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2019 LX Head Unit Upgrade

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Now I’ve gone and done it…I successfully replaced the stock Insight LX head unit with an aftermarket head unit! With advice from another Gen 3 Insight forum and a bunch of research and determination, I was able to complete the project rather painlessly. Hopefully my experience makes it even more simple for you!

Removing the stock unit is quite simple. The temperature controller below it pulls/pops out with a bit of finger manipulation to get “under” the edges. There is a YouTube video how to do this. Once the temperature controller is removed, 2 screws are exposed that hold the head unit in place and are easily accessible. Once they are removed the radio will snap out and provide access to remove the wired connectors.

For my install I used the following:
Axxess XSVI-1731-NAV
Axxess ASWC-1 / Axxess AXSWC
Metra 40-HD11
Metra 95-7812B Dash Kit
Install Bay 89-00-9031 ABS Plastic 12 X 12 X 1/8-Inch
Atoto F7 Head Unit (Pioneer DMH-130BT)

Axxess XSVI-1731-NAV This consists of a 24-pin harness, a 32-pin harness, & two 12-pin harnesses, a 6-volt step down converter, and a CANBUS.
The 24-pin harness will provide power for the head unit & speakers. All wiring from the aftermarket unit to the XSVI harness was/is well documented form both Metra & the head unit manufacturer. This harness will also retain the backup camera. HOWEVER, to get the camera working, you will need to splice and/or run wire. I followed the directions and even chatted with tech support, but the Green/Purple wire from the XSVI to the rear camera wire on the aftermarket unit was not supplying the required power (12v). It’s assumed that this is because the XSVI is programmed/wired for a Honda Civic, not an Insight. It should be noted, though, that there are many users on the Civic forums having rear camera issues…so maybe it’s just faulty programming in general. Regardless, the Civic users have found they could tap the reverse wire located under the steering wheel, but I was not able to locate it. My solution (as others had as well) was to tap the reverse light in the trunk, run it though the cabin (hidden under trim pieces, of course) and connect it to the aftermarket rear camera wire. PROBLEM SOLVED! The car is put in reverse, the backup light goes on, it sends power to the aftermarket unit camera wire, and the radio screen switches to the camera input…which requires another modification…but it’s only one wire and relatively easy to do.
The 32-pin harness will need to be re-pinned to provide the backup camera power. Despite the Civic & Insight stock head units being identical aside from the outer trim, the wiring for the XSVI harness that supplies power to turn on the backup camera is different on the Civic and Insight. On the 32-pin harness of the XSVI, pin #14 (Black wire) which is the ground wire for the backup camera needs to be re-pinned, re-routed, spliced (however you want to do it) to pin #30, which is the ground wire for the backup camera on the Insight. Once this wire is properly routed to pin #30, the backup camera will now have power when the car is put into Reverse and the radio screen will switch to the camera input and display the backup camera video input. Yay!
Unfortunately, the backup camera, left wired this way, will only show the dreaded “fish-eye” camera view. This can be changed, though. If you would like the “normal” view, you will need to pin, or splice (again, however you want to do it), a wire to pin #32 (CAMERA BIT1) on the 32-pin harness and ground it. I grounded it to the black wires on the 24-pin XSVI harness. Should you prefer the “top-down” view, you would instead pin, or splice, a wire to pin #31 (CAMERA BIT0) and ground it.
NOTE – you will only have one view – whichever you choose. You will not be able to switch views unless you manually wire a switch of some sort to both pin #31 & pin #32. That is beyond the scope of my post.

Axxess ASWC-1 or Axxess AXSWC These appear to be interchangeable and will retain steering wheel controls.
The ASWC-1 comes with a 12-pin harness as well as another CANBUS. However, if you have the XSVI-1731-NAV, you do NOT need to do any wiring/splicing of any kind. In fact, you will NOT use the wire harness that comes with the ASWC-1 at all. The XSVI has a pre-wired 12-pin harness for steering wheel controls that will plug into the ASWC-1 CANBUS instead. The 12-pin harnesses are clearly marked on the XSVI so pay attention to which 12-pin harness is plugged into which CANBUS. So, to be clear, the XSVI 12-pin harness labeled as “SWC” plugs into the CANBUS that comes with the ASWC-1. The other XSVI 12-pin harness plugs into the CANBUS that comes with the XSVI. While directions for programming the steering wheel controls can get convoluted (there are many tips and instructions on the Axxess site), I was able to figure it out and got them to work relatively easily.

EDIT 6/7/22 - I pulled the radio out to rerun a new microphone wire. Since it was apart I decided to reprogram the SWC (the channel up button didn't work smoothly because during the initial install I tried to "dual" program the button, which caused the issues). I hooked the SWC CANBUS to my computer with an Android USB cable, downloaded the Axxess updater from their site, and programed the CANBUS to the "Axxera" settings from the drop-down menu (the Axerra setting works perfectly for the Atoto head unit. Obviusly, choose Pioneer, JVC, Sony, etc... depending on the brand you have). Once I reconnected everything I went to the head unit's settings and was able to reprogram all the steering wheel controls...and they work flawlessly now!

Metra 40-HD11 Antenna adaptor
This is rather straight forward. Simply plug the adaptor ends into their corresponding plugs for the car antenna and the head unit. There is also a blue wire for power antennas. I read conflicting posts about the Insight requiring power for the antenna, so, to be safe I attached it to the head unit power antenna wire. I haven’t had any issues with receiving radio signals.

Axxess AX-TOYUSB USB To retain the function of the car’s factory USB port.
Again, this one is straight forward. Simply plug one end to the factory harness and the other to the head unit rear USB port and the Insight’s factory USB port will work to charge the phone as well as connect to Android Auto/ CarPlay.

Metra 95-7812B Dash Kit This is actually a dash install kit for the 2016+ Civic that I modded to fit the Insight.
The back side of the kit has 6 pins/tabs that will help hold it in place. However, I found it necessary to completely cut the 2 bottom tabs off as they did not directly line up with the holes for the Insight. The remaining 4 tabs I trimmed down thinner and longer to help fit into the Insight holes. The side brackets provide screw tabs that will match up with the Insight screws for the head unit and will hold it securely in place.
I also trimmed the opening for the head unit so that it could be mounted flush with the dash kit rather than be recessed half an inch. This worked perfectly for the Pioneer DMH-130BT that I initially purchased. However, the Atoto F7 that I eventually went with is not sized as a typical double din. Even though I trimmed the dash kit for a larger opening, the Atoto is still too wide to fit the opening for a flush mount - I had no choice but to mount it recessed. It looks OK but I preferred having it flush.
I may buy another dash kit…all the fiddling I did with the current one left it with a few scratches.

Install Bay 89-00-9031 ABS Plastic To fill in the bottom/sides of the Civic Dash Kit.
This is simply an 1/8 thick piece of black plastic. One side smooth and one side textured. I opted to have the textured side displayed in my install. The sheet of plastic is large enough to make 4 filler pieces in case you screw up like me (it took me three attempts to cut out a trim piece I was happy with). I have decent tools but perhaps a Dremel would be beneficial to cut more precisely. I didn’t trust my jig-saw so I cut it with a straight edge and razor. For simple straight cuts you can score it and snap it easily. But to make the “U” shape requires patience. I have enough left to try one last time, but I’m not entirely sure I would do any better without getting better tools.

Atoto F7 The Head Unit
As eluded to earlier, I originally purchased a Pioneer DMH-130BT. It seemed like a good deal but there wasn’t much information about it on-line. I was mistakenly led to believe it was Android Auto/CarPlay ready. It wasn’t. It instead had WebLink, which, I must say, REALLY sucks. I returned it and got the Atoto F7 from Amazon for an amazingly low $152! Since NONE of the Pioneers, Kenwoods, or Sonys I was interested in were available at Crutchfield with the features I wanted, I took a gamble on the Atoto. I accidently came across it on Amazon and was surprised by the low price, high features, and positive reviews. Android Auto/CarPlay, nice layout, customizable background and boot logo (mine displays the Honda logo), SD card support, USB support, front Line-in, RDS, etc…all for the low sale price of $152 – with free return if I didn’t like it.

I will not say that it will beat a name brand but it’s really good for what it is. The Pioneer may have sounded better but there’s no way to really compare them side by side at this point. Out of the box, the Atoto is a little flat but the 10 band EQ helps fix that. It powers the stock speakers just fine. Over-all I am pleased with it. It’s a definite upgrade over the stock unit, which was all I was looking for. I don’t care about upgrading the speakers or anything else (at this time). I’ll see how long the Atoto lasts.

Final thoughts
I had read Civic forums explaining how to incorporate the OEM/factory mic with the new head unit. There is an explanation here in the first post but it involves a Kenwood that uses a stereo mic. The one for the Atoto is a mono mic (as is the Pioneer). All my attempts to tap into the OEM mic did not work for me, which is fine. The aftermarket mic sounds good’s just finding a good place to mount it. I’m still experimenting with different locations. I currently have it positioned between the gear selector and cup holder.

I am attaching the pin-out diagram for the Insight 32-pin harness in case anyone has any thoughts about making the factory mic work. Also, I am attaching it because there is absolutely NOTHING available on-line for the Insight. Obtaining this diagram (an acquaintance works for Honda) helped me get the rear camera working, and could possibly help with other functions.

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