using voltage hacking. (Discussed elsewhere)
The IMA motor can produce over 20kw for short periods with a suitably hacked Lithium based system. :)
This gives you that full stump pulling, cvt flywheel spline stripping, drive shaft breaking experience.
(Touch wood I haven't broken anything yet.)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Test hack pcb showing fitting on MCM pcb

To quote Bulldog, 'Fits like a glove' ;)
 

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How hard would it be to make a version that's MINUS 20% (or 40 or whatever), 0% and +40%?

That would possibly be an alternative to using a calpod switch. You would get minimal regen and assist when you were highway cruising.
 

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How hard would it be to make a version that's MINUS 20% (or 40 or whatever), 0% and +40%?

That would possibly be an alternative to using a calpod switch. You would get minimal regen and assist when you were highway cruising.
Peter has a simple IMA boost device that basically does what you're talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Fixed +40% Current Hack PCB Information..


The Insight ZE1 fixed +40% MCM current hack PCB..

Explains installation and function.
Previews forthcoming multi level version... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Variable current hack PCBs

These new MCM current hack PCB's have the switched settings options. :)

Off

+20% Needs 125A fuse.

+40% Needs 150A fuse.

+XX% (+60%) Insanity mode. Needs 175A fuse.


The +60% mode is not officially supported.
It is reserved for track use with other mods to prevent IGBT overcurrent shutdown.
 

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Nice!


The +60% mode is not officially supported.
It is reserved for track use with other mods to prevent IGBT overcurrent shutdown.
Can you provide some general advise to prevent IGBT overcurrent shutdown?
 
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